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Hi everyone. Sorry for the detailed post, but I'm looking for any possible ideas or help with a starting issue.

I have a 2013 Challenger V6, CPO. Toward the end of the factory warranty, about once a month it would crank (usually for about 15sec) but not start. Had it to the dealer but they could never replicate. I eventually learned that when it did happen, I could keep my foot off the brake and push the start button once for ACC, then a second time for RUN, then a third time with the brake pushed to start. It always starts this way without fail. The car has never died once it is running for more than a few seconds.

Out of warranty for a while now but this is happening more frequently, maybe 10% of the time, but not repeatedly. Doesn't matter if it is cold or hot, or whether it was last driven 10min ago or 10 days ago; seems to be no pattern. When it happens the car sometimes starts then dies a few seconds later, or sometimes it performs maybe a 15sec crank cycle without firing before giving up. After a failed crank cycle it will continue to fail on subsequent cranks in the same way. Need to cycle back to OFF to really try again.

It sounded to me a lot like the TIPM problem that other Chryslers and Dodges had where the fuel pump relay failed to operate, but I guess that isn't applicable to this car. Had it into the dealer again recently and they updated the software (said there was a possible issue that might apply), but the problem persists. There is never a check engine light, and they could not find any codes. I had already swapped the fuel pump and transmission relays, with no difference. The battery is original but sits at 12.6V, and all the battery and ground main connections appear clean and tight. I have not load tested the battery though.

So two days ago after work the car cranks for 15sec but won't start. Once I do the OFF/ACC/RUN/start trick I drive right to the dealer and leave it running. They scan it and find "B2122 ignition run circuit low", which is associated with the run relay. So now I have switched the run relay with the defroster relay.

The car ran great for many starts, then at lunch today it cranked for a moment then started and died. On subsequent start pushes it cranked for maybe 3sec and stopped. After doing an OFF/ACC/RUN cycle it started perfectly. Ran over to the Dodge dealer and they scanned the same B2122 code.

Has anyone seen a similar issue, or have any other troubleshooting ideas? I guess it could be a wiring or pin issue from the relay to the PCM or TIPM? I wouldn't think that it is a pushbutton/keyfob issue, but some postings indicate intermittent issues with the WIN module? Maybe something intermittent in the TIPM? In fact, where is the PCM; maybe I should unplug and plug various connectors and check voltage there?

Will be returning to the dealer soon but I'm afraid it will turn into a remove-and-replace sequence of expensive electronic modules until they finally bump into the solution?

Any ideas or help is appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I think you are right on the head with all the ideas you have.
I would pull the push button start and see if using the key fob alone makes anything change.


PCM is located under the wiper cowl on the left side (if facing the engine bay), just after the fender well.


If it ran well then stopped after you swapped relays, you may have a short or possibly a failing PCM. May also be an intermittent issue with the WIN module, check that fuse in the trunk (reference owner manual).
 

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Hi everyone. Sorry for the detailed post, but I'm looking for any possible ideas or help with a starting issue.

I have a 2013 Challenger V6, CPO. Toward the end of the factory warranty, about once a month it would crank (usually for about 15sec) but not start. Had it to the dealer but they could never replicate. I eventually learned that when it did happen, I could keep my foot off the brake and push the start button once for ACC, then a second time for RUN, then a third time with the brake pushed to start. It always starts this way without fail. The car has never died once it is running for more than a few seconds.

Out of warranty for a while now but this is happening more frequently, maybe 10% of the time, but not repeatedly. Doesn't matter if it is cold or hot, or whether it was last driven 10min ago or 10 days ago; seems to be no pattern. When it happens the car sometimes starts then dies a few seconds later, or sometimes it performs maybe a 15sec crank cycle without firing before giving up. After a failed crank cycle it will continue to fail on subsequent cranks in the same way. Need to cycle back to OFF to really try again.

It sounded to me a lot like the TIPM problem that other Chryslers and Dodges had where the fuel pump relay failed to operate, but I guess that isn't applicable to this car. Had it into the dealer again recently and they updated the software (said there was a possible issue that might apply), but the problem persists. There is never a check engine light, and they could not find any codes. I had already swapped the fuel pump and transmission relays, with no difference. The battery is original but sits at 12.6V, and all the battery and ground main connections appear clean and tight. I have not load tested the battery though.

So two days ago after work the car cranks for 15sec but won't start. Once I do the OFF/ACC/RUN/start trick I drive right to the dealer and leave it running. They scan it and find "B2122 ignition run circuit low", which is associated with the run relay. So now I have switched the run relay with the defroster relay.

The car ran great for many starts, then at lunch today it cranked for a moment then started and died. On subsequent start pushes it cranked for maybe 3sec and stopped. After doing an OFF/ACC/RUN cycle it started perfectly. Ran over to the Dodge dealer and they scanned the same B2122 code.

Has anyone seen a similar issue, or have any other troubleshooting ideas? I guess it could be a wiring or pin issue from the relay to the PCM or TIPM? I wouldn't think that it is a pushbutton/keyfob issue, but some postings indicate intermittent issues with the WIN module? Maybe something intermittent in the TIPM? In fact, where is the PCM; maybe I should unplug and plug various connectors and check voltage there?

Will be returning to the dealer soon but I'm afraid it will turn into a remove-and-replace sequence of expensive electronic modules until they finally bump into the solution?

Any ideas or help is appreciated. Thanks.
Hi pchall,

Sorry to hear about your ongoing concerns, please don't hesitate to reach out for further assistance during your dealership appointment if needed. We're happy to help!

Andrea
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 

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I have 2013 SRT with less than 10K miles on it. I've had it since July and it has been completely reliable. Last week I stopped for gas. Hit the start button and it turned over for 10 secs, no start. Tried about 6 more times. Made sure I was in park & pushing the brake but same result. Went into the gas station and upon returning I tried remote start. Nothing happened, didn't even honk. Tried the FOB in the start button, turned over but no start. So I got out the manual and called the Mopar emergency number. The operator was waiting for me to give her a credit card number for the tow truck and I said wait. I want to try one more time. It fired right up and hasn't happened again.

At the time the brake pedal didn't feel like it usually does and the motor seemed to sound like it was starting in the first second, then didn't. I took it too the dealer same day but nothing was wrong they say. Something was definately wrong. pchall, I'm printing your post, and throwing it in my glove box so I can try what you did if it continues to do this.
 

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Hi!

I have a 2013 Challenger SRT8 with 14,500 miles. I drove it yesterday to and from work and it ran fine.
Parked in the driveway and went inside for about 30 min. I came out to put her in the garage and she just cranked.....wouldn't start. I tries 3 or 4 times to start the car and just cranked. The 5th time I tried, it started and the engine lite came on. I put it the garage and read the trouble codes.
P3401,P3425,P3441,P3449,P0032,P0038,P0052,P0058. They were all listed 3 times.* I tried to start it a few times since and it starts fine but the engine light is still lit. I'm afraid to take it out because I don't want to get stuck somewhere.

This has happened 4 more times since then over a 10 month period.


Dealer called today. They said that the T.I.P.M. (Totally Integrated Power Module) is bad. They cleared the codes and U1108 kept coming up. The new part will be in on Friday, I should have the car back Monday. Hope that's it!
 

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I have a 2014 R/T that's been doing same thing for some time now. Happens 5-6 times a week Starts then dies . Do the off/acc/run cycle without the foot on the brake Then it will start. what's strange is when it dies the brake pedal will not push down and when I mash on it I can hear Something like a metal rod clicking and that sound is coming from inside the dash just to the left of the glove compartment
 

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I have a 2014 R/T that's been doing same thing for some time now. Happens 5-6 times a week Starts then dies . Do the off/acc/run cycle without the foot on the brake Then it will start. what's strange is when it dies the brake pedal will not push down and when I mash on it I can hear Something like a metal rod clicking and that sound is coming from inside the dash just to the left of the glove compartment
Hi R.E.M.,

This is not what we hope to hear from our customers. It is important to us that you are enjoying your ride. We recognize that this time, you are sharing your concerns for feedback from the other forum members. However, if you do wish to visit the dealer for further assistance, feel free to reach out and send us a private message.

Julie
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 

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Hello,
I have a 2015 SXT with 30K miles on it. For the past year, I have been having the same issue. I attempt to start it "normally" and it doesn't start...no clicks or anything else, but will have different lights that occur,(never the same ones) accessory, brake, check engine, ABS... Usually, I can Do the off/acc/run cycle without the foot on the brake Then it will start. But this failure does happen 5-6 times per week. I have had it in to the dealer over the last year several times, they cannot duplicate it and no codes show up. The did an "update" once but it did not help. My auto start from the fob is also temperamental..50/50). I just had it to the dealer because the battery died. They replaced it as well as the fob batteries. "Ok, all fixed, that must be what it was." I am thinking to myself, yep, sure. The day after, I went to start my car and guess what? Yep, it did it again. My dealer service rep doesn't know what to do.."it doesn't throw any codes." I am at my wits end and am considering trading it out. So if anyone has any ideas, please speak up!!
 

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Just in to the dealer again...fault codes UO402,U11C3,P1DDD2;U11C2;UO101
Replaced PRNDL Assembly and the shifter assembly. "Check and found vehicle is starting properly now".....Nope, got in the car the next morning and it is doing the same thing. One other thing it is doing..approx half of the days that it won't start, the car will not lock by the fob when I get to my destination. Still needing ideas!
 

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I had this problem months ago but just one time. Then it happened again yesterday. In between times I learned something that may help some others with the same problem. A friend that has a Ford with a key FOB told me that sometimes it will forget where it's at and that if I lock the doors with the FOB, wait a few seconds then unlock the doors with the FOB, that it will be reset and work just fine. So yesterday I tried that and the car started right up. Hope this helps someone.
 

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It is FIXED!!!! Yes, I just brought mine in AGAIN, and told them to fix it or keep it. I told them to change the TIPM and while they were at it...just change out the fob (they previously just changed the batteries) I was sick of all of the problems. Well, after months of cost (theirs, as I am under warranty)...my car is now without problems! I feel like it was probably the fob all along.
 
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