As a tack on to what has already been written-
The relative volume of injection with water/meth is going to change your IATs, EGRs and AFR readings.
Depending on where, when, and how much w/m or straight meth you’re injecting, a couple of things could be happening.
You should be able to pull about 650ish from that setup, if you have no knock, your IATs are low enough and/or tuned for, and you have sufficient fueling.
1) You’re running out of fuel, getting STKN, and it’s recording the data for LTKN table adjustments.
The added heat is asking for more fuel to cool it, not getting enough at that end with that temperature, and it’s pulling timing (looks like 5-6 degrees worth).
Solution: fuel system upgrade
2) Too much injection with the water/meth
Depending on how this is set up, it’s possible you’re putting in too much, and quenching some ignition. It seems unlikely, but you need to figure out how much in percentage ratio you’re injecting against fuel. More than .6/1 (60%,) and you’re going way too hard in the paint on injection.
Solution: tune your water/meth injection.
3) Too little injection with the water/meth
Run the calcs, see what you’re putting in. If it’s less than .2/1 (20%) at WOT/max boost, you’re not injecting enough. This can cause you to pull timing, which will show up as a loss of power under confirmed boost numbers.
Solution: check logs, run injection calcs for w/m, and add in the appropriate amount. Make sure you know your AFR numbers for the fluid being injected. Have it re-tuned as needed.
4) Some combination of the above.
KB says that BAP is good to 320L/HR, and the 21V is good to 401L/HR (“around” the “750” whp mark)
As that works out to about 80% of 750... it is going to be fuel limited on the pump at around 600 hp... which is exactly what you saw at 10 lbs. pushing it harder just leaned on the w/m injector for extra fueling from the methanol, and it looks like it was insufficient to prevent lean condition knock, resulting in about 5-6 degrees of reduced “safe” timing... or roughly 40-42 hp. Which you saw on the dyno.
Recommendations:
Time to do the fuel system. You can upgrade the BAP, and extend it a bit to that 13 lbs, but probably not much more (maybe 15 max if the numbers hold true... puts you at 700ish.)
All else being equal, sufficient octane should get you there, but may not off pump gas.
My math on that follows:
If timing is unchanged, and if running stock compression.
93 gets you 8
96 gets you 10
99 gets you 12
103.5 gets you 15
You need to mitigate additional heat at 15 lbs, which is likely to be a substantial increase by the time it hits the cylinders.
Which means you need effective octane preferably above 105.
Your w/m injector should be doing that already if it’s within the operating range it needs to be. Try a mix that is .5 lbs per lb of fuel. Run the numbers, and adjust accordingly.
If you do that and the BAP upgrade, you may see some results there.
Keep in mind- I’ve been researching this same issue for a year, but I am not an expert or a mechanic- your tax dollars send me out of airplanes to do things that are accomplishable with a tenth grade reading level and reduced concern for one’s own safety, so this is not my forte. I would ask someone you trust to not blow up your engine to check my math, check your logs, and go from there.
But if I ever see you later at a car meet, I’ve got your choice of two beers or ten bucks on it being the fuel system being maxed out and the w/m mixture not making up the additional needed points on AFR.
New BAP at 21v, w/m adjustment, and a new tune to tie it together.
Cheers,
Chuck
ETA- running 100% methanol at more push might temporarily cover the issue, but won’t fix it. Bet it will come out as higher than anticipated EGRs, and the relatively rapid failure of the system- snow isn’t built to take full-time 100% methanol for extended use. 50/50 is fine, but 100% will eat the rubber on it much faster if I recall what I think I know- I’d double check that with them, but I bet you will have to replace some parts on their system to keep it from corroding connectors and tubes. Part of the reason other systems have different hoses from the start.
You will also be riding the line, so to speak, on detonation if your CR is still even close to stock because it will still be likely you will be lean on actual gas, and will end up with too much meth covering it up until it doesn’t.
