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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve tried to get educated on this over the last six months before posting random questions. “Asked and answered” rebukes from college coming back in mind. So far, nothing specifically seems to cover some of the issues that I keep coming up with, so I hope those in the know will bear with me and excuse the ignorance now displayed (further displayed?)

I have read a great deal on the issues of running forced induction on stock pistons. The issue seems to be with piston clearance and ring gap responding poorly to heat, and detonation from running boost in a high CR engine configuration.

My basic assumptions above, and with KB running 15+ of boost at the drags on a stock block with race gas informs it to a point, are that if

1) cylinder temperatures are controlled,
2) pre-ignition and detonation are controlled, and
3) the engine is sufficiently cooled

that if the above conditions exist, boost on a stock bottom end can be increased well above 8 lbs until other limiting factors occur (such as insufficient fuel delivery and injection, drivetrain, etc.)

Now, those are the baseline assumptions based on research- it doesn’t mean they are correct, or that I didn’t miss something, but it begs some of the following questions that I haven’t found definitive answers to in researching water/meth tuning on the 6.4.

A research question to this point: will water/methanol injection pre-blower accomplish any or all of the three line items listed above?

Given a stock 6.4 motor, a 2.8LC Kenne Bell complete kit, a dual progressive, boost referencing water/methanol kit from Alky Control, and a constantly available supply of 50/50 water/meth mix,

1) Can the stock motor be safely run with more boost?
2) How much?
3) Under what conditions (strip only and swap tune/pulley back for street, full time?)
4) How will this affect longevity?
5) Beyond the obvious of “is it a good idea to tune for w/m,” are there other concerns?
6) Can more timing be added?
7) How much?
8) Can either effect be combined in a manner that is more ‘safe’ for the overall longevity of the engine?

Research questions:
1) Do I have to run a race gas blend or booster, or will w/m provide the intended octane boost sufficiently on demand?
2) How much effect can be expect with the given components?
3) What are those effects?

12 month endstate:
1) Get up to what the stock drivetrain will handle for a year or two of daily driving, and 10-15 days at the strip a year.
2) Keep it streetable. Not looking for 700+ full time rwhp. Looking to have a race tune and keep it at stock boost with a tune and pulley swap, and not blow up the engine.
3) Prep for the addition of 148mm throttle body, injectors (80 lbs?), and competition BAP.
4) Keep the engine together until funds permit stroking it to a 426.
5) Get accustomed to the current HP levels, and work from there.

For those that have successfully tuned for water/methanol injection, did it support your goals and objectives, were they similar, and what was/has been your experience?

I understand- water/meth is voodoo, don’t tune for it, etc. Let’s assume I accept that risk and have funds set aside for a new motor if needs be. I don’t want that outcome, but assume the risk is accepted. Assume I understand the potential for damaged rotors in the supercharger, and that I’m prepared to accept that risk, whether it’s pitting with 100% methanol or washed out bearings.

The bottom line is, I’m asking those that have tuned for it what the results were or are, and what I could expect. I’m also asking if anyone has successfully done this with an email tuner, and what that process entailed. For reference, I’m using a trinity 2 when I get home, but do not currently have logs to review.

This is one part of a progressive (no pun intended) build that is taking shape over several years and in between deployments. Hoping to not have to swap pistons or a short block until I get back to the lower 48, as the shipping cost adds more than 20% to the basic price of parts. Next large shipping item is probably going to be a driveshaft, and axles to follow. Waiting to do the rest of the motor and transmission later, and trying to keep them together for two seasons and some daily driving off and on.

Hope it makes sense, and hoping some folks out there have some experience with this. The common wisdom seems to be “don’t,” but if we all followed the common wisdom, we probably wouldn’t be driving these things in the first place.>:)

Thanks,

Chuck
 
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