Is there any chance that you can powder coat these in silver? Regardless, I'm interested in a set, silver or black. Can you PM me please when they're available?:rocker:
Unable to adjust rear camber?
I just got new tires on my 09 R/T, and I had them do an alignment as well. The shop told me everything turned out great, but the rear camber cant be adjusted or something? Idk anything about this sort of stuff, the drive train in most cars I can disassemble and reassemble like blindfolded, but tire balance and alignment I know nothing about.
What did the shop mean by "they cant adjust rear camber"? Attached is the sheet they gave me, is this good/bad I really have no idea with this stuff.
I've googled some stuff on it, and most problems with camber come from lowering the car I guess... which mine is not.
Any information or help would be much appreciated!
What did the shop mean by "they cant adjust rear camber"? Attached is the sheet they gave me, is this good/bad I really have no idea with this stuff.
I've googled some stuff on it, and most problems with camber come from lowering the car I guess... which mine is not.
Any information or help would be much appreciated!
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Yes no problem. I will have a set powdercoated in silver and PM you when they are ready.
These look good. But my concern is with the adjustment bolts bending under stress (I like going around corners). What guarantee can you give me that this won't happen to me again, because I had this happen with a set of adjustable camber arms that I bought for my Speed3. I bent one of them at the adjustment point while running The Dragon.Here are pictures of the Rear Adjustable control arms. We will be offering 3 colors. red, orange, black. Next up we are working on a bolt on wheel hop reduction kit that will not require taking the cradle out. Front Strut braces are getting close to.
If you can PM me with a good answer to this, I'll order a set within the next couple weeks.
having the same issue with this guy, too.
but in both right front camber and right rear camber and thinking about ordering one of these bushing as they're cheaper and seem like a good easy solution.
my question though: Isn't the front camber adjustable? Or do I need to order 2 pair of these bushings, and if so, will they fit in front or they're only for rear.
but in both right front camber and right rear camber and thinking about ordering one of these bushing as they're cheaper and seem like a good easy solution.
my question though: Isn't the front camber adjustable? Or do I need to order 2 pair of these bushings, and if so, will they fit in front or they're only for rear.
Remember that $399 dose not include installation.I'm having my post-lowering alignment done today, and I provided the rear camber bushings 66050 in case they were needed. Guess what, they are. And it bumps my alignment cost up another +$325 to install the rear bushings. About $500 total alignment cost. I verified this with two alignment shops, cost is similar both places if the rear bushings are needed.
So...$399 for the adjustables? I would have done that in the first place had I known. And if they had been available.
You need to order these to adjust the front.having the same issue with this guy, too.
but in both right front camber and right rear camber and thinking about ordering one of these bushing as they're cheaper and seem like a good easy solution.
my question though: Isn't the front camber adjustable? Or do I need to order 2 pair of these bushings, and if so, will they fit in front or they're only for rear.
SPC FRONT CONTROL ARM CAMBER / CASTER KIT DODGE CHARGER / CHRYSLER 300C (PAIR) | eBay
The difference is that you can install those in your garage fairly easily, then drive it over to an alignment shop. The bushings need an alignment shop to read your current alignment first so that they know how many degrees to install them. You'll be a couple of hundred $$$ into their labor before it's done.Remember that $399 dose not include installation.
having the same issue with this guy, too.
but in both right front camber and right rear camber and thinking about ordering one of these bushing as they're cheaper and seem like a good easy solution.
my question though: Isn't the front camber adjustable? Or do I need to order 2 pair of these bushings, and if so, will they fit in front or they're only for rear.
The front camber is not adjustable but you can buy camber bolts to adjust the front camber. The camber bushings for the rear will do the job.
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Thats for those who have a garage and the tools and skill. Just saying it maybe a wash between the two.The difference is that you can install those in your garage fairly easily, then drive it over to an alignment shop. The bushings need an alignment shop to read your current alignment first so that they know how many degrees to install them. You'll be a couple of hundred $$$ into their labor before it's done.
The difference is that you can install those in your garage fairly easily
If you're taking about the rear control arms installation, it's not as easy as you think. The cradle needs to be lowered in order to get to one of the bolts on the upper control arm.
Or, cut the sheet metal to get to the bolt like in this picture.
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How different are the camber bolts to the front control arms?The front camber is not adjustable but you can buy camber bolts to adjust the front camber. The camber bushings for the rear will do the job.
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I'm so confused and I don't even think alignment shops here know these things.
The only advised me to do something they call "Pulling camber/chassis"...
Please note that I have a 2016 SXT Plus Challenger.
Im pretty fluent in ******* so Ill guess...
with MacPherson strut cars we used to loose everything and then "pull" the wheel out while another guy tightened everything up to get some camber on a non adjustable setup,aka junk suspension design.
That might be what they are talking about.
with MacPherson strut cars we used to loose everything and then "pull" the wheel out while another guy tightened everything up to get some camber on a non adjustable setup,aka junk suspension design.
That might be what they are talking about.
I think that's it, plus the most popular and famous aligning shops here use some kind of liquidy metery thingy instead of Hunter and... Etc.Im pretty fluent in ******* so Ill guess...
with MacPherson strut cars we used to loose everything and then "pull" the wheel out while another guy tightened everything up to get some camber on a non adjustable setup,aka junk suspension design.
That might be what they are talking about.
There's other big tire companies that has Hunter systems and everything, but once they set up all of their sensors, they tell me we can't adjust anything, but the toe and according to the computer it is on the green side and looks good.
Now that I understood the whole thing about the non-adjustabilty of camber... I think I'm gonna order the bushing and the control arm, but not sure who knows how to install these.
Wondering what would Dodge dealer in Saudi Arabia would do if I brought the car to them to align... I really, really doubt they know anything about bushings and control arm and if so no way they're gonna do it for me and might take the short way and fix it with the basic way everyone outside the dealer is doing.
Well from your location it confirms my 45 years of careful observations of people that there are ******** everywhere. Thank you.
I would try the dealer. You may find a person that is a smart and understands what they are doing and what YOU are trying to achieve with your suspension.
Here I bring a box of donuts in to the shop. Mechanics will do anything for donuts. I also use the same shop and they know me and what I want.
Next I would try to find a performance shop that works on putting aftermarket parts on cars. Maybe go where the Ferrari guys go or look to see if there is a car club in your area. Anyone that modifies a car is going to need these services.
I would try the dealer. You may find a person that is a smart and understands what they are doing and what YOU are trying to achieve with your suspension.
Here I bring a box of donuts in to the shop. Mechanics will do anything for donuts. I also use the same shop and they know me and what I want.
Next I would try to find a performance shop that works on putting aftermarket parts on cars. Maybe go where the Ferrari guys go or look to see if there is a car club in your area. Anyone that modifies a car is going to need these services.
How different are the camber bolts to the front control arms?
I'm so confused and I don't even think alignment shops here know these things.
The only advised me to do something they call "Pulling camber/chassis"...
Please note that I have a 2016 SXT Plus Challenger.
Just different methods of adjusting the camber. Eibach has both and I believe SPC makes it for them. Camber bolts are much easier to install vs the upper control arms. There are ton of information on the interwebs about it including installation videos.
I believe they were referring to moving the front cradle to adjust camber.
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Has anyone installed a set of these yet?
Any increase in NVH?
Any increase in NVH?
When I had my '11 Challenger R/T Classic I installed the Eibach control arms and adjustable rear camber bushings after I ruined a set of tires following the installation of Mopar Stage 1 springs.
Once the Eibach control arms and rear camber bushings were in place, both the dealer and my trusty tire shop were able to align every setting dead-center. And, it improved the ride of the car quite a bit.
Bite the bullet and do it.
Once the Eibach control arms and rear camber bushings were in place, both the dealer and my trusty tire shop were able to align every setting dead-center. And, it improved the ride of the car quite a bit.
Bite the bullet and do it.
I installed both of them for the same reason, once I lowered my car, they couldn't get it back into a proper alignment, so it wore out a set of tires on the inside treads. The front upper control arms are not really that hard to change, maybe a 6 on a 10 scale of difficulty. The rear concentric bushings are junk. They are aluminum bushings, pressed into stamped steel control arms. Didn't take very long for them to roll in the sockets. I've since bought these for the rear. You'll need a set of upper front position, and a set of upper rear position bars.
Adj Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Rear) | Charger, Challenger, 300C
Adj Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Front) | Charger, Challenger, 300
Adj Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Rear) | Charger, Challenger, 300C
Adj Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Front) | Charger, Challenger, 300
I have a set of these. Put 'em on the same time I put my springs and swaybars on. Can't beat 'em.I installed both of them for the same reason, once I lowered my car, they couldn't get it back into a proper alignment, so it wore out a set of tires on the inside treads. The front upper control arms are not really that hard to change, maybe a 6 on a 10 scale of difficulty. The rear concentric bushings are junk. They are aluminum bushings, pressed into stamped steel control arms. Didn't take very long for them to roll in the sockets. I've since bought these for the rear. You'll need a set of upper front position, and a set of upper rear position bars.
Adj Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Rear) | Charger, Challenger, 300C
Adj Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Front) | Charger, Challenger, 300
I also did the SPC (Eibach, same thing) front upper control arms.
Actually No.you have to change the camber arms in order to adjust the camber in the rear of these cars, dodge has a camber arm + and camber arm - depending which way it needs to go, im not sure how much adjustment you get out of them though.... something does appear bent on that right rear however.
The Camber Bushings are normally replaced using the index marks for the correct positive or negative angle, normally up to 3 degrees. It is possible that the link could be bent but not likely outside of it being in an accident.
You can easily see various types including adjustable upper and toe link at americanmuscle.comPictures of these control arms? I'm gonna buy a set soon.
Just FYI. I'm replacing my Camber bushing sets this week. They come two per side. 60-70 bucks a set.
When I went to ten inch wheels and 305/35s out back things were fine for a bit .. but a few runs at 1380 started pounding the bushings causing the inner tires to wear rapidly. The negative camber was visually obvious.
This is a 14 Challenger 5.7 with HD suspension with 48k miles on her. I had it on the dyno twice and the tuner left my rev limiter at 7800 causing my trans to go into failsafe mode (trans disconnects 100%) in a burn out.
At first I thought the three quarter inch height difference or wheel weight added was the issue .. nope, it was the trans failsafe while at 6200 rpm was the issue.
Just food for thought. And ps, if I had the money and not a warranty deal I would install adjustable links so if I lower the rear I won't have to go through this again,
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