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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Looking to upgrade the rims on my 2019 pcp shaker and I'm unsure of a few things. Hoping someone can clear things up.
I've decided I want 5 spoke chrome rims and was hoping I can just have someone local swap over the tires and tmps sensors.
From what I can gather I currently have 20x8 5x115 bolt pattern and I assume a +20 offset.
Some web sites say 5x114.3 bolt pattern will fit/ others say no?
If I go with say 0 offset they'll push the rims out about 3/4 inch? Probably not ideal.
Can I go with a 8.5 or 9 inch rim and still safely use my stock 245s?
Pvd chrome? Better than plain chrome?
Here's a few sites I've been looking at.
Thoughts and opinions will be greatly appreciated.

Ok the links didn't show up but I'm considering Foose legends, AR torq thrust, Vision Legend 5 and
20x9 Rocket Racing Modern Muscle Booster Chrome MMR14
American Racing
AR605 Torq Thrust M
20 X8.5 5-115.00 18 CSCHXX
Foose Legend Chrome Wheel - 20x8.5
 

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Consider sticking with the 5x115 . Not every manufacturer makes that drill pattern however, if you are ordering the wheels direct from the manufacturer, they have the tooling to do it if they have 114. You can either have your tire/wheel guy call and ask or call yourself. I used to sell wheels and sometimes they dont list the bolt pattern.

The alternative, drill out the 114’s to 115. Scary to drill brand new wheels but once you get over that fact, you’re golden.

Plenty if companies make 115 patterns appropriate for our cars, look in Bravado i think they have a chrome 5 spoke design.


Please do not put anything skinnier than a 9” wheel on your car. You’re shrinking your contact patch by doing that. I would highly recommend going to even 9.5 if available. Should be able to re-use your current tires, as well as upgrade to wider ones in the future if you like
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Consider sticking with the 5x115 . Not every manufacturer makes that drill pattern however, if you are ordering the wheels direct from the manufacturer, they have the tooling to do it if they have 114. You can either have your tire/wheel guy call and ask or call yourself. I used to sell wheels and sometimes they dont list the bolt pattern.

The alternative, drill out the 114’s to 115. Scary to drill brand new wheels but once you get over that fact, you’re golden.

Plenty if companies make 115 patterns appropriate for our cars, look in Bravado i think they have a chrome 5 spoke design.


Please do not put anything skinnier than a 9” wheel on your car. You’re shrinking your contact patch by doing that. I would highly recommend going to even 9.5 if available. Should be able to re-use your current tires, as well as upgrade to wider ones in the future if you like

Yeah I'm just curious because some websites like Carid for ex. say the 114.3 fits and other websites say it wont.
 

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Yeah I'm just curious because some websites like Carid for ex. say the 114.3 fits and other websites say it wont.
It fits as long as the wheel bore is over 71.5mm and the lug nut studs bend slightly to fit the wheel holes, not ideal by any means but many do it.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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It fits as long as the wheel bore is over 71.5mm and the lug nut studs bend slightly to fit the wheel holes, not ideal by any means but many do it.
Heat treated, then bent wheels studs, combined with losing the hub centric qualities of the wheel sounds like a great combination. But yes, people do jump off bridges, too.

Thankfully, not all that many do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It fits as long as the wheel bore is over 71.5mm and the lug nut studs bend slightly to fit the wheel holes, not ideal by any means but many do it.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Will an 83mm wheel bore be too big on a 115 bolt pattern?
 

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people use the 5 on 4.5 all the time, however, you will most likely get a constant nibble from the wheels and tires, something that drive me nuts, since the wheel most likely will sit over center ever so slightly
Luke
 

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Will an 83mm wheel bore be too big on a 115 bolt pattern?
The center bore and bolt pattern are two separate issues. From the factory, and ideally, the wheel is centered by the hub since the diameters match. Then the bolts really only keep the wheel from falling off and turning on the hub, taking most of the stresses off of them.

Once the hole size in the wheel is bigger than the hub, it is no longer hub centric. Now the studs support the weight, which they really weren't meant to do. Does it still work? Yes, usually. Is it ideal? Far from it.
But you can buy indexing rings to make the too large hole in the wheel match, making things work like they're supposed to again.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Jimmy makes perfect sense.



Btw I've got a much better understanding after searching the web and mostly the sometimes heated exchanges here lol.
From what I now understand is my stock wheels have a 24 offset, 4.96 backspace and center bore of 71.6
Not sure if adding 11.4 mm is a good idea to get to 83mm. Some say the two different metals can deterioate the rings or rim over time.
 

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Some say the two different metals can deterioate the rings or rim over time.
There are (used to be?) plastic indexing rings available, but I wouldn't worry too much about dissimilar metals unless you live in a place where it rains all the time, or they use salt or worse chemicals for deicing. Many good wheel companies include the appropriate rings for the application, by the way.
 

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Not sure I'd feel comfortable with almost a 1/2 inch of plastic holding the wheels on center.
Well, it's not exactly the same kind of plastic as, say, a plastic fork. And even if it was, that's still better than nothing.

Besides, while the difference between ID and OD is nearly half an inch, the thickness of the ring is obviously only half of that,
or 0.2323".

If you still don't trust them (I would), either search out metal ones or have a machine shop whip a set up.
 

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people use the 5 on 4.5 all the time, however, you will most likely get a constant nibble from the wheels and tires, something that drive me nuts, since the wheel most likely will sit over center ever so slightly
Luke
I thought the wheels on the challengers were hub-centric and not lug-centric. If they were lug-centric then the wheels will sit 0.35mm offset (assuming only stud and lug were perfectly aligned).
 

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I thought the wheels on the challengers were hub-centric and not lug-centric. If they were lug-centric then the wheels will sit 0.35mm offset (assuming only stud and lug were perfectly aligned).
They are hub centric, thankfully. That should keep the wheel running true even when using the wrong bolt pattern, making all five studs bend by the same amount.

With the wrong bolt pattern, if not using the correct center bore, or an indexing ring, then tightening the lug nuts like some do, the wheel can end up running a bit crooked since not all five studs will be bent equally.

I don't see why it would be considered okay to run the wrong bolt pattern, even if it "works". To me that's a bit like pouring the wrong oil in the engine. It fits through the filler hole, and the engine will probably survive, but why not use the right stuff?
 

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https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f79/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-637177/

So the info in this post is wrong?

Also, when I install my wheels I usually completely seat one lug...I would imagine that would pin the wheel in one spot while the rest of the lugs would not seat 100% in the countersunk wheel bore...assuming a lug spacing other than 115mm is used.
Sorry, I edited my post to read hub centric, which is what I meant to write in the first place.

I always tighten wheels similarly to torqueing down a head, never applying full force to any one lug nut at first. That can result in warped rotor hats and other problems.

Yes, I know that's not always how a tire store does it, but that's also why I do my own mounting and balancing...and wheel installations. I'm tired of replacing broken or damaged wheel studs, and dealing with sub par balancing.
 
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