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Hit a pot hole hard enough and your tire will most likely be the first to go. Had a coworker blowout all 4 of his tires on his BMW after he hit an edge of asphalt that was created when a construction crew removed a layer of asphalt that ran perpendicular to traffic. According to the tire shop his rims were fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Yeah
That crazy thought just kinda popped into my head. Millions of aftermarket wheels out there and I've never heard of that happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Hit a pot hole hard enough and your tire will most likely be the first to go. Had a coworker blowout all 4 of his tires on his BMW after he hit an edge of asphalt that was created when a construction crew removed a layer of asphalt that ran perpendicular to traffic. According to the tire shop his rims were fine.

Years ago I blewout both drivers side tires after clipping a center island curb in my 74 Saab Sonett.
Late at night in the rain with 4 people in a 2 seater might have had something to do with it lol.
 

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Yeah
That crazy thought just kinda popped into my head. Millions of aftermarket wheels out there and I've never heard of that happening.
Oh, it has happened, and will keep happening. And not only with aftermarket wheels.
I suspect that loose (including from being over torqued) or missing lug nuts is the main reason.
 

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Oh, it has happened, and will keep happening. And not only with aftermarket wheels.

I suspect that loose (including from being over torqued) or missing lug nuts is the main reason.


Absolutely, I bought a used 87 wrangler back in the 90’s. It had 36” MT thornbird tires and a 9” soa lift. Pretty bad ass , I only did a walk around, not very thorough. Long story longer , a big ass pothole and three loose lugnuts lead to the death wobble. Luckily I pulled over before the wheel actually kept rolling !! Lucky/unlucky day !!


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I know this is a little off topic but I had to replace a rotor on my Ranger and used a cheap Chinese knock off I got from Checker Auto. I didn't know this at the time. I also put on brand new wheels and tires at the same time at Big O Tire. I was a regular there so I have no reason to believe they screwed up on the install and they torqued each lug nut by hand. I made it less than 100 miles before all the pressed in studs broke off the new Chinese rotor. The new wheels and tires were only one size bugger than stock and afterwords I ran them for 10 more years. It turns out that the studs in the rotor had no grade markings on the heads. Checker Auto refused to replace it since they could not find any record of me buying it. I will never buy another non name brand brake part again and I do all of my own brake work.
 

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I have always heard hub centric meant the center hole was a near exact match to the hub on the car. Not that the hub supported the weight, just that the wheel would center on it as there was not play for it to do otherwise.

https://www.americastire.com/learn/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric

A Guy
Agreed - and this is the way that I've always understood it as well. I think this whole debate may boil down to how people define "hub-centric" and "lug-centric". To me, these terms have nothing to do with what supports the weight of the car - only what centers the wheel on the car - hence the "centric" part of the terms. :)

I think that that page that @A Guy linked to is the most "direct", "easy to understand" definition of "hub-centic" and "lug-centric" - assuming it's correct (although, it's from a wheel/tire business, so I'd think that they know what they are talking about on the subject). :)

I did send a question into Dodge via their website yeterday. We'll see if I get a response...
 

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Agreed - and this is the way that I've always understood it as well. I think this whole debate may boil down to how people define "hub-centric" and "lug-centric". To me, these terms have nothing to do with what supports the weight of the car - only what centers the wheel on the car - hence the "centric" part of the terms. :)

I did send a question into Dodge via their website yeterday. We'll see if I get a response...
Yep, that's the bottom line, and I'm sorry for having brought up that the weight could be carried by either centering method.
I thought it'd be an easy way to explain "hub centric", but it only lead to more confusion.

If Dodge responds, I think we all know what what the answer is already.
 

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Yep, that's the bottom line, and I'm sorry for having brought up that the weight could be carried by either centering method.

I thought it'd be an easy way to explain "hub centric", but it only lead to more confusion.



If Dodge responds, I think we all know what what the answer is already.


I sure know what dodge will say ;)


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:deadhorse: Exactly, that is also how I interpreted the meaning of hub centric. Again it is the definition that is really in question. BTW did not get a chance to check the OEM wheels but will try again later today. I will also take measurements of the wheel bore and hub boss.
 

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I have wheels laying around, so I can easily measure a few. They should all be the same.
I measured the wheel (don't remember offhand as I wrote it on a post-it) just not the hub. My intent is to take an image of the lug after the wheel has been seated on the hub. I know for a fact that my demon FR wheels do not sit on the lugs when mounted...just don't recall if the OEM ones do as well?

I should be able to get to it today. I have a buddy with a mustang coming over to install headers so while he is taking off the old system I will be adjusting my parking brakes...really need to as I have a manual.
 

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I have wheels laying around, so I can easily measure a few. They should all be the same.


Quick fact : stud diameter and gage(space between studs)can both vary .3mm both ways. So at the greatest there can/will be up to .6mm differences and at the least they will be equal. This was on my charger before I changed any wheels. Point is , there are tolerances allotted.


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Yep, that's the bottom line, and I'm sorry for having brought up that the weight could be carried by either centering method.
I thought it'd be an easy way to explain "hub centric", but it only lead to more confusion.

If Dodge responds, I think we all know what what the answer is already.
Having been in retail tire sales for many years prior to 2010, it just came to me that The Tire Rack has a lot of valuable educational resources.

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=91

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/tiretech.jsp?tab=Wheels

 

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There is no debate , nothing to question , where are you lost ? Go outside , do what I said , then come back. If seeing is not believing, there is no helping you.


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Well, I brought out my factory wheel and rather than measure diameters (hub boss is ~71.40mm in diameter....caliper won't fit in the wheel so no measurement) I decided to mount it without the lugs and video the lug/holes to confirm the wheel does not sit on the lugs but on the hub boss. So I am pretty confident the OEM wheels are considered hub-centric.

https://vimeo.com/341231243
 

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Having been in retail tire sales for many years prior to 2010, it just came to me that The Tire Rack has a lot of valuable educational resources.

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=91

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/tiretech.jsp?tab=Wheels

Yeah, I posted links earlier in the thread as well but it didn't seem to help the debate. That's why I posted the vid with the wheel sitting on the hub...no lugs...and the wheel lug nut holes are pretty darn near centered (i.e. wheel sits on hub...not the lugs). I hope this ends the debate, the OEM wheels are hub-centric. Now if you want a vid of lug-centric just wait for me to take off my aftermarket wheels on my liberty. :wink3:

BTW what is your response after being in the tire retail biz and seeing the vid?
 
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