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2010 Challenger SRT8. 2016 Challenger RT 392 Scat Pack Shaker
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, so I have a 2010 challenger srt8. 26,000 miles On the odometer, almost every bolt on upgrade you can think of, including suspension. A week ago, under normal driving conditions, shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear something happened. Not good. Luckily I was about 700 feet from my house and limped it into my shop in the backyard. Turns out, bent pushrod and broken valve spring (intake #4) . So instead of just replacing the single spring I want to replace all 16, including retainers, stem seats, etc. however, I would prefer to retain the stock cam. Seriously not crazy about pulling the motor. I’ve read and now, obviously witnessed, oem valve spring deterioration. So my question is: can anyone recommend an upgraded valve spring set that will still be compatible with the stock cam in the 6.1l hemi? I contacted comp cams via chat feature on their website and they responded that they do not have a compatible set. Really? Sales tactic to force me to buy a cam as well, I’m sure lol. Anyway, any information is greatly appreciated!
 

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If you have a manual transmission equipped car, you sure you didn't go from 2nd to 1st?

The problem is valve springs for a different cam may have too much spring pressure -- necessary for the after market cam's higher lift and steep ramp angles -- but would flat lobe the factory cam in no time.

I'd just replace the bent pushrod and the valve spring and the retainer.
 

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the 6.1s were know to occasionally have valve springs break. Happens rarely on the other engines. They're priced very reasonable ($9 per spring)

there are Mopar performance valve springs - check to see if they work with the installed height that 6.1 requires and if shims are required to achieve that.

with your low miles, I'd leave the stem seals alone - they're probably in fine shape. They're a viton type material and should last a long time.

Fortunately you didn't have the keepers and retainer fall out and drop a valve. You can use an air chuck / spark plug adapater and compressed air to hold the valves shut (each cyl on TDC) as I've done this on cam swaps.
-no need to remove the heads for that operation
 
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Do a search for Mopar Performance Valve spring on here. You'll have to see if it'll work on the 6.1 head but it's what I used for a 392 cam in my 5.7
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you have a manual transmission equipped car, you sure you didn't go from 2nd to 1st?

The problem is valve springs for a different cam may have too much spring pressure -- necessary for the after market cam's higher lift and steep ramp angles -- but would flat lobe the factory cam in no time.

I'd just replace the bent pushrod and the valve spring and the retainer.
Haha yes it is manual. No I didn’t miss shift. Even though my two boys ages 8 and 6 were begging to “go fast” I didn’t because we were just a mile down the road at a friends house enjoying the pool all day and didn’t want to bring on any added attention. Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the 6.1s were know to occasionally have valve springs break. Happens rarely on the other engines. They're priced very reasonable ($9 per spring)

there are Mopar performance valve springs - check to see if they work with the installed height that 6.1 requires and if shims are required to achieve that.

with your low miles, I'd leave the stem seals alone - they're probably in fine shape. They're a viton type material and should last a long time.

Fortunately you didn't have the keepers and retainer fall out and drop a valve. You can use an air chuck / spark plug adapater and compressed air to hold the valves shut (each cyl on TDC) as I've done this on cam swaps.
-no need to remove the heads for that operation
the 6.1s were know to occasionally have valve springs break. Happens rarely on the other engines. They're priced very reasonable ($9 per spring)

there are Mopar performance valve springs - check to see if they work with the installed height that 6.1 requires and if shims are required to achieve that.

with your low miles, I'd leave the stem seals alone - they're probably in fine shape. They're a viton type material and should last a long time.

Fortunately you didn't have the keepers and retainer fall out and drop a valve. You can use an air chuck / spark plug adapater and compressed air to hold the valves shut (each cyl on TDC) as I've done this on cam swaps.
-no need to remove the heads for that operation
Hal thanks for the info! I agree with you, It could have been worse! My reasoning at this point is after seeing this type of valve spring breakage and how common it is with the 6.1 I figured if I was going to purchase the valve spring replacement clamp (roughly $160) I may as well upgrade all of the springs at once since I have already removed the valve covers. I already have the compressed air plug adapter and plan on using that so I don’t have to remove the heads. Also why I would rather not change the factory cam which would lead to more work and either a motor pull or front end extraction. So basically if there are no legitimate upgraded valve spring replacements (non oem stock) while continuing to use the stock camshaft it may be best to just replace the single broken spring and go from there. I’m open to any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks so much for your and the other responses!
 

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Hal thanks for the info! I agree with you, It could have been worse! My reasoning at this point is after seeing this type of valve spring breakage and how common it is with the 6.1 I figured if I was going to purchase the valve spring replacement clamp (roughly $160) I may as well upgrade all of the springs at once since I have already removed the valve covers. I already have the compressed air plug adapter and plan on using that so I don’t have to remove the heads. Also why I would rather not change the factory cam which would lead to more work and either a motor pull or front end extraction. So basically if there are no legitimate upgraded valve spring replacements (non oem stock) while continuing to use the stock camshaft it may be best to just replace the single broken spring and go from there. I’m open to any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks so much for your and the other responses!
BTW - you don't have to remove the front fascia (nose) for cam swaps - I've done two on the '09 - '14 years and one '16

the '14 and earlier grille leaves 4"+ space with the cam all the way out of the block. the '15+ grille requires a slight angle to get the last couple of inches out - easy to do.

the radiator is dropped from below; once you do that, there's all the space to remove the harmonic balancer and the front timing cover.

I'd replace all the springs if I were you - for whatever reason, I remember post about fairly new low mile 6.1s have the random spring break.

PSI makes springs that fit many Gen III Hemi applications - while you're in there put chrome-moly pushrods for extra insurance, especially if you go with a higher rate aftermarket spring. Manley had ready-made sets (.080 wall is what you need) for the job.

Since your cam is okay, the spring swap is much less complicated.

If the Mopar Performance valve springs work, then its the cheapest option yet.
- you might want to reach out to Luke or Josh @stevewhite. Their dealership does a lot of performance upgrades and may have more information on what springs will work on the 6.1.

I'm less inclined to go with the stock 6.1 replacements - that engine went out of production after MY 2010. Either they're n/a or its old stock built back at that time...and with the issue that randomly turns up - I wouldn't want a second change at that.
 
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Hal thanks for the info! I agree with you, It could have been worse! My reasoning at this point is after seeing this type of valve spring breakage and how common it is with the 6.1 I figured if I was going to purchase the valve spring replacement clamp (roughly $160) I may as well upgrade all of the springs at once since I have already removed the valve covers. I already have the compressed air plug adapter and plan on using that so I don’t have to remove the heads. Also why I would rather not change the factory cam which would lead to more work and either a motor pull or front end extraction. So basically if there are no legitimate upgraded valve spring replacements (non oem stock) while continuing to use the stock camshaft it may be best to just replace the single broken spring and go from there. I’m open to any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks so much for your and the other responses!
If you replace all the valve springs and other hardware you increase the odds of a hardware failure.

All the hardware is new and as a result is subject to premature failure. The odds of this are relatively high. (Part of the reason for a new car warranty to address this risk to the owner.)
 

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I also have done a cam swap without removing any body parts. All I removed was the fan and radiator. Seems like ur not interested in it but if u are I can give u some tips on making the job a little easier
 

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Hey, so I have a 2010 challenger srt8. 26,000 miles On the odometer, almost every bolt on upgrade you can think of, including suspension. A week ago, under normal driving conditions, shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear something happened. Not good. Luckily I was about 700 feet from my house and limped it into my shop in the backyard. Turns out, bent pushrod and broken valve spring (intake #4) . So instead of just replacing the single spring I want to replace all 16, including retainers, stem seats, etc. however, I would prefer to retain the stock cam. Seriously not crazy about pulling the motor. I’ve read and now, obviously witnessed, oem valve spring deterioration. So my question is: can anyone recommend an upgraded valve spring set that will still be compatible with the stock cam in the 6.1l hemi? I contacted comp cams via chat feature on their website and they responded that they do not have a compatible set. Really? Sales tactic to force me to buy a cam as well, I’m sure lol. Anyway, any information is greatly appreciated!
Did you bend the valve?
 
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