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Discussion Starter #1
I love my 2016 SRT with the A8. It's been a blast on the street and autocrossing / driving on a 2.5 mile track. I was considering getting a Camaro ZL1 1LE, but I think I changed back to the Hellcat. I just love this big boned beast, the weight, look, ride, and feel, and I got passed by a new Vette at the track. I know a Hellcat could of hung with him as I almost could keep up with my 392.

So I know insurance is more. I just checked and it looks to be $2-300 more a year which is fine. I would love a new Hellcat, but I'll probably have to get a 2015 or 2016, maybe a 2017 if I find a deal. Is there much of a difference in the years? This car will be my daily driver, but I only drive about 5k a year in it as I drive the wife's SUV too. My car looks to be worth around $41k, plus I have around $5k in performance goodies added. That'll pay for most of a used Hellcat.

I was thinking of getting the manual, but they are slower technically. Do the clutches burn out quick? I've seen a lot of used ones for sale with new clutches. I drive pretty moderately, except at the track which happens about once a month when it isn't the summer. I just do it for fun, but I love to go fast and get kind of competitive. Only reason I see to get the M6 is just a personal preference over the auto for some, and it helps to slow down the car and save the brakes while racing (right?). Is there any other reason to get the M6? I would prefer the A8 as I love mine, and in traffic it's easier. I drove the A8 Hellcats at Bondurant and that sold me. I've just been waiting to get the funding, and to make sure it's really what I want to do. All the instructors drove the M6s, not sure why? Maybe it's just more manly? Or is locking it in gear the way to go? I know in my prerunner, having a stick with a locking rear end was the bomb!

Are there any other options you recommend for a HC?
 

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The manual is cooler in a number of ways, but on a Hellcat the selling point of the A8 is you have an lot of HP to deal with without having to manage shifting. On a Honda Civic, you have way more time and way less speed to think about. You can floor the gas, eat a sandwich, then worry about shifting. Not so in a Hellcat. The shift point comes fast.





Keep in mind the 6M gearbox is meant to handle high power and doesn't shift as easily as the Honda, either.





That said, I have a Hellcat 6M on order so that tells you where I sit...!
 

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The auto is faster in straight line distance and offers more of a care free ride specially for a novice driver. The m6 is very reliable transmission and can take the hp. Not saying one transmission is better than the other both just offer different thing. Manuals requires you to work the car and be more part of it. My car is not a daily driver but it is an M6 and that's what I want, even in a car like this if it were a daily driver id probably still lean to an M6.


As far as value on trade that's all over the place. Good general rule of thumb is youll get low retail on a trade, remember dealer is going to sell it for what its worth. As far as add ons hope you enjoyed them because if it doesn't come with it your just giving it to the next guy for free. Add ons for the most part mean nothing in resale.
 

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As for saving brakes.....I don't see how transferring the weight of a 4500lbs car through the entire driveline (u-joints, trans, differential etc) into the engine (crank, rods, pistons, timing chain) is better than letting a $50 set of easily replacable brake pads do the job. Especially when the brakes are hell-for-stout 14" 6 piston Brembo discs. Engine braking is for those 'oh shit' moments when your brake pedal goes to the floor...
 

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The cool thing about getting the TR-6060 manual in the Hellcat (As opposed to the TR-6060 with the 392 or 5.7) is that it shares a performance oriented close-ratio spread with the Viper. That might mean you shift more often around town, but then again you'd have 650 ft-lb of torque so maybe not. The gear you're in might not matter much anyway. Best bet would be to test drive of course. It also an auxiliary trans cooler for road course duty. The automatic would be the monster 8HP90, which is obviously just a beast. Responsive, fast shifts, etc. You can't go wrong. With either trans I don't think there isn't a right gear for most tracks.

If you're going for autocross, it might be good to avoid a sunroof. It could be just me, but I find any sunroof equipped Challenger or Charger I've sat in with a helmet on, I contact the headliner. Even with the seat all the way down, the sunroof cuts into helmet room.
 

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I think you're going to have a hard time selling your car for $46k when someone can buy a used Hellcat for about the same price.
 

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As for saving brakes.....I don't see how transferring the weight of a 4500lbs car through the entire driveline (u-joints, trans, differential etc) into the engine (crank, rods, pistons, timing chain) is better than letting a $50 set of easily replacable brake pads do the job...
It's hard to keep brakes on a 4000 plus pound car, I know I can burn out the brakes with one good hot lap on everything I ever drove on the track, except real race cars.

OP, get the trans you want but I can barely keep up when I'm shifting my auto in the manual mode. It might be easier on the track when you are not going through that many gears but from a dead stop, you'll be busy.
 

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I think you're going to have a hard time selling your car for $46k when someone can buy a used Hellcat for about the same price.
Think so too guys are brand new SRTS for 45-46 and scat packs for 40. Think a much more logical point is probably closer to 35-38, 38 being high
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ya I guess I really need to test drive a manual to decide. I will be moving to California at some point. So I'll be in rush hour a LOT. That is part of why I stopped mods on my SRT. CA doesn't like that kind of thing.

I don't want a sunroof. They suck in Phoenix, plus the extra weight up high is no bueno. If it lowers head room, that is not good with a helmet as it's tight anyways.

Wasn't planning on selling my car for $46k. But I do have an extra set of OEM rims with 71Rs, a tuner and extra PCM I can sell with, or sell separately to help fund the hell kitty.
 

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Well.....no SRT weighs 4000lbs. More like 4300lbs. then add the driver, too.


In any case...racing anything that weighs over 2 tons is asking for trouble. It's like being a 300lbs. ballet dancer. You might need to engine brake, but the price you pay (beating on the driveline) is a side effect of all that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well.....no SRT weighs 4000lbs. More like 4300lbs. then add the driver, too.


In any case...racing anything that weighs over 2 tons is asking for trouble. It's like being a 300lbs. ballet dancer. You might need to engine brake, but the price you pay (beating on the driveline) is a side effect of all that.
Yes these cars are heavy af. But that makes them fun too. The 2.5 mile track was amazing. I did 3 session of 20 minutes each where I managed to gulp an entire tank of gas. The brakes worked flawlessly with the stock Brembos, and I was pushing it pretty hard. Only blew one corner when I hit my max for the day of 121 mph on the straight.

 

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I love the "I Dodged that one" laugh ;)

A Guy
 

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Yes these cars are heavy af. But that makes them fun too. The 2.5 mile track was amazing. I did 3 session of 20 minutes each where I managed to gulp an entire tank of gas. The brakes worked flawlessly with the stock Brembos, and I was pushing it pretty hard. Only blew one corner when I hit my max for the day of 121 mph on the straight.

121 MPH down the straightaway was too much - YouTube

That should be banned! You are having far too much fun. :wink3:
 
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