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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys just recently forged my 392 and bought the 2.75 pulley for my edelbrock sc. Talked with dyno shop today said motor internals were working perfect but my iat was getting to hot and lowered my numbers big time. Said heat exchanger and pump did not deliver to get good results. Running the stock heat exchanger and pump from edelbrock. I dont want to go the meth route tried it on my sc truck dont like it not gonna purchase a chiller killer. Any thoughts on a better heat exchanger and high flow pump to cool these temps down ?
 

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I thought the chiller killer was not meant for continuous operation but just for cooldown after a drag run? Which edel kit did you get...151720 with the Eaton TVS R2650? If so, it is supposed to have a better cooling setup than the previous 2300 blower. BTW if you did not purge all the bubbles out of the intercooling system you IATs are gonna run higher than normal.

I am not family with the edel pulley sizes but if your 2.75" pulley is capable of producing >7lbs of boost you do not want to install it if you are not running forged internals.
 

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I hope you are not putting this on a stock 6.4. If so, don't even attempt to run 12psi on that motor...it will not survive for very long!
 

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Ha ya its forged. So before the forging and at 7 psi had 600 whp 540s rwt. after forging at 6700 rpm 590 whp 586 rwt but...... across the whole board I had picked up 50 whp and 100 rwt but lost it at 5500 rpm. guys at the shop said if it was not pulling all the timing out at 5500 rpm would have been at 650 and 630. cuz of this heat problem its losing all the progress. And chally I got the old school setup tvs2300 it's on a 2012 392 challenger
 

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So I kept the stock edelbrock heat exchanger and bought the emp Stewart w29 pump reprogrammed for the higher output. U have to mount it a certain way cant do it upside down like the Bosch but I work in a custom fab shop so making a sturdy bracket outta 10 gauge ain't nothing. WOW what a difference in flow that Bosch pump barely flowed compared to this thing You take the cap off and coolant is exploding out of the recovery tank.On my first drive to test pump out I noticed a difference in power right off the bat with no retune. Just took car back to dyno shop tonight.
 

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I never thought the flow of the Bosch pump on my maggie set-up was lacking. In fact, I thought the flow was a bit much to allow sufficient heat to be dissipated through the intercooler radiator. One of my biggest problems was getting ALL of the bubbles out of the system which I finally did by extensively bleeding the system...went through a gallon of coolant doing it too. Once I had the system was sufficiently bled my IAT stays around 30F above ambient.

If anything, I am tempted to throw another heat exchanger up front like Luke has.


https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/6-4l-temperature-maximums-671627/?671627=#post8481981
 

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Ugh wish I would have thought of that I see it bottom right, well i still can later but wont have it retuned. Chally I haven't searched dyno numbers on a ( oem or sold with a kit pump) as in before and after iats or hp numbers but did look at flow charts if you go on to Google search and type legenfelter pump test the Bosh did the worst barely on the board.
 

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That stewart EMP pump is the best out there. The other thing that helps is a large coolant res and if you can
run straight distilled water + water wetter (redline).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah never knew of this water wetter till last week. I added it to both cooling systems. As far as the cooling system for the sc went 60/40 instead of 50/50 this time around. I really dont want to do a trunk tank might try that extra heat exchanger idea if it's still losing power. I will post my last dyno chart just for the data on who's interested but it's sad as hell. Shows 2 tunes the red is before the forge and upped boost bigger injectors the blue line is after forge.
 

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I really hate that graph !! So kept same coolant lines new emp pump 60/40 mixture added water wetter correct mixture. Hope they tune it tomorrow will be about the same temp as the day it was done will post results
 

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25GPM @ 12 Amps! That thing is a beast! I have been kicking around upgrading to it along with some sort of

custom large coolant res. I've seen this pump on mustangs with big res's and it's like a firehose :)

I am running 50/50 plus water wetter in my IC loop and I did notice a drop in IAT's. It wasn't
massive but it did drop. I think the key is to go straight water and water wetter but I'm in

SWPA and I don't always heat my garage during the winter so I've decided against it.


On that dyno graph. After your forge, pulley and injector swap was it custom tuned?
Did you upgrade the fuel pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes that graph is from the end results of tuning first time red lines first tune stock motor ,Arrington fuel pump ,46 psi injectors ,90 mil tb edelbrock sc 2300 Tvs ,6 psi boost catch can. Second tune blue lines and what changed forged engine 1000 cc injectors 12 psi pulley and whole lot of high air temps. Third graph coming emp reprogrammed pump with water wetter 60/40 mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And yes with that Bosch pump I could have the cap off the res and nothing would come out but
it looked like it had a good flow. With this emp pump u take the cap off the the res when running and u lose all your coolant !! If you are going to do it here is the bracket and mounting I did used 10 gauge sturdy as hell got alot of scrap were I work complete metal fab shop. You have to mount pump level and a certain way no more upside down mount like the Bosch. Here's a few pics. Used rubber grommets on back side of bracket heard it did vibrate when on. And you hear the dam thing running when driving.
 

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The results are in the pump did help alot but not where I want to be. Turned my 155 degree iat down to 135 but that is still to high !! Looks like it's time to buy a big reservoir. Need to take full advantage of this pump and probably use 1 inch lines. Here's most recent dyno with the emp pump installed.
 

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The results are in the pump did help alot but not where I want to be. Turned my 155 degree iat down to 135 but that is still to high !! Looks like it's time to buy a big reservoir. Need to take full advantage of this pump and probably use 1 inch lines. Here's most recent dyno with the emp pump installed.

Getting there. The 1" lines will slow the velocity and increase the volume of flow, couple that with a big resi
and run pure distilled water with water wetter and I'd think you could drop another 10 degrees no problem.
More inter-cooler volume would help but you are kind of limited in what you can do there.

Great install of that big arse pump! :)
 
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