Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
2017 Shaker Scat Pack
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some advice. I have decided to upgrade my 2017 Challenger sound system. There is limited info online so I am asking a few questions. to start I have the following already purchased (recommended by a local store):

HDP5 Hertz 5 channel amp (950W max)
JL TR 6.5 component for the doors (tweets for the dash)
JL TR 6x9 3 way speakers for the rear deck.

Well once I removed all the panels here is what is ACTUALLY in the car:

6x9 bass speakers in the door
3 tweeters in the dash (right, center, left)
6.5 speakers in the rear deck with tweets in the rear side panel
8"sub in the rear deck


My original plan was to amp the 4 channels plus add a sub. through research I found out that I cannot grab the front speakers at the door to supply a signal to the amp because the factory amp only sends a bass frequency there. There is the option of a PAC Module which is a week away and has poor reviews or can I use a DSP (hertz H8DSP)will that pull full frequency from the factory amp?
where is the best place to grab the signals for the DSP? does it have enough channels? do I have to send the tweeter channels to the DSP as well?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
460 Posts
On my car, I replaced all of the speakers. I went with Infinity in the doors and dash, and then some Kicker OEM 6.5s in the rear deck. I removed the 8" "sub" in the deck, and used those lines to supply source to a 500 watt amp in the trunk, and added a JL Stealthbox. It sounds WAY better than it did before.
 

·
Registered
2017 Shaker Scat Pack
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
What don't you like about the factory system? I'm just asking because I ordered the Sound Group II on my 2018.
I just find it has no "unfortunately" and distorts at higher volumes. The alpine premium sounds better in my ram for some reason.
 

·
Registered
2017 Shaker Scat Pack
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
On my car, I replaced all of the speakers. I went with Infinity in the doors and dash, and then some Kicker OEM 6.5s in the rear deck. I removed the 8" "sub" in the deck, and used those lines to supply source to a 500 watt amp in the trunk, and added a JL Stealthbox. It sounds WAY better than it did before.
So you didn't touch the factory amp then? I am considering just upgrading the fronts and amp the rear plus a 350W sub
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
I am confused here, why does the PAC have poor reviews? Everyone including myself who has the piece loves it because it gives a nice clean flat signal. Even when using a DSP i consider it a must as our factory amp's DSP has wonky tuning and once you flatten it at one volume level it will be different at another volume level. As far as your configuration the HDP5 will work ditch the 6x9's for the rear and put in some 6.5" coaxials for rear fill, keep it simple and make it sound good.
 

·
Registered
2017 Shaker Scat Pack
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I am confused here, why does the PAC have poor reviews? Everyone including myself who has the piece loves it because it gives a nice clean flat signal. Even when using a DSP i consider it a must as our factory amp's DSP has wonky tuning and once you flatten it at one volume level it will be different at another volume level. As far as your configuration the HDP5 will work ditch the 6x9's for the rear and put in some 6.5" coaxials for rear fill, keep it simple and make it sound good.
I appreciate the reply. I had only seen some posts which stated "poor reviews". I am more than willing to use it now that you recommend it. Do you think a DSP is a must? If so do you recommend a brand and model? Please keep in mind I am a complete newbie at tuning but would be willing to give it a try. I just want the cleanest sound I can get with decent volume.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Well it all depends on budget and how far you want to go. I can tell you that if you get the optional optical output piece for the pac unit and feed optical into a DSP the noise floor of the system is completely gone which is just awesome. The problem you run into when going with a DSP is unless you run your system active meaning each speaker is independently powered by a channel on the amplifier, time alignment can get tricky. To further explain in a vehicle we dont really get to always decide where a speaker will be placed and most times using a factory location is best for ease of installation. In addition we do not sit in the center of the vehicle so our ears are closer to the speakers on the left side of the car then the right which presents an acoustical challenge of creating a perfect stereo image. DSP's have time alignment features that allow you to delay the speakers response based on its position in the vehicle by simply measuring the speakers distance from the driver to each individual speaker. The problem is when you are running a passive setup meaning you are using a seperate crossover to use 1 channel to power 2 speakers. The speakers are in different locations so the time alignment can be done somewhat ok but not perfectly and takes some tweaking around to find the right compromise. I am by far a supporter of a DSP whether you are passive vs active. However you will get the full benefit of a DSP by going full active. Now as far as a DSP to recommend that is hard to say with so many on the market. If you could tell me what your price range is i could steer you towards an option. Just as a basic good DSP that will certainly get the job done for you the JL TWK-88 is a great option. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698101/JL-Audio-TwK-88-System-Tuning-Processor.html?tp=61658&awkw=201494478265&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=102806273425&awdv=c&awug=9032829
 

·
Registered
2017 Shaker Scat Pack
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So with Running a Hertz HDP 5 i will be amping all 4 channels I shouldn't have any timing issues using a DSP. I was originally looking at Hertz H8 DSP as an option in conjunction with my HDP 5 amp to eliminate the need for a interface module all together, but I dont think that will work the way i would want. I am thinking I will go the way you suggest, which is run the Pac AP4 module optical into the H8 DSP then into the amp and then out to component 6.5s in both the front door/dash and rear deck/side panel. If i use the H8 I may even be able to integrate the center channel as well if I am reading Hertz' site properly.

Again I appreciate you taking the time to reply to my post :smile::smile::smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
I've been quite pleased with the Alpine system in my '17 SP. That being said, I understand the desire to upgrade. Good luck with it and let us know what kind of progress you make, I'd be interested to hear more about it, if for nothing else, the technical aspects.
 

·
Registered
2017 Shaker Scat Pack
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I've been quite pleased with the Alpine system in my '17 SP. That being said, I understand the desire to upgrade. Good luck with it and let us know what kind of progress you make, I'd be interested to hear more about it, if for nothing else, the technical aspects.
.


I will definitely post the progress. I have pictures of everything so far and will do a complete up date once I make the final equipment purchases
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
So with Running a Hertz HDP 5 i will be amping all 4 channels I shouldn't have any timing issues using a DSP. I was originally looking at Hertz H8 DSP as an option in conjunction with my HDP 5 amp to eliminate the need for a interface module all together, but I dont think that will work the way i would want. I am thinking I will go the way you suggest, which is run the Pac AP4 module optical into the H8 DSP then into the amp and then out to component 6.5s in both the front door/dash and rear deck/side panel. If i use the H8 I may even be able to integrate the center channel as well if I am reading Hertz' site properly.

Again I appreciate you taking the time to reply to my post :smile::smile::smile:
Time alignment has nothing to do with the amp, of course all signals coming from the amp will arrive at all the speakers at the same time and play at the same time. The idea behind a perfect stereo image is that the listener is sitting at a equal distance between left and right speakers and both left and right speakers are in the same position playing at the same volume which will create a proper center image and staging left/right of instruments and vocalists. In a vehicle we do not sit perfectly center nor are the speakers equal distances from each other. some are in the door some are in the dash etc.... What time alignment does is it allows you to delay the speakers that are closest to you in order to achieve a correct image. Also think about this when it comes to rear speakers in your car installing a set of components in the rear may make it sound worse then if you just installed nothing. That is because that tweeter location for the rear speaker is very close to the driver and will pull your image backwards instead of forwards due to its location. My reccomendation is if you are set on having to have rear speakers to just put a set of coaxials in the rear shelf. Myself i have nothing in the rear. I run everything active in the front and subwoofers and thats it. My reccomendation would actually be to do that yourself and see how you like it. use the 4 channels on the HDP5 to run a set of 2 way components up front active with proper time alignment and then the sub channel for your subwoofers and see how you like it. Many people believe they need rear speakers until they hear a proper imaged system without them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
460 Posts
So you didn't touch the factory amp then? I am considering just upgrading the fronts and amp the rear plus a 350W sub
Correct. I left the factory amp in place. Putting higher quality component speakers in the doors and dash made a very noticeable difference in sound quality. The "Alpine" speakers really aren't very good. I can get you some pictures if you haven't pulled yours yet. The sub is a joke. Adding the Stealthbox and a 500 watt amp turned it into a completely different sounding car. I did a 300 watt in the 2012 I had before, and it wasn't quite nough power for the Stealthbox.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I just did my rear deck with a set of Polk db651's coaxil that I bought for another car but never used, it sounds a hell of a lot better. I wish I had the factory speaker connection pieces from metra before I did the install but aw well. I had a few questions as well. The side and front "tweeters" you guys are referring to are 3.5" speakers correct? Any recommendations for 3.5" upgrades? I have a set of Polk db6501 6 1/2" components that I might put in the front doors. Since the amp sends bass to the front door speakers will I still have to use the bass blocker? Im guessing no. Thanks in advance
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top