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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all!

I'm picking up a stock SRT dual exhaust this weekend for my SXT. (Very excited! And jealous of the 2011 owners, coming stock with dual exhaust!) :)

I know squat about exhaust systems ... I've been calling around to various muffler shops to find out rates and such.

My question to y'all is this: How long should this swap take? I know it's a straight swap, and a reducer is needed, but that's all I know?

A couple of shops have told me their hourly rate, but if it goes longer than an hour I'll hafta hold off for a few weeks.. :p

Anyone?
 

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I had mine swapped exactly like you plan on doing about 6 weeks ago. I didn't sit and wait there while they did it. I dropped it off bright and early in the morning (first customer). They called me about 2 1/2 hours later to come pick it up. I really doubt they were working on it for that long. But they did have to swap out the single cutout rear valance for the dual cutout rear valance that I provided them with as well. The whole thing cost me $120 even. This was from one of the more reputable muffler shops I have in my area. Hope this helps.
 

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Hi all!

I'm picking up a stock SRT dual exhaust this weekend for my SXT. (Very excited! And jealous of the 2011 owners, coming stock with dual exhaust!) :)

I know squat about exhaust systems ... I've been calling around to various muffler shops to find out rates and such.

My question to y'all is this: How long should this swap take? I know it's a straight swap, and a reducer is needed, but that's all I know?

A couple of shops have told me their hourly rate, but if it goes longer than an hour I'll hafta hold off for a few weeks.. :p

Anyone?
Why would you replace your 2.25 pipe with 3.00 pipe? You are going to lose a lot of power. Also, SRT is straight Thu, no X pipe, which also is going to add to power loss. Right now you have a Y pipe with 2.25 exhaust pipe. My suggestion is to replace the Y pipe with a X pipe, or H pipe, and stay with 2.25 pipe. The 3.5L need the back pressure to balance the exhaust.

When I replaced my exhaust, I had my muffler shop build me an "X" pipe system, with AP Mufflers and 2.25 pipe and 4in tips.($350.00) The power increase was very noticeable, and it sounds great. If you want you could also go to Blastin-bobs Fat pipes and order the resonators with rolled 4in tips, to eliminate some drone which you will get with a duel exhaust system.

Blastin Bob's Fat Pipes
 

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Why would you replace your 2.25 pipe with 3.00 pipe? You are going to lose a lot of power. Also, SRT is straight Thu, no X pipe, which also is going to add to power loss. Right now you have a Y pipe with 2.25 exhaust pipe. My suggestion is to replace the Y pipe with a X pipe, or H pipe, and stay with 2.25 pipe. The 3.5L need the back pressure to balance the exhaust.

When I replaced my exhaust, I had my muffler shop build me an "X" pipe system, with AP Mufflers and 2.25 pipe and 4in tips.($350.00) The power increase was very noticeable, and it sounds great. If you want you could also go to Blastin-bobs Fat pipes and order the resonators with rolled 4in tips, to eliminate some drone which you will get with a duel exhaust system.

Blastin Bob's Fat Pipes
To set the record straight, the SRT exhaust has an "H" pipe and is 2.75" in diameter.

Greg
 

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To set the record straight, the SRT exhaust has an "H" pipe and is 2.75" in diameter.

Greg


I stand corrected BUT.. SRT is 2.5"......cat pipes are 2 .75, then necks down to 2.25" in front and out of the muffler and resonators, (went out and measured my friends SRT-8) but my point is still valid. Too much for a 3.5L, I would stay with 2.25 for the torque value.

OP SRT-8 exhaust is probably one of the nicest I have ever seen from an OEM, I hope it works out for you.
 

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I've had the SRT stick exhaust on my car for 7 months now. I can tell you my impressions.

1. I like the sound.
2. There IS some loss of bottom end torque. If you're driving keeps the tach needle below 1900 rpm's, then pass on the SRT exhaust. You'll find yourself "rowing the boat" to keep up momentum when going up grades after flat level stretches. That is, push pedal, downshift to get revs up, get up more speed, let off pedal after reaching desired speed, watch rpm's drop off as car slows slightly, push in pedal again to downshift again to get up to speed again.... That's the "rowing the boat" effect and it's particularly noticeable at 55 mph. 99% of my driving is between 75 and 80 mph for my commute. The rpm's rarely drop below 2300. The SRT exhaust works great at that point. No improvement or loss of gas mileage.

So, you make the call.

Greg
 

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Hi CanadianKnight ,

Since you asked, I'll give you an honest assessment. I bought my SE in May of 2010 and put 10k miles on it with the stock single exhaust. I drive 150 miles a day for a commute. As I've said, 99% of that is highway miles (1 toll booth stop each way and sometimes heavy traffic). My speed averages between 70 and 80 miles per hour. It's a mix of gentle hills and long flat stretches. At my average speeds, the tach needle sits between 2100 to 2400 RPM's. I had the SRT six-speed exhaust installed last September. It's the type with two separate canister type mufflers flowing into dual suitcase style resonators. As you are aware, the SRT exhaust has the largest diameter pipes available from the factory. That's 2.75" at it's widest point. I had them welded in. I got the SRT exhaust at a giveaway price and installation was no challenge for the muffler shop guys. Simply put, it's cheap duals for the SE.

After the SRT duals install, the driving character of the car changed. The duals sounded much better than the stock single pipe. Above 1900 rpm's, the car would take off! The tach needle swung up to red line so fast, I had to consciously keep glancing at it to make sure I wouldn't over rev the engine when I stepped on it. I could hear the engine better as well. Stock pipes produced very little drone, just a nice rumble. So, these pipes seemed to be perfect for my car.

However, I also noticed that at speeds BELOW 1900 rpm, the car would lose forward momentum when going up a grade. I had to consciously push in on the pedal to keep steady rpms. The car would get louder to let me know something was happening, but, the rpm's would stay the same. Only if I forced a downshift to get ABOVE 1900 rpms would anything actually happen as far as forward motion. At a steady 55 miles per hour, this becomes somewhat of a pain. The car is geared so high (numerically low), that when left in full automatic, the transmission tries to keep the rpms down to about 1500. As a consequence, in small increments, you're on the gas, off the gas, on the gas, off the gas and so on trying to maintain that speed. It pretty much forces me to drive faster than 55. Obviously, this is caused by the slight loss of torque below the magic 1900 rpm figure. Like Sammy Haggar used to say "I can't drive 55!". My solution was to simply put the car in Autostick mode and drive the snot out of it! I don't do much city driving so this works for me. My recommendation. If you do much urban driving with hills, go for the smaller RT exhaust and pass on the SRT. Frankly, now with 34,000 miles on the clock, I'm STILL happy with mine.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Greg... thanks for that info, and the honest feedback .. AND for the pic! Much appreciated! :)

Actually, it IS the SRT six-speed exhaust I'm getting done. Exactly as you did...same layout. Also I'm at about 10k miles since last March when I bought mine. (Is yours Inferno Red? Kinda appears to be! Now we're too alike!) ;)

While my commute isn't as long as yours (150miles? Wow!) it is almost all highway speed. (It's about 40 miles per day)

Most of my urban driving doesn't involve a lot of hills, so I think I'm good there.

I've decided to go ahead with the swap... thanks so much for the info. Guess I'll hafta re-learn how to handle her! Your experience is super-valuable though.. now I know what to expect when I get it done. :)


Cheers,

CK
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey all!

Just so y'all know... got it done on Tuesday.



It worked out very well! Sounds great, looks great. Barely noticed any power drop-off at lower RPMs, and she feels more responsive when you put it to the floor.

The exhaust tips stick out a tiny bit further (about 1/3-1/2 inch) than a stock installation, so I took it back to the installer, and we both walked underneath the car. Their install was perfect. Everything hanging straight. They DID miss putting an additional heat-shield under the driver-side muffler (by the gas tank..eep!) so they put one on. Other than that, top-notch work...nice 'n clean. Great job! (So why the tips stick out a bit further, I have no idea?)

Very very happy! Thanks for the input everyone!
 

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I mentioned on another thread that I bought the Corsa Extreme 6.1L exhaust from a fellow member here on the forums. $1000 shipped (with 2,500 miles.)

I was thinking of getting the JBA headers prior to installation for the best results. Doet that even seem necessary to either of you guys?

Thanks,

Mike
 

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