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Hi all. My first posting here. Dodge and I recently gave birth to our 2014 R/T Classic (ordered in early September, born on October 10, 2013). I very much wanted to stick with a retro look, so I didn't go for the nav screen. I love the look. I have the 274 watt Boston Acoustic audio system that comes standard on the R/T Classics, which is fine since I don't want the base so loud that the neighbors feel me coming up the street. I'm mostly a country music guy, and the vocals on the audio system are fantastic - just what I envisioned. But, the upper range appears to be lacking in clarity (the cymbals, for example). I'm not knowledgeable enough to describe it any other way. I tried turning up the treble using my radio feature, but that doesn't really help. I took the car to a local audio guy who is rated the highest in customer satisfaction and his recommendation was for me to spend $1,500 in sound dampening my car doors and then go from there. That seems quite a bit high to me. He also said that since everything is controlled by the radio, I really need to switch to a nav screen because all of the upgraded radios in today's market are integrated with touchscreen technology, and the switchover was another $1,500 or something like that (I pretty much stopped listening at that point).

Has anyone else had a similar experience with their Challenger as far as the upper range? Is it true that I'm limited as far as what I can expect in my audio performance because I want to keep the old-style radio look instead of a touch screen? Should I consider a bigger amp? Maybe different tweeters?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Oh Boy.....

My friend, you have found the worm in the apple. I'm 13 R/TC 6Spd with same stereo. I too find it rather poor for fidelity and thought to make some upgrades. Chrysler, in my honest opinion laid an egg with this system compleatly. Sound deadener is icing on a good cake, and this ain't a good cake. Check out the posts here and see what the audiophiles say. In short, gut it or live with it, and the first option is neither cheap or easy.
I'll tackle mine last, I'm spending my time and money doing performance upgrades. God I'd love to catch in a dark ally the pencil neck that thought this was a good choice to put in these cars. In short, The system sucks, period.
 

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Do you know what that system has for speakers in the front? Is it a full range speaker in the door and a full range speaker in the dash? I did some Googling and couldn't find much.

My hunch is that the front speakers are lacking high frequencies. If that is the case, I think you could improve on that by swapping out the front speakers with something better. (I like silk dome tweeters. They tend to be less shrill sounding.) I just swapped out all four of my speakers and it wasn't that difficult. You might try doing it yourself. You're not going to get the perfect sound that some guys strive for, but it sounds like you are only trying to improve the upper frequencies.

I have the base stereo system in my car. After I swapped out the four speakers, it sounds pretty decent when the car is sitting in the garage and I'm playing a good recording. The volume is pretty limited, but the sound is clean and it goes loud enough for me. When running down the highway, a lot is lost due to wind noise, road noise, and my exhaust. I have a very expensive 2-channel home audio setup, so I know what excellent sound is. That's going to be very costly and difficult to obtain in a car going down the road. It can be done, but I've just never wanted to invest that much in car audio.
 

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Trouble is

The trouble with the R/TC system is the "canned" EQ settings and the bridging out of the head unit. If memory serves me correctly ...Doors are base only, dash is highs, and rear deck is mids.
Basically your screwed out of the ability to upgrade to 2ways, 3ways, or 4ways in any of the three locations because bridging does not let pass any of the other frequencies out side of the before mentioned configuration. I've always made significant advances just by ditching the factory paper and using superior aftermarket speakers. No help in this case. but yes, if highs are only complaint, switching out dash may help.
 

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You can swap out just the highs in the dash and maybe get all you're looking for. Irish 347 is right. The factory amplifier controls the frequencies (highpassing the dash and low passing the doors). This makes easy plug and play options difficult. If you want to keep it pretty cheap, try swapping just the corner dash speakers out for some 3.5" coaxials (with a tweeter sitting on top of the woofer), like this:


If you want to get wilder than that, we can talk about what works and what doesn't in a Challenger. Deadener can be a very worthwhile upgrade, but not the first step, especially in a car built for speed. The factory system has muddy bass, very little upper end, and weak amplification, just like almost every other OEM solution you'll find. Dodge didn't make it easy to upgrade it either.
 

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Sounds like Dodge tried to get fancy with the system and muffed it.

If the door speakers are not receiving highs, it would be worth swapping out the dash speakers and see what happens.

I guess a guy would have to swap out the amp if he wanted all speakers to run full range? Or, is there an external crossover that could be by-passed?
 

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Exactly

Regrettably there is not, all canned in the head unit. The R/TC has "Uconnect" hands free system to complicate matters more.
 

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Audio Control LC7i or LC8i placed between the amp and speakers will sum the channels together to produce a full range signal via RCA's to an aftermarket amp.
You maintain all Uconnect functions and HU controls.
 

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that audio shop is raping you, they always do and its sad. Sound dampening is good and all and would help in your doors and rear deck but for $1500 bones, that's just stupid. i have spent about $170 on dampening and that's between the rear deck and doors.

You can try and swap the dash mids with a different driver and that can make or break it. It could also make things worse.

Using something from audiocontrol would allow you to maintain your stock deck but at the end of the day, it is still limiting you.

It is also a bit difficult to maintain the frequency extension on the bottom end if you swap out speakers. Most component sets out there that are mostly drag and drop wont get down that deep which means you'd have to be OK with that or go a subwoofer route. I have my infinite baffled sub in my rear deck and i'll say that for not having a box back there, it more than comfortably takes care of the low end.

Its fun trying to do this on a budget but there is definitely a base cost involved here that you need to achieve or your upgrades wont be worth a shit. We all have gone different routes in here, made mistakes and redone things due to boredom or sheer unhappiness. I'd say try replacing the dash mids first and then decide from there.
 

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that audio shop is raping you, they always do and its sad. Sound dampening is good and all and would help in your doors and rear deck but for $1500 bones, that's just stupid. i have spent about $170 on dampening and that's between the rear deck and doors.
Keep in mind that's probably $1500 installed, and the labor on installing deadener can take a long time. Their installer's time is worth something. If you've got a weekend or two to DIY you can save a lot of money though definitely. It's not skilled labor. It's just popping some plastic rivets and unscrewing some phillips head screws.

You can try and swap the dash mids with a different driver and that can make or break it. It could also make things worse.
It's probably not going to make things worse if you stick to a mainstream 3.5" coaxial, but your results will definitely be limited. Bump the midrange/treble score up from a D- to a C-, maybe a C+ with a better coaxial.

SuBXeRo is more correct on the bass though. The limitations present in the factory system are going to make just swapping the door speakers out much less worthy of spending money on. Weak amplification and fixed crossovers mean you're between a rock and a hard place until you can get rid of the factory amp. That means something like that audiocontrol piece, or a new aftermarket CD player.
 
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