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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’m planning a project whereby I need to run a cable from the interior to the engine bay.

I’ve identified the grommet down by the ebrake pedal on the driver side floor.

It looks like a great candidate. Only has hood release cable running through it - no eléctrical. Also, looks like there’s some existing space in the grommet for my 1 cable. And finally - very accessible on the interior side. You can literally see it without pulling any panels.

Here’s my question:
Does anyone know how to fish this back up on the engine bay side? I popped the hood and couldn’t see it from the engine side. I don’t have a lift so can’t get underneath right now.

Has anyone fished a cable through this grommet? Any insights?

Thanks
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Just In case your wanting to run something to the battery, you know the battery is in the trunk right?

Not making any judgment on your knowledge of the car, just making sure in case you’re not familiar with it. It would be a helluva kick in the pants to go to all the work of running the wire through the firewall only to find out it was unnecessary.
 

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Battery is in the trunk but you can run power to front fuse box or the jumper terminal, i ran my dixie horn through that grommet and to the front.
 

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Tha
I’m planning a project whereby I need to run a cable from the interior to the engine bay.
Has anyone fished a cable through this grommet? Any insights? Thanks


That would be me! Not sure what your meaning of cable is. Took a six inch piece of Brazing rod and sharpened one end to a point. Soldered the electrical wire to the other end there you go, just like a needle and thread, worked perfectly. Cheers!...




HOT ROD ON
 

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The grommet above the brake pedal is easy to fish a coat hanger (coated with dish soap) through, and is readily visible from engine bay.

That said, wiring is cleaner and easier using the trunk fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Just In case your wanting to run something to the battery, you know the battery is in the trunk right?

Not making any judgment on your knowledge of the car, just making sure in case you’re not familiar with it. It would be a helluva kick in the pants to go to all the work of running the wire through the firewall only to find out it was unnecessary.
  • No problem. No offense taken at all. Always happy to get a sanity check before tearing into a project.
Here's what I'm planning on doing:
  • For this project I'm installing four strips of ambient footwell RGB lighting in my interior.
    • I'm going to T-Tap 12V for the RGB controller from the footwell light
  • Where the engine bay grommet comes in, is I want to add an additional a strip of RGB up under the hood. My idea is to have the hood scoop glow on when I hit the keyfob.
    • To make it behave the way I'm thinking - I need to run this single engine bay RGB strip off of the same controller that runs the footwell lights.
    • This controller will reside in the interior of the car
      • So, will need to run a 4 conductor cable through the grommet to connect the controller to this single RGB strip.
      • Cable is probably pretty flexible and compliant though. 18ga. Looks like this:
      • And If I can't fish it with the connector attached, I'll just chop it off and butt splice solder it back together, after it goes through the grommet
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The grommet above the brake pedal is easy to fish a coat hanger (coated with dish soap) through, and is readily visible from engine bay.

That said, wiring is cleaner and easier using the trunk fuse box.
When I looked from above the engine with the hood open - I couldn't see the grommet that I was shooting for (the same grommet I eyed on the interior above the emergency brake). The one I was thinking of looks like it would pop out somewhere really low and possibly blocked by a fender liner. I found this picture of a classic Mopar that shows probably where it pops out. (see image below). I just wish I could see it, to determine if there's a bunch of stuff in front that would make it hard to fish. Hoping someone used this exact grommet previously...

 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Coming through inside the wheel well doesn’t get you into the engine bay without more snaking of the wire back through the suspension to get to the engine bay. You’ll also be traversing the exhaust by going that route, so could be tricky.

I have not run anything through the firewall on one of these cars, but if I had to, and I were coming through on the driver’s side, I think I would use the steering column as either my access point or my point of reference if I couldn’t get it through there.

By point of reference, I mean it’s visible on both inside and outside, so wherever you try to come through, being able to visually see the point where the column comes through and its relation to the traversal hole should be useful to find that same hole on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Found a video tutorial on how to change a broken hood latch cable on a Chrysler 300. Substantially similar. They have a great bunch of shots of the hood latch grommet and also the grommet right above that one. Also they shot video from the interior as well as the engine side. Perfect reference. I queued this YouTube up to where the grommets get shown:

If I embed the video, I don’t think I can queue it. So, here’s a link out to YouTube instead:


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Went in and found the same grommets from the video in my own car. Added a few pictures.

These look easy to get to in the picture, but I had to shove my camera down that hatch to get these pictures. No good way to get two hands in there. I don’t like the hood latch boot anymore for this. The big one above looks attractive. But, it’s surprisingly NOT sloppy. Almost seems risky to poke through it. I wish there was an unused grommet I could utilize. Would hate to give dealers a “get out of jail free card” on all future electrical warranty issues I may encounter - just because they see I messily poked through a boot that has a harness in it. Just couldn’t see a clean way to do it with only one hand and no visibility. Not sure if poking through from the inside is any better.



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The other issue I foresaw with those particular boots through that cowl hatch, is that I couldn’t easily get a tube of silicone in there to seal up any hole I would make in the boot.

You could get in there no problem - just can’t see where you’re aiming the tube. Real mess potential.

Does anyone know how the glove compartment side looks as far as grommet access?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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You may have to nix the idea of going through the firewall and see about powering it from inside the engine bay. Is that what the wires you’re trying to poke through will do, power the LED strip(s)?
 

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You may have to nix the idea of going through the firewall and see about powering it from inside the engine bay. Is that what the wires you’re trying to poke through will do, power the LED strip(s)?
  • To make it behave the way I'm thinking - I need to run this single engine bay RGB strip off of the same controller that runs the footwell lights.
A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
OP here. Tying off this thread.
I finished it. Ended up using the hood latch cable boot.

Upside of this boot (as opposed to electrical grommet): no risk of electrical accidents. Also, the boot pushes into the car towards the cabin. So you can work on it while it’s in the footwell (as opposed to if it pushed into the engine side and you only had room to use one hand). It doesn’t come all the way into the footwell area though. You have to lay on your back and still do gymnastics to get your hands way up on the firewall. Also, it was more doable for me to add silicone to seal up my wire exit hole while the boot was still hanging on the inside of the car (before pushing the boot back into the firewall hole)

Downside for this boot: It’s really thick walled and also a funny conical shape.
So you can’t just cut a little X shape and punch through. The boot is so thick - it’s almost self sealing.

Here’s the new thread I started with the lights:


 
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