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OK, My 09 R/T is getting its first emissions testing done. I just relocated to a part of northern Va that requires emissions testing. The test is now due. I took it the other day and the inspector said it rejected because it comes up not ready. He does the regular inspection for me and knows the car isn't driven but around 1000 miles a year. I also had to replace the battery a couple of months ago as the original finally died. He had me leave and go drive it for a half hour and bring it back and it failed again. Same code. He said to take it on a long drive over the wknd and we can try again. Little does he know, shortly after buying it I took it to Arrington and had a cam installed, and the computer was re-tuned. I also have no cats, but figured I would try anyway. I still have the original catted mid pipes which I can re-install which I'm sure I will have to. Could the lack of the cats be causing the O2 sensors not to read? or could they be turned off in the tune which is causing this? Any one know of someone that will get this passed? HE HE :D I am attaching my report.
20200531_132401.jpg
 

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What specific readiness monitor is not ready? If the converters have been removed this can affect the O2 sensor readiness monitor and will certainly affect the converter readiness monitor.

To get the car to pass emissions by having all or the right readiness monitors complete you will have to roll back the mods. I'd start with the exhaust mods. If the engine received a tune for these -- to possibly eliminate a CEL due to absence of the converters -- this may have to be undone as well.
 

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Yeah you are probably going to have to get that catted mid pipe back on.
 

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Theres a specific drive cycle to get the 02's to become ready. Most states will allow 1 not ready monitor but not 2.
Make sure engine light is not on. Thats first step. Then look up the drive cycle and follow it to the letter. O2's should pass then.
If you have no cats, it would fail just on visual inspection. Ive cut sheilds off and welded them back onto straight pipe to make the visual part work. Rest is in the drive cycle
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There are no CEL's, I figured I may have to reinstall the cats, but I'm thinking the tune included turning off the sensors possibly to avoid a CEL. This was done 8 or 9 yrs ago now and I am 5 hrs away from Arrington now and Thats if they're still in business. I think they were bought out years ago and that facility closed. American Hi performance is close by, I can pay them a visit and see whats next. The only mods I have are the cam and no cats and a tune, Hopefully I can avoid a cam change. I guess I will reinstall the cats first and see if this affects it.
 

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even if you reinstall the cats, it will not help. The tune has the rear 02's off. Thats what reads cats. Id check the drive cycle and see if that helps. If not then off to the tuner to adjust it slightly
 

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You need to drive south of Culpeper Virginia to get the car inspected. Geesh,
NOVA is just 'maryland-lite',

Go to Danville or South Boston , Staunton and further south on I-81.
May save from re-installing parts.
Parrott ( SWVA)
 

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even if you reinstall the cats, it will not help. The tune has the rear 02's off. Thats what reads cats. Id check the drive cycle and see if that helps. If not then off to the tuner to adjust it slightly
Agree with the tune having the rear O2 sensors turned off.

However, a drive cycle won't help if the tune has the rear O2 sensors off. One can drive the car til the wheels fall off but if the #2 O2 sensors are tuned to off/ignore the readiness monitor for these will never be set to complete.

While often a region will allow for one maybe even 2 readiness monitors not set to complete I would have to believe neither of these would be included. The O2 sensors and the converters are very critical to the engine meeting its target emissions.
 

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I was an inspector for emissions. It doesnt matter what ones are not "done". The secondary o2's are for the cats,not the engine. Thats their only job, check cat efficiency. Drive cycle should read the upstream and still make the switch to "ready". The ecu must monitor the upstream ones to make the engine run correctly. Try the drive cycle first. Just remember engine needs to be cold. Usually takes an 8 hr cold soak then a proper drive cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You need to drive south of Culpeper Virginia to get the car inspected. Geesh,
NOVA is just 'maryland-lite',

Go to Danville or South Boston , Staunton and further south on I-81.
May save from re-installing parts.
Parrott ( SWVA)
Problem here is the car is now registered in the "city of Alexandria". Regardless of where its inspected, an emissions inspection is required for this area.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was an inspector for emissions. It doesnt matter what ones are not "done". The secondary o2's are for the cats,not the engine. Thats their only job, check cat efficiency. Drive cycle should read the upstream and still make the switch to "ready". The ecu must monitor the upstream ones to make the engine run correctly. Try the drive cycle first. Just remember engine needs to be cold. Usually takes an 8 hr cold soak then a proper drive cycle.
When I went for the first test, the engine was cold, hadn't been driven for a week. I took it to the interstate and got it warm, even running the AC to help heat up, but as soon as I got it there,he hooked it right up and within a few mins he said its not ready, go and drive it some more. He even asked if I jumped it to get it there and I said no, it starts and drives every time, He asked if the battery had been dead or even new, there would be no info stored and it would have to get some run time on it. I went out and drove it 60 miles on the interstate today, hoping it will maybe do something for it?
 

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When I went for the first test, the engine was cold, hadn't been driven for a week. I took it to the interstate and got it warm, even running the AC to help heat up, but as soon as I got it there,he hooked it right up and within a few mins he said its not ready, go and drive it some more. He even asked if I jumped it to get it there and I said no, it starts and drives every time, He asked if the battery had been dead or even new, there would be no info stored and it would have to get some run time on it. I went out and drove it 60 miles on the interstate today, hoping it will maybe do something for it?
Ya, thats not a drive cycle. Each of the monitors has a specific way to set. You need a proper drive cycle and follow it to the letter. Most wont get over 20mph for a certain distance with idling and driving in specific way. Google "drive cycle for emissions" for your car. Then drive it in that manner.
 

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O2 Sensor Monitor Drive Trace

Pre-Conditioning Requirements:

- MIL must be off.

Driving Procedure:

1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).

2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed above 25 mph for 2 minutes.

3) Stop and idle for 30 seconds.

4) Smoothly accelerate to a speed between 30 and 40 mph.

5) Repeat steps 3 & 4 five (5) times.

G. O2 Sensor Heater Monitor Drive Trace

Pre-Conditioning Requirements:

- MIL must be off.

Driving Procedure:

1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).

2) Shut engine off and leave vehicle off for ten minutes.

If readiness status of all monitors do not switch to “complete,” ensure preconditions are met, turn the ignition switch OFF, then repeat the drive cycle. Completing the Dodge Charger drive cycle above should set the emission monitors required to pass the smog check.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
O2 Sensor Monitor Drive Trace

Pre-Conditioning Requirements:

- MIL must be off.

Driving Procedure:

1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).

2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed above 25 mph for 2 minutes.

3) Stop and idle for 30 seconds.

4) Smoothly accelerate to a speed between 30 and 40 mph.

5) Repeat steps 3 & 4 five (5) times.

G. O2 Sensor Heater Monitor Drive Trace

Pre-Conditioning Requirements:

- MIL must be off.

Driving Procedure:

1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).

2) Shut engine off and leave vehicle off for ten minutes.

If readiness status of all monitors do not switch to “complete,” ensure preconditions are met, turn the ignition switch OFF, then repeat the drive cycle. Completing the Dodge Charger drive cycle above should set the emission monitors required to pass the smog check.
WOW....what a PITA! ok, thats gonna be pretty difficult to try to perform here where we have stop signs and traffic lights every other block. So let me ask this....I drove it today on the interstate for some time then in some stop and go traffic. Thats not enough for it to read or prepare? For doing this procedure, I have to go thru a few stop signs and traffic lights before getting onto any road where i can drive above 25 mph. I assume hitting the brakes will kill it right there.
 

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No unfortunately its not. If you dont drive it the right way, it will just skip over it til it does get driven right. Most drive cycles are run at lower speeds. 60 is not good for the cycle, neither is interstate driving. Sucks when its in a busy area and your trying to get it to pass.
Try to stay on the local rds. In town might be better for you with the lights. Getting the #4 part might be hard in town tho. Just drive easy when your trying. Smooth with no hard acceleration.
 

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Another option is to see if you have a local smog shop that will simulate the drive cycles on their dyno. I had to do this when my LS3 in my Trans Am wouldn’t enable even after 1K miles of driving.
 

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Get an OBDII scanner that can read readiness state. I know my ScanGauge II has the procedure in it. And check your laws on what all is required, I ran into that on my 2002 T&C Limited, in PA the number of tests that need to be completed depends on the year of the vehicle. I reset the count by disconnecting the battery and every time I drove it I checked, when it finally completed I didn't turn it off until I could drop it off at the inspection station. So it never ran another cycle to possibly throw a code.
 

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Guaranteed your rear o2's are turned off in the tune and as stated you can drive it until the wheels come off but it aint going to help. You need a new tune with those monitors turned on AND install some cats.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Guaranteed your rear o2's are turned off in the tune and as stated you can drive it until the wheels come off but it aint going to help. You need a new tune with those monitors turned on AND install some cats.
Yep, I'm thinking this is whats gonna have to happen. I still have the original mid pipes, they are basically brand new still LOL, I will bolt those back on and make an appt with a hi-perf shop thats minutes away. They have a dyno and can re-tune it.
 

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Yep, I'm thinking this is whats gonna have to happen. I still have the original mid pipes, they are basically brand new still LOL, I will bolt those back on and make an appt with a hi-perf shop thats minutes away. They have a dyno and can re-tune it.
Many cars from different manufacturers pass emissions and get the o2's"ready" without the secondary o2's installed. Besides your still going to need the drive cycle performed to make it pass. Probably will be worse cause when they touch the tune, none of your monitors are going to be ready and your going to need the drive cycle anyways.
 
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