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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so im losing my mind over these valve stem seals. When I did my cam swap a few months ago my car started burning oil and found out all 4 valve stem seals popped off and where sitting on the valve stem itself(see pic). I replaced all seals and they all were nice and tight on their spot. Now only a thousand miles later and all 4 popped off again. They're on the passenger side exhaust valves. I used fel pro the first time and I think melling this time.
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Discussion Starter #3
Are the seals compatible with the seal attachment interface at the guides?
They should be, I ordered them from rock auto for my specific car. They also haven't popped off any of the the other 12 valves
 

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They should be, I ordered them from rock auto for my specific car. They also haven't popped off any of the the other 12 valves
Do all the valve stems seals have the same method for connecting to the guides? And on a related note are all the guides the same in this regard?

Obviously I'm thinking the seals may not all be the same or since the same guides shed the seals two times the guides may not all be the same when it comes to how the guide and seal join.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea looking at it it all looks the same and they all use the same seal by part #
I noticed a scratch on two of the valves I checked so far that are closer towards the top but may be just low enough to catch the seal. Idk how it could catch the seal enough to rip it off tho, because they sit on there pretty damn tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Edit: disregard, it's just a false picture on that website.

Now one thing I found that's interesting is on a Mopar parts supplier they show a completely different kind of seal. But all the rockauto seals and the seal that I originally had use the type shown in the first post.
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^this is the one mopar shows
 

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Now one thing I found that's interesting is on a Mopar parts supplier they show a completely different kind of seal. But all the rockauto seals and the seal that I originally had use the type shown in the first post.

^this is the one mopar shows
Yeah but if you look up that part number it does not show this.
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But this?
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Discussion Starter #8

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Yea just saw that, that sites picture is just wrong, so I guess that brings me back to can a small scratch really cause those seals to come off like that?
Doubt it. What cam and springs are you running again?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
392 cam, Mopar Performance springs, Manley pushrods. Just from wiggling the valve stem on the top side I can't feel any play so I don't really think guides are the issue either.
 

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You know I have looked around and I could not find an example of an eagle 5.7 having a one piece shim/seal. I think my memory and that hemi book are wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You know I have looked around and I could not find an example of an eagle 5.7 having a one piece shim/seal. I think my memory and that hemi book are wrong.
Right that's what I thought, ik the pre eagles did because I did those on my brother's 05. Now on the seals it's all 4 on one head on the exhaust side. Could it be the lift is too high and catches the seal somehow on this one side? Maybe pushrods are out of spec? I don't have anything accurate enough to measure them unfortunately.
 

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If that were the case I think a lot of people would have valve stems popping off...including me.

As for the seals...the FSM is wrong too then as it says the seal and shim are integrated.
 

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I know it is a different engine in this thread but the 2.2 guys apparently use hemi valve stem seals.

And apparently there is yet another style of hemi seal
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just by looking at the seals they really don't tell any stories. Only thing that's different from the one that was just on it and a new one is that the new ones hole for the valve stem is slightly smaller but that's probably just how it wears out to fit on the valve.
 

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Just by looking at the seals they really don't tell any stories. Only thing that's different from the one that was just on it and a new one is that the new ones hole for the valve stem is slightly smaller but that's probably just how it wears out to fit on the valve.
Are the seals you have metal on the portion that goes over the valve guide...or is it rubber all around?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One of these is new and the other is a "newish" used one
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Yea looking at it it all looks the same and they all use the same seal by part #
I noticed a scratch on two of the valves I checked so far that are closer towards the top but may be just low enough to catch the seal. Idk how it could catch the seal enough to rip it off tho, because they sit on there pretty damn tight.
Take cam lift and factor in rocker arm ratio and then with the valve fully closed measure the distance from the scratch to the valve seal. You can use a dial caliber to get close enough to know if the scratch will reach the seal when the valve is fully open.

By this I mean you open the caliper jaws to the lift amount and then hold the one jaw at the top of the seal and see where the other jaw is. If it up past the scratch this is a good sign the scratch reaches the seal. In my opinion that ain't good even if it may not account for the seal coming loose.

Even if the scratch is not why the seal is coming loose if the scratch reaches the seal I'd be worried about the scratch leading to early valve stem seal leakage.

Also, you really should check each valve for proper lift. Maybe you got some wrong rocker arms in the mix? Or even the cam was ground wrong on some lobes?

You need to check everything. At this level of engine work there are no shortcuts and nothing should be left to chance.
 

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Looking at your old and new valve stem, I don't see any impact marks on the top of your old valve stem. How are you installing the valve stems? Aren't they supposed to be tapped in place with a socket or something...or do they just snap in place? The FSM shows no info how to install.


This guy removes it with a special tool but does not show how he installs it.
 
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