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Discussion Starter #1
I installed my new Vortech V3 today and let me explain what happened.

I installed the Boost a pump and ran the wires to underneath the back seat where Vortech says I will find a Blue Wire with a Red tracer to cut and use. There was no Blue Wire with a red tracer, so I saw the closest thing...a Blue with an orange tracer. Try it with a meter and it has 12V+ when key is in run position. Good. Now I cut the wire and car dies...gotta be the fuel pump right? I don't know but car ran fine until I was just about to get on the Highway and I feel an abrupt "Boom" is all I can describe. Car dies, I am on side of road no cell phone as I was just going for a quick run. I start thinking what it could be and it occurs to me that the car died just like when I cut the wire so I go to the boost a pump and it smells burn't. Unplugged and twisted my key ring apart as I had nothing else and jumped the terminals in the boost a pump's plug, wrap it with my tee shirt and blammo, she starts and I am now home.

SO, aside from the fact that I need a new boost a pump and I'm lucky I didn't fry any of the Car's electronics, WHAT IS the wire I'm looking for in the plug under the driver's rear seat on a 2009 SRT8?

I am beat (Been at this since 6:30 AM) but at least it iis installed and running...just not with the boost a pump.

Also, any advantage to getting Kenne Bell's BAP or just get another from Vortech (Who is blatantly using MSD's product with their sticker on it)?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, and by the way, I purchased this used from another member here so I know the BAP worked...
 

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how did you wire the BAP? Is it wired to be always on, and not triggered by the boost switch? I am guessing maybe. If that is the case, the stock wiring isn't strong enough to handle that. You need to upgrade the wiring and put a relay in to trigger it
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It is wired to Battery and ground. Then the orange wire goes to the factory wire that goes from the harness to the pump. The other large red wire goes to the pump. I took this method of wiring to go on when the factory sends power to the pump with added "Power" when vacuum starts to turn to boost. Therin lies another problem, being it was used, the instructions show a longer red wire and a shorter one and the previous owner cut the wires equal length so maybe I wired it right but the reds were reversed. Another testament to the really crappy install instructions that come with the Vortech.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mounted it where instructions told me to, under the cowel on driver's side. Connections crimped very well (I used to do custom car audio/alarms for a living). The instructions don't give a pin out for the 4 prong plug, they just say "longer red wire" so I used logic to figure the Input power would be across from each other and the red/orange supposed to be used for fuel pump to be across from each other as well. Still don't know if the blue w/orange tracer is the wire I was supposed to use but see my first post to explain why I used it.
 

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Well the crimps are your problem. Every time I have seen an issue with a BAP install it was due to not soldering the connections. Solder is the best way regardless, but especially for the BAP and the importance and heat that can be generated. It is possible that the wires were swapped I suppose, but hard to say, blue and orange is the correct wire on the car end of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok, so then you do have it wired to only kick in when the boost get applied. Interesting.
I ASSUME that's how it's supposed to work as it has a constant power and ground and then 2 wires which break the factory fuel pump positive lead AND a vacuum tap to "Read" what condition it's in. Don't understand what you mean by "Interesting" as that's how it's supposed to be wired/what it's supposed to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well the crimps are your problem. Every time I have seen an issue with a BAP install it was due to not soldering the connections. Solder is the best way regardless, but especially for the BAP and the importance and heat that can be generated. It is possible that the wires were swapped I suppose, but hard to say, blue and orange is the correct wire on the car end of things.
Dude, I have connected serious 500 watt amps using crimp connections. I highly doubt that the crimps are the problem. Have you guys ever installed the Vortech BAP that maybe you have the pin out? I guess it really doesn't matter as I'm going to have to buy another BAP from either Vortech or Kenne Bell and I guess I will know at that time when getting a new one.

Do you guys sell BAPs? If so, how much? I'm gonna be needing fuel rails I guess also so I can hook up the fuel pressure guage I picked up from you guys on Wednesday also.

I swear, it's like painting the hallway...now I need to change the carpet because the walls look so good...:)
 

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Dude, I have connected serious 500 watt amps using crimp connections. I highly doubt that the crimps are the problem. Have you guys ever installed the Vortech BAP that maybe you have the pin out? I guess it really doesn't matter as I'm going to have to buy another BAP from either Vortech or Kenne Bell and I guess I will know at that time when getting a new one.

Do you guys sell BAPs? If so, how much? I'm gonna be needing fuel rails I guess also so I can hook up the fuel pressure guage I picked up from you guys on Wednesday also.

I swear, it's like painting the hallway...now I need to change the carpet because the walls look so good...:)

We can get you a replacement BAP yes. As far as the crimping, I can;t say for certain that is the issue, but I would HIGHLY recommend soldering the connection, will save you alot of headaches and issues in the long run. The BAP wiring gets hot, and is important as you have seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
We can get you a replacement BAP yes. As far as the crimping, I can;t say for certain that is the issue, but I would HIGHLY recommend soldering the connection, will save you alot of headaches and issues in the long run. The BAP wiring gets hot, and is important as you have seen.
I don't have a problem soldering (As I did solder the rest of the connections like the CAC Pump) but I would be soldering to a crimp in the case of the BAP as it gets connected right to the positive stud under the hood (Which you need a ring connection to attach it to) anyway. The key with crimps is using the right crimpers...ONLY KLEIN. You could hang off of the crimps I make, literally.

If you say the factory wire I used is right, that makes me feel alot better and I would bet that when the new BAP comes I'm gonna find the red wires were backwards. Car ran fine all around the neighborhood for 10 minutes until I started to "Get it" onto the Sawgrass Expy and it just petered out.

The car is seriously fast now. Wish I could try it out but without the BAP I'm afraid to even drive it for fear of leaning it out.
 

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I'm not sure about a longer/shorter red wire, but I believe ( and would have to check to be certain ) the red wire with the inline fuse was the input to the BAP and the other red wire went to the pump.
 

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What gauge wire are you using from the high voltage side of the BAP to the blue/orange wire by the fuel hat? You should be running at least 12 gauge. Anything smaller than 12 gauge will not handle the 14V to 20V your pushing to the OEM fuel pump.

When I installed my FlowCharger BAP, I didn't cut the blue/orange wire, rather I cut away a 1/4 section of insulation and soldered 10 gauge wire to the OEM 16 gauge blue/orange wire. I spliced into the blue/orange wire about two inches from the connector where it connects to the fuel hat. Knock on wood, but I haven't had any problem with my BAP.

Most of the LXers install a relay when using a BAP. Here's how Hemi~C~ wired his BAP:
 

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I used the Kenne Bell BAP on my twin turbo set up.I installed a relay that would be triggered by the factory fuel pump feed.Should be the blue with orange tracer wire at the # 5 terminal.The relay will send direct battery feed to the BAP.The BAP will then send increased battery feed to the pump blue and orange wire.



 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok guys. I really appreciate all the wiring diagrams. (You guys are the BEST! Talk about rallying around a Brother)

I am well versed in electronics and wiring of all kinds. (I DO fix Elevators for a living :) I don't understand why people add relays to feed the positive side of their BAPs as the BAP IS the relay...at least in the case of the one I have. IT gets DIRECT Battery connection and uses the wire coming from the car's harness to the fuel pump (Where you cut it to install the BAP) to turn it on. After that, it is up to the vacuum controller inside the BAP to decide what level of voltage to send to the pump. The only reason I can see to add a relay is if the BAP is staying on somehow after the key is being turned off and is killing your battery.

Yea, I was a bit punchy after the install yesterday and just realized I put an inline fuse holder (Which you should do everytime you add an accessory to your battery terminal) where the BAP gets it's feed (From the + stud under the hood) and guessed at 20 amps. This was probably not enough and it remains to be seen if just replacing the fuse will solve my problem or if the excess current draw and the fuse blowing under load actually damaged the BAP as I DID smell something from the area of the BAP when it took the fuse out.

I REALLY appreciate all of you giving me all of your feedback and should have (And maybe I will) install thee BAP in the trunk like RICHSRT8 as it is a cleaner install and gives less wiring closer to the battery which can't hurt.
 

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I REALLY appreciate all of you giving me all of your feedback and should have (And maybe I will) install thee BAP in the trunk like RICHSRT8 as it is a cleaner install and gives less wiring closer to the battery which can't hurt.
I installed my BAP in the trunk as well.




 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, the crappy piece of [email protected]*t fuse holder which came with the Vortech coupled with the fact that I only had a 20 Amp fuse in it (Which Blew, that's why car went stoppie real quick) was my problem.

BAP is still good and I just got a nice heavy duty fuse holder and a 50 Amp fuse which will blow if shorted but will be enough capacity for the BAP. The only draw back I see with mounting Vortech's BAP in the trunk is that I would then have to run a vacuum line back there (It has a vacuum line attached to it so it "Knows" when to Boost)

That is why they tell you to mount it under the cowel and actually give you a nice bracket to do so.

Start to finish it took me 12 Hours by myself in my garage no lift.

I did have to buy a right angle drill which I could use for various other projects so that was Ok I guess.

Here are a couple of pics.

Now all I need to do is buy some billet fuel rails as I guess nobody makes a good (Pretty Looking) fuel pressure sender adapter for our car yet.
 

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