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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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If you have the base audio system, there is no factory-installed amplifier. The head-unit pushes ~12w RMS per channel out to 4 channels (2 front and 2 rear), to which 6 speakers are wired (2 per channel up front and 1 per channel in rear). The speakers’ impedance is a mix of 4 and 8 ohm.

If you have the Alpine upgraded factory system, there is a factory installed amp that pushes ~20w RMS per channel to 6 channels, each connected to one speaker. The channels are crossed over inside the amplifier so as to attenuate frequencies the channels’ respective speaker cannot play. All speakers are 2 ohm IIRC.

Your best approach for upgrading the speakers will depend upon which of those two systems you have. You mentioned Alpine in the OP, so I’ll assume you have the latter one. This presents some challenges to upgrading that must be kept in mind.

A) you are stuck with the factory amp and it’s non-adjustable LPF/HPF settings for any channels you want to use on it.

B) you will have to purchase the necessary adapter(s) to interface with the factory amp and bypass it to use an aftermarket amplifier while still keeping the warning chimes and steering wheel controls in tact.

C) any signal you feed the aftermarket amp will likely be incomplete (not a full signal) and require some sort of summing to be of much use.

Keeping all this in mind, I would say your planned audio upgrade should be heavy on the planned part and multi-staged on the actual upgrade part.

By that I mean it is going to require a lot of research and planning just to figure out which components you need to buy to make the upgrade happen. Once you have that list, then you can start figuring out what brand/model of each component to go with (where applicable, some pieces may only have one option).

After all that has been decided upon, you might go ahead and do the install of the equipment to make sure it all works as you expected it to. Once you have things that far, then a speaker upgrade can be done to finish off the upgrade.

IDK, you can certainly try to do everything all at once, but that’s going to be a lot of work and labor and uncertainty for one upgrade, and it just strikes me as a daunting task to hope you get right in one shot.

Or maybe the smart way forward is to buy and install the speakers first and then go after all the other hardware to finish out the upgrade. Six one; half dozen the other I suppose...

Good luck with it either way!
Nuke
 

· Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
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13,525 Posts
I was big into car audio in the 90s. This thread gives me a headache 🤕.

Miss the days of bolting in a new deck, 4 new speakers, an amp and a sub myself and calling it a day (with pretty decent sound for what it was worth).
We can thank the car manufacturers for making all this such a ****-sandwich to try and upgrade.

But as bad as it seems with these Challengers, it could be worse...like with my Charger for example. It came with the base audio/uConnect setup, which means no amp, CD player, and 4.3” touch screen.

992757


Now you would think since it is the base audio setup, a headunit upgrade would be minimally invasive. You’d be wrong, too!

There are all kinds of vehicle settings and HVAC functionality integrated into the head-unit and accessible only via that touch screen. Yet the touch screen is separate from the head-unit. The head-unit is behind the CD player (behind the keyboard in my pic). So if I replace the headunit, I HAVE to keep the touch screen and it has to continue to function.

Okay, surely there is a PAC device or something for that, right? Not exactly...Metra does make a kit which will allow me to run an aftermarket headunit where the CD player is now, and it includes a new trim piece with all the buttons that would go away if I removed the CD player face. This kit also has an adapter to allow the touch screen to continue to work for the settings and HVAC controls it has now.

The catch? It’s over $400 just for that kit. Throw in the steering wheel control adapter, the antenna adapter, and other associated necessities, and I’m looking at $500 or more BEFORE I have even purchased the head-unit.

Back in the (good) old days, $500 would have purchased me the head-unit AND speakers I’d be upgrading to. But those days are gone, and never to return I’m afraid...
 
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