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I have a 2018 Challenger with the Alpine 6-speaker amplified system.
Originally, I took the cheap route and went with a Rockford Fosgate DSR-1, which handles the OEM integration as well as the DSP aspect in a single box - and it's only ~$260. While it works and it a great price for the amount of functionality you get, the tuning app is mobile-device only and it pretty limited when compared to a "real" DSP.
I also originally replaced all 6 speakers with Infinity Reference speakers.
I've since replaced the DSR-1 with the PAC AmpPro for integration and a Helix DSP.3 for DSP. This combination is WAY better than the DSR-1 solution - but it's also WAY more expensive. Instead of ~$260 for the DSR-1, it's about $250 for the AmpPro and the Helix DSP.3 retails for $700. However, the Helix is a top-of-the-line DSP. I bought mine from an out-of-country Ebay seller for $535 shipped.
I also replaced the Infinity Reference speakers with Kenwood Excelon speaker - and what a difference they made! The Kenwood KFC-XP6903C component set is a "drop-in" set that is made for Dodge vehicles (and a few others with the same setup). It comes with 6x9 midbass speakers for the doors and a 3.5" coaxial for the dash. Once tuned with the DSP, the speakers sound fantastic. I also put the KFC-X174 6.5" coaxials in the rear deck. Again, MUCH better than the Infinity Reference speakers they replaced.
As good as the Kenwood setup sounds, I've been buying up some "high-end" speakers when I find good deals - and will be replacing the dash speakers with some Illusion Audio C3CX point-source coaxial speakers (~$900) and some CDT Audio 6x9 midbass speakers. Honestly, I probably shouldn't even mess with it, because the Kenwood speakers sound fantastic, but I like exploring some of the "higher-end" options. I'm deep in the car audio rabbit hole right now.
Lastly, I didn't want a "real" sub, so I went with a JBL BassPro 8" under-seat powered sub. Believe it or not, with the Helix and it's "Augmented Bass Processing", I have that little self-powered sub playing down to 35hz cleanly - pretty impressive for what it is.
I'm powering the dash, door and rear-deck speakers with the JL Audio XD600/6v2 (6x75W RMS at 4 ohms). It does an excellent job and the system gets louder than I can play it at.
I would NOT mess with summing and all of that crap. It's much easier (and you'll get significantly better results) with the PAC AmpPro 4 device. It basically just gives you clean line-level outputs from the stock head-unit. It also supports an optical digital output. I'm using that optical output going to my Helix DSP.3 and I can say that it's well worth it. Nice clean signal with no noise - all with a single, thin optical cable.
I have a thread on how talking about my install in detail (in the audio section). I have everything installed in the trunk spare-tire well. Picture below.
Amp board is secured to the spare-tire hold-down bolt - so I didn't have to drill into the car body at all. Worked out REALLY well. Again, more details in that audio thread.
Hope that helps - don't hesitate to reach out if you have any specific questions.
EDIT: If you want a "real" DSP, but don't want to spend the $$$ for a Helix, the Dayton Audio DSP-408 is the best on a budget. I think it's about $150 new. No digital input though.
Originally, I took the cheap route and went with a Rockford Fosgate DSR-1, which handles the OEM integration as well as the DSP aspect in a single box - and it's only ~$260. While it works and it a great price for the amount of functionality you get, the tuning app is mobile-device only and it pretty limited when compared to a "real" DSP.
I also originally replaced all 6 speakers with Infinity Reference speakers.
I've since replaced the DSR-1 with the PAC AmpPro for integration and a Helix DSP.3 for DSP. This combination is WAY better than the DSR-1 solution - but it's also WAY more expensive. Instead of ~$260 for the DSR-1, it's about $250 for the AmpPro and the Helix DSP.3 retails for $700. However, the Helix is a top-of-the-line DSP. I bought mine from an out-of-country Ebay seller for $535 shipped.
I also replaced the Infinity Reference speakers with Kenwood Excelon speaker - and what a difference they made! The Kenwood KFC-XP6903C component set is a "drop-in" set that is made for Dodge vehicles (and a few others with the same setup). It comes with 6x9 midbass speakers for the doors and a 3.5" coaxial for the dash. Once tuned with the DSP, the speakers sound fantastic. I also put the KFC-X174 6.5" coaxials in the rear deck. Again, MUCH better than the Infinity Reference speakers they replaced.
As good as the Kenwood setup sounds, I've been buying up some "high-end" speakers when I find good deals - and will be replacing the dash speakers with some Illusion Audio C3CX point-source coaxial speakers (~$900) and some CDT Audio 6x9 midbass speakers. Honestly, I probably shouldn't even mess with it, because the Kenwood speakers sound fantastic, but I like exploring some of the "higher-end" options. I'm deep in the car audio rabbit hole right now.
Lastly, I didn't want a "real" sub, so I went with a JBL BassPro 8" under-seat powered sub. Believe it or not, with the Helix and it's "Augmented Bass Processing", I have that little self-powered sub playing down to 35hz cleanly - pretty impressive for what it is.
I'm powering the dash, door and rear-deck speakers with the JL Audio XD600/6v2 (6x75W RMS at 4 ohms). It does an excellent job and the system gets louder than I can play it at.
I would NOT mess with summing and all of that crap. It's much easier (and you'll get significantly better results) with the PAC AmpPro 4 device. It basically just gives you clean line-level outputs from the stock head-unit. It also supports an optical digital output. I'm using that optical output going to my Helix DSP.3 and I can say that it's well worth it. Nice clean signal with no noise - all with a single, thin optical cable.
I have a thread on how talking about my install in detail (in the audio section). I have everything installed in the trunk spare-tire well. Picture below.
Amp board is secured to the spare-tire hold-down bolt - so I didn't have to drill into the car body at all. Worked out REALLY well. Again, more details in that audio thread.

Hope that helps - don't hesitate to reach out if you have any specific questions.
EDIT: If you want a "real" DSP, but don't want to spend the $$$ for a Helix, the Dayton Audio DSP-408 is the best on a budget. I think it's about $150 new. No digital input though.