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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2015 SPS with about 26k. Car is perfect (fingers crossed) and is a blast.

Last fall I bought a FCA extended warranty (the full Monty one) and it required a full car inspection. The car passed with flying colors except the tech noticed that the water pump pully had too much play in it and was able to rock it back/forth/up down slightly more than tolerances suggest. The tech actually "failed" the car inspection (meaning no warranty) but a quick conversation with the Service Manager and Viola-- the car passed; no doubt he wanted the sale and figured he'd get the business if/when it failed.

I keep a pretty close eye on my car (it is the military in me) and inspect everything under hood several times a week. So far 2k since the inspection everything is bone dry, quiet, pulls straight with no wobble.

Although the dealer service manager wants to wait for failure (basically explosive fluid everywhere) I'm a PM kind of guy. A high quality 12 pack for my service advisor (it is Texas thing so we embrace a beer based economy) and my car can be put in for repair.

So, is there any signs that I should look for-- other than drips, fluid...etc-- that says "she is about to go!" so I can get ahead of this repair?

Anyone with experience please share!
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Any play in that shaft/pulley on the water pump is a sign it needs to be replaced. If coolant isn’t leaking out the backside of it yet, it likely will. But even still, I wouldn’t wait for that to occur, I’d do it now even if I had to do it myself to prevent getting stranded somewhere or sometime when I really didn’t need to be.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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What Nuke said. The water pump is bad that is why the tech failed the car for the warranty inspection. If he would have passed the car as soon as the ink was dry on the warranty sales invoice the car would have been eligible for a water pump.

A water pump with bearing play is a time bomb.

I would push to have this replaced ASAP. BTW, SOP is when the water pump is replaced the T-stat should be replaced and I'd have the coolant replaced with fresh coolant too.
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Plus - Billet Clearcoat
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I have a 2015 SPS with about 26k. Car is perfect (fingers crossed) and is a blast.

Last fall I bought a FCA extended warranty (the full Monty one) and it required a full car inspection. The car passed with flying colors except the tech noticed that the water pump pully had too much play in it and was able to rock it back/forth/up down slightly more than tolerances suggest. The tech actually "failed" the car inspection (meaning no warranty) but a quick conversation with the Service Manager and Viola-- the car passed; no doubt he wanted the sale and figured he'd get the business if/when it failed.

I keep a pretty close eye on my car (it is the military in me) and inspect everything under hood several times a week. So far 2k since the inspection everything is bone dry, quiet, pulls straight with no wobble.

Although the dealer service manager wants to wait for failure (basically explosive fluid everywhere) I'm a PM kind of guy. A high quality 12 pack for my service advisor (it is Texas thing so we embrace a beer based economy) and my car can be put in for repair.

So, is there any signs that I should look for-- other than drips, fluid...etc-- that says "she is about to go!" so I can get ahead of this repair?

Anyone with experience please share!
Seems you already have the sign and from reading in here about it, they are getting replaced under warranty just with too much play in them.
 

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Reading about all the pump fails I checked my '16 and it was loose but not yet leaking at 17k miles. The dealer warrantied no problem
 
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Furious Fuchsia 2010 Challenger R/T Classic A5
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When mine went around 55k miles/6 years, it started to squeal intermittently - but quite noticeably - over the last 50 miles.

(Just adding my own personal - but limited - experience to the OP's inquiry.)
 
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When mine went around 55k miles/6 years, it started to squeal intermittently - but quite noticeably - over the last 50 miles.
You can't always count on noise to let you know when the pump is bad.

While one time noise did lead me to investigate the water pump and I found the water pump to have play -- the other accessory drives had no play -- another time the bad water pump made no noise. A whiff of antifreeze on a hot day prompted me to get the car right in to have the cooling system checked. Tech found the water pump was leaking and had been leaking some time. A blob of antifreeze residue had accumulated.

There is a temptation to try to "nurse" more miles from a bad water pump and it is bad if it makes any noise, leaks coolant, or even just has bearing play.

In the case of the car with the noisy water pump I elected to not even drive the car 25 miles to the nearest dealer but instead have the car flat bedded. The risk is with excessive play the water pump impeller can contact the block. This knocks the plastic vanes off the impeller and puts bits of plastic into the cooling system. These can be very hard to flush from the system. A more immediate concern is while the water pump is still spinning it is not really pumping any coolant through the engine. The engine can suffer from localized overheating which can damage the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Guys- I appreciate the feed back.

I typically use only OE purchased from the dealer. Although usually more expensive, The quality, fitment...etc is worth the extra. I do have a rare window of time today so I'm thinking of "knocking it out."

Since the dealers are closed, is there any manufactures that make the OE pumps that are selling them under a "white label" for the OE parts? Also, what is the correct fluid to use that I can pick up at a typical parts house.

Thanks!
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Thanks Guys- I appreciate the feed back.

I typically use only OE purchased from the dealer. Although usually more expensive, The quality, fitment...etc is worth the extra. I do have a rare window of time today so I'm thinking of "knocking it out."

Since the dealers are closed, is there any manufactures that make the OE pumps that are selling them under a "white label" for the OE parts? Also, what is the correct fluid to use that I can pick up at a typical parts house.

Thanks!
I’ve tried a couple different house brand water pumps from local parts stores and had varying luck with them lasting. One lasted a year, the other is still going after 2 years. It’s a gamble no matter which house brand you go with I think. (Anything beyond house brand will require a day or two wait to have it shipped to the store.)

As far as the coolant to use, yours has OAT formula in it, as opposed to HOAT, IAT, silica based, etc. Refill it with an OAT coolant and you will avoid any sludging issues that come with mixing the formulas.
 

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I'd look at the Gates #43562

- the Mopar branded ones are $200 + and for the price, the QC on on them hasn't impressed me.

the other brands (including the Gates) is substantially less than the Mopar brand
 

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2016 Challenger R/T Plus Shaker
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I agree with Hal H on the quality of the OE pumps. I am on my forth OE pump, under warranty, in four and a half years. The last one has a different appearance and number on it, I hope it will do better than the original pump.
 

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Mine was replaced back around early February under the powertrain warranty at 44.5k miles. It never leaked, but was knocking like hell, when I first heard it I thought I had a rod knocking or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm taking the "better safe than sorry" route and have an appointment scheduled at my local dealer on Wednesday morning. I'll let the car sit for the next few days and drive her in on the morning. I have the warranty so it is better to get ahead of this one.

My angst now centers around how jacked up my engine compartment will be after the fix. I freely admit that I'm the most neurotic guy on this site and have my car and engine bay in pristine (F'n "eat off of it" level immaculate). I'm in touch with my neurosis and I'm ok with it.
 

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2016 Dodge Challenger SRT, Billet Silver, Black Rally Stripes, A8
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I'm taking the "better safe than sorry" route and have an appointment scheduled at my local dealer on Wednesday morning. I'll let the car sit for the next few days and drive her in on the morning. I have the warranty so it is better to get ahead of this one.

My angst now centers around how jacked up my engine compartment will be after the fix. I freely admit that I'm the most neurotic guy on this site and have my car and engine bay in pristine (F'n "eat off of it" level immaculate). I'm in touch with my neurosis and I'm ok with it.
I can vouch for the F'n eat off of it level of immaculate on Bills 15' SP. It is like brand new, but with tasty mods. I thought I was a "clean freak" but Bill takes it to another level. :)

Bill, FWIW, I think your plan is sound. Best to get ahead of this, especially with the warranty. Sure, it might get a little "dirty", but that gives you an excuse to hang out in your garage, drink beer, and hang with your baby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I can vouch for the F'n eat off of it level of immaculate on Bills 15' SP. It is like brand new, but with tasty mods. I thought I was a "clean freak" but Bill takes it to another level. :)

Bill, FWIW, I think your plan is sound. Best to get ahead of this, especially with the warranty. Sure, it might get a little "dirty", but that gives you an excuse to hang out in your garage, drink beer, and hang with your baby.
Thanks Steve!
 

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I'm taking the "better safe than sorry" route and have an appointment scheduled at my local dealer on Wednesday morning. I'll let the car sit for the next few days and drive her in on the morning. I have the warranty so it is better to get ahead of this one.

My angst now centers around how jacked up my engine compartment will be after the fix. I freely admit that I'm the most neurotic guy on this site and have my car and engine bay in pristine (F'n "eat off of it" level immaculate). I'm in touch with my neurosis and I'm ok with it.
the water pumps are relatively easy on the Hemi engines to change. the hardest part is getting the lower hose off once you get the spring clamp off. There's nitrile? seal used for the water pump, so no sealants used for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got my car back tonight. Everything looks great a the install was done very well. Shout out to Josh at Grapevine (TX) Dodge. He is the "go to" guy in the shop for anything mechanical.

Preventative Maintenance is always a good idea.
 

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2016 Dodge Challenger SRT, Billet Silver, Black Rally Stripes, A8
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Great to hear, Bill. I will keep Grapevine Dodge in mind. Hard to find competent mechanics these days. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Great to hear, Bill. I will keep Grapevine Dodge in mind. Hard to find competent mechanics these days. :)
Call me when you are ready. I've already made enough mistakes for the both of us.

I just got done washing the car and now is is on to detail the (no so dirty) engine bay.
 
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