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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, just bought a brand new 2013 black challenger, never had a car worth maintaining the paint on so I am going to be detailing, polishing, waxing this thing myself the first time in my life...
The car is ALWAYS outside in California weather, frequently cold to where the car has ice on it in the morning in winter, sometimes 100+ degree weather in the summer.

My goal is to just have something that will look good and have MAXIMUM protection from the elements, I dont want to be waxing all the time and want the paint to look great for years and years.

Few questions though before I ruin this paint :)

Keep in mind they dont come noobier than I do,

Thinking of FK100P or Collinite 375 or 845, dont know which one to use or a combo of both?
Do I need special chemicals to remove existing wax before applying new wax?
Best steps to apply the wax?

I realize this is more for a detailing site but I would rather use challenger guys opinions specifically for black paint, the detail guys give more general opinions for all colors.

THANKS!
 

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I have always been impressed with FK1000P's durability, resilience and contaminant shedding characteristics. In fact, I find the latter better than most (if not all) of the other products I have used. The downside (IMO/IME) is that it applies much like a traditional carnauba paste wax. It will also leave white residue in crevices, along leading edges of decals or around emblems, on trim, etc. You need to use a little care when applying it and apply it thinly. .....excess residue can be difficult to remove since this product seems to cure quite hard IME.

Having said that, I have always had the best results applying two coats of this product. I will usually let the first coat cure a few days and reapplying a second after the next wash. IIRC, you need to at least allow 1 day between coats. Many also say the "look" will change (improve) within a couple of days. I believe I've witnessed the same but I sometimes think that may just be the power of suggestion. In either case, wait a week before passing final judgement on the overall appearance of this product on your finish.

I have used Collinite 845 and while a solid performer, I would choose FK1000P between the two given your requirements. As for the 375, I've never heard of that one. The other two popular offerings from Collinite are 476 and 915. ....at least the ones that get talked about more often besides 845. I haven't used those although I believe the consensus is that both (or at least 476) is more durable than 845.

Something else you might want to consider are one of several nano/semi-permanent sealants that are now available (i.e. G/Techniq, AQuartz, etc.). Some of these products can last 1-2 years. There is also a product like Optimum Opti-Coat which is permanent. .....permanent in the sense that it cannot be removed unless through abrasion (like with the use of an abrasive polish). I have OC currently applied to my wife's Forester.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sorry meant 476 not 375, dont know where I came up with that number :) Thanks Kean, given my needs/wants and lack of knowledge, what would you recommend I use? I just want it to be fully protected for as long as possible. I would rather have something scratch, scuff up, and dirty a wax coat rather than the clear coat and definitely wouldnt mind one that lasts longer if the same protection is there :)
 

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ZAINO all the way.......

 

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ZAINO Z5, 15 coats, ready for the winter

 

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sorry meant 476 not 375, dont know where I came up with that number :) Thanks Kean, given my needs/wants and lack of knowledge, what would you recommend I use? I just want it to be fully protected for as long as possible. I would rather have something scratch, scuff up, and dirty a wax coat rather than the clear coat and definitely wouldnt mind one that lasts longer if the same protection is there :)
Well, not many products are going to provide any sort of substantial "scratch" resistance. The exception might be a product like the Opti-Coat I mentioned (which I believe has been shown to add a measurable thickness to the finish). The only problem with OC is that it is not what I would consider "bubba proof". There is a learning curve with it especially if you've never used a WOWA (wipe on, walk away) sealant before like Ultima PGP, Optimum Opti-Seal (different than Opti-Coat) or Zaino CS. Also, due ot its permanent nature, correction/prep is very important as well as application. High spots must be knocked down within ~15 minutes before the product sets up.

Personally, I would probably recommend the FK1000P to start. It's cheap enough that if you use it for a season and don't like it, you can always move to something else. I would urge you to do some searches on the product on forums such as Autopia.org so you can get more feedback on it prior to purchasing. ....you may also want to check out some other alternatives as well while you're there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Kean does the opticoat need to be removed and redone at a certain interval or is it something that once you put on its always there? Im thinking maybe paying a pro to put on the opticoat and then putting the FK1000P on myself throughout the year on top of the opticoat. Yay or nay?
 

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Kean does the opticoat need to be removed and redone at a certain interval or is it something that once you put on its always there? Im thinking maybe paying a pro to put on the opticoat and then putting the FK1000P on myself throughout the year on top of the opticoat. Yay or nay?
Good question....

While OC is permanent and allegedly harder than most clear coats, it is not impervious to scratches. ....we will come back to that in a moment....

Another characteristic of OC is that things tend to not to stick to it very well. This is good when it comes to contamination but also means products (including itself) will have the same adhesion issue. After OC has fully cured, you can add something like FK1000P but according to Dr. Ghodoussi (aka Dr. G) of Optimum, it likely will not stick around for long. In either case, it's sort of moot point IMO. OC has great characteristics of it's own and most sealants will not provide much in the way of scratch resistance. ....which leads us back to my original point.

Scratches are inevitable with or without OC. Eventually, you may decide that correction (removal of blemishes from the finish) is again necessary. ....maybe a year, two or even more. At this stage you might be asking yourself how can you make sure that all of the product is removed prior to reapplication (since the product doesn't stick well to itself)? Initially when the product was released to the public it was said that it must be completely removed prior to reapplication. This was one of the reasons I didn't use my syringe of OC right away when I first received it upon its release. I envisioned that even if I had light marring that could be addressed with a mild polish, I would still need to use something aggressive enough to cut through the OC to the bare panel.

Thankfully, it was later it was discovered that a panel scuffed with a polish will accept more OC. This put to rest my fears that I would have to take down the product on entire panels when correcting before applying a fresh coat. The exception would be if you are going to switch products. .....you will need to completely remove the OC first in that scenario.

If you do decide to have OC applied to your vehicle, you may want to read a few different articles on routine maintenance (i.e. washing, drying, quick detailing, etc.). They may assist in tailoring a regimen that help will mitigate the risk of inducing scratches. .....effectively lengthening the period you find correction necessary. My own regimen is a potpourri of various tips, techniques and tools I ran across from various people. ....all adapted to fit my own requirements.

The "best" products, tools and techniques (IMO/IME) are what works for the user. ....not everyone else. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Kean, I think I have decided to pay a pro to put on the opti-coat and emailed opti-coat to verify its ok to use the FK1000P on top of it as a second measure, I dont really care if the FK doesnt stick to the OC for months and months but would give me a piece of mind having the OC and FK on there and I can just keep reapplying the FK every month or two depending on what OC customer support recommends. Thanks a million!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
anyone know how much the opti-coat will cost for my new car to have a pro put on and anyone know who around Orange County, CA can do it? Ive got a few people online that do it but would prefer someone you recommend that didnt ruin your car :)
 

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Another, and less expensive option, is to apply a good coat of Meguires (synthetic) Ultimate Wax. Then, every other week, go over it with Meguires Ultimate Detail Spray (with microfiber polishing clothes) and you'll have a finish like mine.
 

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Thanks Kean, I think I have decided to pay a pro to put on the opti-coat and emailed opti-coat to verify its ok to use the FK1000P on top of it as a second measure, I dont really care if the FK doesnt stick to the OC for months and months but would give me a piece of mind having the OC and FK on there and I can just keep reapplying the FK every month or two depending on what OC customer support recommends. Thanks a million!
If you're going to top it, I would recommend something other than FK in that case. FK isn't the kind of product I would want to apply as frequently as you will be. Frankly, I wouldnt bother with OC at all in that scenario. ....sort of defeats the purpose of the product IMO/IME.

Optimum does have a forum and you will likely get the answers you need in there regarding layering over OC. Chris @ Optimum is active there and quite helpful. He is also on several other detailing forums.

-- sent from mobile phone --
 

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anyone know how much the opti-coat will cost for my new car to have a pro put on and anyone know who around Orange County, CA can do it? Ive got a few people online that do it but would prefer someone you recommend that didnt ruin your car :)
Its about $60 for a syringe. As far as having a professional apply it, it will be costly to have it done right. Prep is very important with this product.

You will want the paint corrected to remove blemishes otherwise they will be locked in until the product is removed. Also, OC needs a bare surface to adhere to so the paint must be free of all other products, polishing oils, etc.

I would search detailing-specific websites like Autopia.org to search for a reputable, experienced detailer in your area. I would expect to pay at about $300+ for a proper job. That a very rough estimate and a lot will depend on several factors including the condition of your finish, your expectations/goals, products being used, time needed, etc.

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks again, ill go over to the optimum forum and see what they say. That OC would really give me that extra piece of mind im looking for, I was only thinking of a topper for that just to go over the top and make it last longer and protect the OC that much longer :)
 

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thanks again, ill go over to the optimum forum and see what they say. That OC would really give me that extra piece of mind im looking for, I was only thinking of a topper for that just to go over the top and make it last longer and protect the OC that much longer :)
No worries.

Its just my opinion but I would choose something easier and faster to apply than FK1000P in that case. May want to see what they say about applying Opti-Seal over OC. OS is a WOWA product as well but will wear off over time just like most sealants. You literally just wipe it on and let it dry.

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