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Wax

17K views 61 replies 25 participants last post by  Tshane72 
#1 ·
Hey peeps what kind of wax do you use on your cars? I have a '12 rt and its clean but I want that showroom look at me glossy finish
 
#2 ·
I use Meguiars black spray on wax. I have a black Challenger - so I wash it with Meguiars by hand always - never in a car wash, then dry it and put on the Meguiar's spray wax. Car looks like it was poured out of a chocolate factory. Unreal the shine and depth it gives to the paint.
 
#4 ·
You say your R/T is "clean", but is it really? Before you focus on waxes or other coatings, inspect your paint under direct sunlight or LED lights. If you have swirls in your paint (from mechanical or improper washing) and you take steps to get rid of those swirls, you will "brighten up" your paint doing that alone.

As for wax, I use Collinite #476. It is a highly durable carnauba/synthetic wax mix that gives the car that "deep wet" look. I had used Collinite's #845 Insulator wax, and before that Four Star UPP sealant, but they give more of a "hard candy shell" look than I wanted.



 
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#6 ·
Absolutely stunning!! Car looks fantastic. I'm taking notes! Perhaps Meguiars has some new competition.
 
#8 ·
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#12 ·
I thought swiftjr is EvershineWax. No matter, it's really good stuff that I used my first year detailing. I had trouble with it streaking, but that's most likely user error.
 
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#9 ·
There are several excellent car waxes available. For price, availability and ease of use, I prefer Meguiars' products. Specifically, here are my detailing steps:

1. Wash with Meguiars Gold car wash, using the showcar style 2-bucket washing method (see video link).
2. Apply Meguiars Ultimate Polish (annually).
3. Apply Meguiars Ultimate Wax (liquid or paste).
4. Apply Meguiars Ultimate Detail Spray (every two weeks).

(Note: Use microfiber polishing clothes)



Here is my 8 year old, 2009 Hemi orange SRT at last summer's car show.
 

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#10 ·
There are several excellent car waxes available. For price, availability and ease of use, I prefer Meguiars' products. Specifically, here are my detailing steps:

1. Wash with Meguiars Gold car wash, using the showcar style 2-bucket washing method (see video link).
2. Apply Meguiars Ultimate Polish (annually).
3. Apply Meguiars Ultimate Wax (liquid or paste).
4. Apply Meguiars Ultimate Detail Spray (every two weeks).

(Note: Use microfiber polishing clothes)

How to Wash Your Car (ShowCar style!) - YouTube

Here is my 8 year old, 2009 Hemi orange SRT at last summer's car show.
So what's the easiest and/or best way to take care of those "mechanical swirls" first?
 
#15 · (Edited)
Sidepipes opened at the 15 second mark....headphones recommended


Here's a video shot this past Monday at an impromptu memorial meetup for a fellow enthusiast who recently passed away.

The Steel Curtain Challenger is highlighted at the 5:32 mark (factory to sidepipes), 9:17 and 10:34 marks (drivebys)....courtesy of CTCharger

 
#16 ·
Just about any Adams polish products but I really love the brilliant glaze with patriot wax combo. Gives best shine I have ever been able to produce. And I have used plenty. But yes make sure to do a paint correction first and annually.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Do not take my word for it, take a look at the 9+ page on here. I have tried them all! Wolfgang (100's of dollars), F11 Topcoat, nothing makes my car shine like Evershine. I even took a "Best of Show" last year with 100k on my car. Simply the best and inexpensive to boot!

The thing to remember is it what's underneath. If you can feel bumps or grit when your car is clean, clay bay, or save yourself hours and Nanoskin. I wash and Nanoskin my car in an hour! Even the Dodge dealership asked how did I keep my paint so "smooth". When people feel my paint after seeing it, that's when I get me detail jobs. I recently detailed a 1941 Ford, the owner had never won at a car show. 10+ year old paint. After my detail, first show, "Best Paint!"

If anyone is interested, I have an email I send out with all of the products and steps I use. It takes me 5-6 hours to give a car exterior a "Show Car Detail". The following pictures are of my car and others I have detailed. Most recently a 2016 Challenger with tar and overspray all over it.





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#18 ·
As others have said or alluded to....it’s as much about the process as the product brand.

Wash using two buckets (one for suds and one for rinsing the mitt between sections). Use at least two mitts (one for the top half of the car and one for the bottom half. Even a third mitt for the wheels). Wash in straight lines working front to back.

Dry using waffle-weave or plush microfiber towels. Pat the car dry instead of dragging the towel across the car.

Clay bar once a year. Lots of kits available. Mothers is readily available and works well. Even new cars need claying to remove rail dust and industrial fallout from its trip from the factory to the dealer.

Best results come from a multi-step system. A pre-wax cleaner to prep the paint. A sealer or polish to nourish the paint, fill minor flaws, and create gloss. Finish with a quality wax to protect your work from the day-to-day elements.

Then use a spray wax following a wash to act as a booster.

Swirl removal or paint correction will only happen with a buffer. Porter Cables have been around a long time and are effective but they’re a little heavy. Mothers and Griots offer nice machines for the hobbiest. There are better options for aspiring pro detailers.
 
#20 ·
Thanks swiftjr. You pretty much made me spend some of my hard earned cash. I just placed an order for some wax and spray polish from evershine. Now I have a couple days to find room on my wax / polish / cleaning supplies shelf ;).
 
#24 ·
I bought one to finish my under hood parts after my old polisher broke, and thinking having a DA would always be good. Car may not be coated some day. But too heavy for the light plastic parts. Bought a $25 Ryobi Orbital buffer. Much quieter and lighter. For $50, still good to have the Harbor Freight one though. May need it some day. A Guy
 
#27 ·
I've used Meguire's in the past and Smooth as Glass Polish both are good products. Switched over to Chemical Guys products with my challenger.
As previously mentioned, like most things, prep is the most important part. Wash and clay bar to remove contaminants, choose a compound or polish for swirl or scratch removal.
I used their Black Light line. Black Light finish, then Jet Seal then Black Wax every six months,
Wash with Blacklight car wash and any quick detailer in between.
 

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#28 ·
I have no stripes on my car.
 
#30 ·
Buttery is meh.... and only lasts a couple weeks maybe. Try brilliant glaze followed by 2 thin coats of americana or patriot. I prefer patriot (more shine less durability) but more expensive than americana (more durability than patriot, slight less shine). Both last MUCH longer than buttery. Closer to 1-2 months. You will look at your car like :surprise: G&G is a great product as well.
 
#38 ·
I use a version of the Matt Moreman (OG) Special HD Poxy then topped with Collinite 845.

I bought CG Butter Wet Wax and Blacklight Glaze when on sale early on. I use them from time to time but the 845 is the best. I will probably buy the 476 at some point..

Prep is most important...if the paint is clean/decontaminated and smooth then the wax will be easy to apply and remove. That's what i love about the 845 is that it is super easy to remove and alot goes a loooong way.

Sidenote - for those with DA polishers, I highly recommend HD Speed. If you car is in pretty good shape but needs a quick polish then this is a great 1 step product that polishes and leaves a layer of protection on your car. Sometime you are limited on time and this is a great easy to use product as well. Top is off with 845.
 
#41 ·
Looks awesome, but then add the dog? Unfair :)

A Guy
 
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#45 ·
I use this on my HD Streetglide. A guy I work with said it was made for fiberglass boats and will turn yellowish after a while? I have no issues on my bike. I did use it on the inside of my wheels and calipers. I have the renewer that the dealer gave me for the car but I’ve never waxed it. I always thought that a clear coat paint should only be washed in a Mild Soap? My car is a garage queen however and spends much of its life out of the sun.
 
#48 ·
The Key is your starting point. Wax is just a "topping"...lol

First you have to have a contaminant free finish. A wash and Nanoskin. I have a Nanoskin Mitt, I do my whole car in less than one hour. Clay bar takes so much longer and is so much harder IMO.

After washing I treat all plastic. Rockers, headlight surrounds, etc. with Stoner Trim Shine. Then I spray Tires with Stoner Tire shine. Doing this first makes it so you do not end up wiping the car down again later.

Next, 3M Ultrafine Polish with a slow speed polisher. I use a Black and Decker WP900. 30 bucks on Amazon. Take your time and wipe it off before it dries.

Next Evershine (or your choice wax). Check out the testimonials on this forum. About 10 pages worth.

That's it! That's the steps I use to detail cars and trucks as my car at shows had prompted a side business. "Swift Car Show Detail".

102k+ miles and I even took home a "Best of Show" last year!!









 
#49 ·
Lol, my Harley Fatboy made the Evershine page too!!



 
#50 ·
Have any of you gotten the Collinite 476 on plastic, trim, or vinyl decals? I want to try it, but don't want white residue and I'm not taping it off. The Collinite 845 is fine on plastic, trim and vinyl decals even though they say it's not. I've been doing it for many yrs.
 
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