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I remember seeing this guys vids where he was using his poor lawn mower engine to test seafoam and all sorts of other engine products. Got to give him props as his test apparatus has improved.
 

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I know he can't test every oil, but it would have been nice to see Pennzoil Ultra Platinum instead of Pennzil Platinum. Although, Pennzoil Platinum seems to be holding it's own!

I've always been a Pennzoil fan - have used it for many years.
 

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Boosted 2014 R/T Shaker M6
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I run Amsoil Signature in all of my vehicles, always have, and always will. IMO there is nothing better...
 

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That's nice and all, but he's testing 5w-30 in all the flavors, which is not applicable to any of you gentlemen, assuming you're following your owner's manual's recommendations.

Hell, it's not even applicable to me, and I'm widely known as an inveterate flouter of recommendations in the OM. (The Bacon Hauler's got M1 HM 10w-30 in her at the moment, and judging by how much it's quietened that normally noisy engine, I'll probably be sticking with this oil going forward.)
 

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I was using penzoil ultra up until recently when I switched to amsoil signature series. Both oils are great imo, I can just find better deals on the amsoil.


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Discussion Starter #7
I was using penzoil ultra up until recently when I switched to amsoil signature series. Both oils are great imo, I can just find better deals on the amsoil.


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That would be a pretty good reason for me to jump to Amsoil too.



It's such a pain in the ass to find Pennzoil in 0w40 at decent prices.
 

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That's nice and all, but he's testing 5w-30 in all the flavors, which is not applicable to any of you gentlemen, assuming you're following your owner's manual's recommendations.

Hell, it's not even applicable to me, and I'm widely known as an inveterate flouter of recommendations in the OM. (The Bacon Hauler's got M1 HM 10w-30 in her at the moment, and judging by how much it's quietened that normally noisy engine, I'll probably be sticking with this oil going forward.)
My comment includes my Ram 2500 and my wife's Sporttrac, as well as both of our Challengers. It has nothing whatsoever to do with the concoction that guy was cooking in his kitchen that I have no intention of ever trying... :grin2:
 

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That would be a pretty good reason for me to jump to Amsoil too.



It's such a pain in the ass to find Pennzoil in 0w40 at decent prices.


I seriously feel like the price has doubled in the past three years !


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Dealer list price has actually dropped, now only $8.10 quart.


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I was able to acquire 17 quarts of the amsoil SS on eBay for 9.70 per quart and was even more for penzoil. My dealer here in LINY wants 12.10 per quart of the penzoil up.


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If the Pennzoil 0w-40 isn't available anywhere except the dealership or can only be had by paying dealership-like prices, check the local Wally World for the Castrol Syntec 0w-40 that's made in Belgium (or is it Germany?). That's some pretty stout stuff, should have no problem stepping in and taking over for the Pennzoil if need be.
 

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I will be the wet blanket...

Project Farm, a channel on Youtube, recently did a string of engine oil tests.

https://youtu.be/WrR7-kQulao
1) "...doesn't simulate engine operating conditions perfectly." Agreed.
More correct: doesn't simulate any engine operating conditions very well.
2) The oils used in the tests are of different specifications, e.g. SN and SN+ and even one SL. Comparing within the specification could be useful in determining how well one oil stacks up against another (assuming valid tests), but comparing across specifications does not give useful results IMO.
3) The cold pour testing is cool, but ultimately not that useful. The main thing for engine oil that matters in severe cold is pump-ability. That does not correlate to its pour-ability as closely as he intimates.

1) Again, tests are not simulating real-world conditions inside an engine. Results cannot be assigned much weight as a result.
2) The evaporation test is unnecessary to begin with. Each oil already has a value assigned during testing that indicates its propensity to evaporate from heat - NOACK. Look up an oil's NOACK value and compare that to another's in the same specification and weight. That will provide some useful data if making a decision on which to run.
3) What does the PPM value of the Anti-wear additives tell me? What is an anti-wear additive? The data he seems to be after is already known and published by each oil company, and it is broken down into the specific elements or molecules as well. Need more moly? Need less ZDDP? What about sodium? Those are all available already for each oil.

Which do you think will win?

Honestly, even if Pennzoil doesn't win, 2nd place isn't bad.

EDIT:

Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out! - YouTube

<RANT action="begin">

Full Disclosure: I did not watch the latest video recently added. I suspect my position on the value of the information presented would not change if I had.

It seems to me the gentleman in the video had some pre-determined favorites and suited his testing to confirm them. Either way, I did not hear him mention the absolute best way to determine how an engine oil is doing in your specific engine - get a string of UOAs to establish and baseline and reveal any trends.
TBN is an additional return data point you can have tested also, that will be more accurate for each OCI versus his judgments based upon generalized graphs.

Also, I heard the phrase "..seems to have more.." and "...seems to be..." waaay too many times for a video series pitting oils against each other to ascertain the better ones over the lesser ones.

</RANT action="end">
 

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Is it just me or does he use Pennzoil Platinum in some videos and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in other videos? Is he mix-and-matching the two??
 

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Either way, I did not hear him mention the absolute best way to determine how an engine oil is doing in your specific engine - get a string of UOAs to establish and baseline and reveal any trends.
TBN is an additional return data point you can have tested also, that will be more accurate for each OCI versus his judgments based upon generalized graphs.
Best way to test is to do a series of UOA and test under your own usage. It will cost a few bucks for the tests but it is very insightful. I did that testing the ever-controversial Quantum Blue custom blends and found it actually does work as advertised and got variable results with other oils. Some were worse, some almost as good and still below average wear. This example is on a 3.6L Charger that is now over 200k miles. The biggest lesson was to see how long you can go between changes. Most synthetic/blends can go about 10k. The QB and Mobil extended can easily go 15k. I imagine others might be as good. I will monitor my 6.4 but will likely stick with the Penzoil 0W-40.
 

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Best way to test is to do a series of UOA and test under your own usage. It will cost a few bucks for the tests but it is very insightful. I did that testing the ever-controversial Quantum Blue custom blends and found it actually does work as advertised and got variable results with other oils. Some were worse, some almost as good and still below average wear. This example is on a 3.6L Charger that is now over 200k miles. The biggest lesson was to see how long you can go between changes. Most synthetic/blends can go about 10k. The QB and Mobil extended can easily go 15k. I imagine others might be as good. I will monitor my 6.4 but will likely stick with the Penzoil 0W-40.

Not a fan of using the presence of wear metals in the oil as a sign the oil needs to be changed which is how many who have the oil analyzed determine when the oil needs to be changed. I prefer to change the oil before wear metals show up in any significant amounts.

In the engine and engine oil partnership the oil is the sacrificial item. One discards oil *before* it begins to break down and the engine begins to show wear sign. The goal is not to maximize the life of the oil but the life of the engine.

Thus I'm perfectly comfortable replacing oil at 5K miles even though it might have another 1K or more miles "left". While in some cases the automaker supports 10K (and in one case 15K) miles between oil changes unless my usage consisted of driving pretty much coast to coast on freeways 10K miles for I dare say most owners is really pushing it.

A number of times -- this with previous cars -- before heading out on a road trip I'd change the engine oil. Then upon my return and with 5K miles on the oil I'd change the oil. Upon draining the oil I could still see some amber color to the oil. The oil stream was still a bit -- not much though -- translucent. I suspect the oil could have had another 2500 maybe even 5K miles of that type of usage left.

OTOH, many a time I changed the oil after 5K miles of my normal day to day usage -- which has for years -- since 2004 -- has consisted of and continued to consist of a 30 mile mostly highway drive to the office and then the drive home in the evening Monday through Friday. Short trips are rather rare for me. But even with the above usage the oil drained is black and at least from appearances clearly (no pun) due to be changed. I would not be comfortable running the oil another 1K miles let alone another 5K miles to 10K miles.
 

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2003 Chevy S-10 with 150K miles - conventional Valvoline every 3K miles no issues
2010 Dodge Challenger R/T with 70K miles - conventional Valvoline every 3K miles no issues
2015 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack with 25K miles - synthetic Mobil One every 5K miles no issues

I think if you run the correct weight of oil and a good quality filter and change the oil at a reasonable frequency, you will be fine.
 

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What I want someone to test is whether there is really any justification for making me change my oil every six months with (in some cases) less than 500 miles elapsed. $85 a whack at the dealer! Changed the oil in October...sat in my garage from October to April.
 
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