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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
strangely, the retainers are broken, install a camshaft stage 3 hrt of comp cams with the spring kit they recommend but they just broke

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Best solution depends on your budget and skill. Rebuild the engine, buy a new engine, or source a wrecking yard engine. Definitely need to figure out what caused it to break retainers, drop valves and break ring lands.
 

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2019 Challenger R/T Scat Pack Widebody
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Could just be post carnage observation were the valve locks (valve collets) seated in the valve groove fully? These are really misleading when installing under tension in a motor, they appear to hold but and then at first push of the valve slip off the valve stem. This may have caused the valves to drop and impact the piston landing, the valve spring retainer (washer / disc on the spring) could have been secondary damage once the valves had dropped and the cam kept hammering the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Could just be post carnage observation were the valve locks (valve collets) seated in the valve groove fully? These are really misleading when installing under tension in a motor, they appear to hold but and then at first push of the valve slip off the valve stem. This may have caused the valves to drop and impact the piston landing, the valve spring retainer (washer / disc on the spring) could have been secondary damage once the valves had dropped and the cam kept hammering the spring.
the retainer broke down because of that the valve was released, if it hit the piston but that was not the one that broke, the broken piston had no blow just this one broken (Knock I think), it has a month working since the camshaft was installed , I was doing a tune by email, I was in the last details

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Discussion Starter #5
Best solution depends on your budget and skill. Rebuild the engine, buy a new engine, or source a wrecking yard engine. Definitely need to figure out what caused it to break retainers, drop valves and break ring lands.
I am considering putting only the forged piston using the OEM rod, I don't know where I can get them, I think they will be a little more reliable. boost or nitrous are not yet in my short term plans
 

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Looks like it jumped timing. Maybe the tensioner bolts? I’m sure you could reach out to one of the vendors on this site and buy a take off piston and rod from them. Weisco sells individual ring packs. If the cylinder is not scarred you can drop the oil pan hone the bore and replace the piston.
 

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Did they check for valve spring bind? At this point with the mods you have going on, I would go with a forged rotating assembly. Ringland failure, like you had is not uncommon with a tune if you run fuel below the recommended grade.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like it jumped timing. Maybe the tensioner bolts? I’m sure you could reach out to one of the vendors on this site and buy a take off piston and rod from them. Weisco sells individual ring packs. If the cylinder is not scarred you can drop the oil pan hone the bore and replace the piston.
Yes, it would be helpful to see with a seller what options I have
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did they check for valve spring bind? At this point with the mods you have going on, I would go with a forged rotating assembly. Ringland failure, like you had is not uncommon with a tune if you run fuel below the recommended grade.
the valve and the spring are fine, I guess it was the knock
 

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It’s not knock. The valves hit the pistons. Bad fuel would not cause the valve train to come apart. The other thing that it could be is coil bind but I still think it jumped timing.
 

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I am considering putting only the forged piston using the OEM rod, I don't know where I can get them, I think they will be a little more reliable. boost or nitrous are not yet in my short term plans
Just a heads up, forged pistons can be noisy.
 

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From this picture it looks like you have the intake rockers installed where the exhaust rockers should be (pushrods would have to be swapped as well)? Could that have been your problem? Maybe I am looking at the image wrong...that aftermarket intake threw me...nevermind. I take it you were running a phase locker/limiter? Another member here had engine work done and it turned out the pin holding the phaser to cam sheared.
 

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Looking at the picture again and this is all assumptions right, how much stiffer (higher spring rate) are those valve springs compared to standard. It appears that the retainers (flat washer on the spring) all broke off a piece in roughly the same place. That place being where the valve spring wire ends and is ground flat, could there a sharp edge at the end of the wire and with the higher spring rate the retainers failed? Just another thought.
And one more the non broken retainers almost look as if they are tilted slightly like the valve itself is bent or stretched, as mentioned previously the timing could have been off.


Any updates on potential root cause?
 

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with all the pieces broken on multiple spring retainers - this looks like coil binding.

Eventually the stress and metal fatigue created the failure of the retainers. The one where the entire retainer failed allowed the valve to drop and struck the piston.

It looks like the rockers were trying to punch the retainer out from the center when coil bind would occur and the other portion was fracturing off. The one where everything broke away - note the center was still intact as it dropped into the spring.

That engine was not far away from having multiple valves drop as the other retainers were failing
 

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BTW was this the kit you ran?

Full kit
(in 0.632/ ex 0.609)

Springs only - (from the picture it looks like it comes with 2 different retainers)
(max 0.665" lift)
 

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with all the pieces broken on multiple spring retainers - this looks like coil binding.

Eventually the stress and metal fatigue created the failure of the retainers. The one where the entire retainer failed allowed the valve to drop and struck the piston.

That engine was not far away from having multiple valves drop as the other retainers were failing
I think this makes the most sense (y)
 

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From this picture it looks like you have the intake rockers installed where the exhaust rockers should be (pushrods would have to be swapped as well)? Could that have been your problem? Maybe I am looking at the image wrong...that aftermarket intake threw me...nevermind. I take it you were running a phase locker/limiter? Another member here had engine work done and it turned out the pin holding the phaser to cam sheared.
good spotting that - that looks like the lower side of head by the block (black paint on 5.7 blocks) and if that rocker shaft was installed like that, its not correct.

The pushrods are different lengths for intake vs. exhaust and I'm not certain about the rockers, I'm aware they're 1.6:1 ratio.
you have a 6.800" set and 8.100" set of pushrods for the intake / exhaust positions

the intake rockers are clearly marked with the "I" cast into it. it might be a positioning thing or the arms or the geometry is different. I just know to reinstall them in their correct orientation on the engine
 

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Discussion Starter #18
[QUOTE = "ChallyTatum, publicación: 8551191, miembro: 195634"]
Por cierto, ¿fue este el kit que corriste?

Kit completo
[URL unfurl = "true"] Search results for: 'stage 3 hrt 228 236 max power hydraulic roller cam kit for dodge 6 4l hemi' w-vvt-2009.html [/ URL]
(en 0.632 / ex 0.609)

Solo resortes: (de la imagen parece que viene con 2 retenedores diferentes)
[URL unfurl = "true"] Search results for: '660 lift conical spring kit with chromemoly retainers for 2009 18 dodge 5 7 6 2' 6-4-hemi.html [/ URL]
(elevación máxima de 0.665 ")
[/CITAR]
Search results for: 'stage 3 hrt 224 234 max power hydraulic roller master cam kit for dodge 5 7 6 4l hemi w' vvt-2009.html

Fue este
 
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