If you mod your ride most likely the SRT will have mods too.
If you are going againts a stock one then yes you have a chance. Cheapest way would probally be to add some giggle juice 125 shot 600-$1000 to do it the right way.
I raced my friend with a SRT, I have a 2010 r/t classic auto. Up until about 120MPH we were neck and neck. then the extra HP kicks in... He was impressed. The only mods we have are a custome tune from Livernois Motor Sports, Mopar catback and mopar cold air. They are fast cars!
This subject always tends to bring up some heated discussions. For me it was a color thing and the one DY Challenger here happened to be an R/T classic. had it been an SRT I would have still bought it. The thing is now that I have the car and have run it, I am so happy i got this R/T.
I have seen many SRT's running at the track and they just aren't that much faster when comparing tot he times the new 5.7 vvt motors seem to be running. I see stock SRT's running low 13's all day and the R/T's are right there. there is a ton of info to back that up. I have been 12.98 in my R/T with a tune, exhaust and a factory intake box on stock RSA's (they are terrible tires for the strip). That day, there was two SRT's and they were all a bit slower and one was on drag radials. There are plenty of R/T's well into the 12's with drag radials and bolt on stuff.
I think the SRT platform is better to build on, but they just aren't that much faster when compared from the base. either that or I have been witness to a whole bunch of folks that can't drive.
not taking anything from the SRT's though as there is a whole lot more to that package than a little HP.
I've noticed that the R/Ts tend to have better 60' times than SRTs. That is most likely due to Variable Valve Timing. If you can get out of the hole well, the rest of the run follows. So with a few mild upgrades, an R/T can be equal to an SRT at the track. But if you look at the incrementals, the cars get the 1/4 mile times in different ways. Even though the two cars are mostly the same, how the engine is setup makes a big difference.
Of course the 2011 SRTs have VVT now, and that's the biggest improvement with those cars. Making a 2011 R/T run like a 2011 SRT is a much bigger chore. A bone stock (w/video evidence) 2011 Challenger SRT 392 ran 12.44 at Infineon Raceway (Sonoma, CA) at 110 MPH with the notorious head winds there, and the driver didn't know what he was doing. My 2009 SRT, with a bunch of (mild) upgrades doesn't even come close. Stock I ran 13.6 and now I run 12.7. Still a long way from 2011 numbers.
So getting an R/T to run like an SRT is a complicated issue. Of course, if you want to beat a stock SRT with ease, nitrous oxide is simple and a blower works well also.
[alfred10, if you mean to ask why some stock R/Ts seem to get better times than stock SRTs, it because of all the other variables besides the cars. No two tracks are the same, no two drivers are the same, and even no two cars are the same. Some R/Ts came with better engines than others by luck of the draw and the same goes with SRTs. Also, the variances in the weather makes a huge difference. With my car, on a hot day I'll run 13.2s and on a cold day I'll run 12.7s, with no other changes. Hope all this answers your question.]
At the Mopar Southern Classic this October I was in a Bracket II race. At one point I lined up against a new bone stock SRT-8.
My mods are listed, but with new shorty headers/no cats and Mopar 2.5" catback, Diablo CMR tune from DCX, and JLT CAI. 363 whp and 395 ft lbs.
He got 1 car length on me at the line with a better 60 ft, but not much if I recall, and we ran neck and neck all the way down. With me right on the bumper all the way down. He had an auto, and I a 6 speed. I hold the gas down and blip the clutch on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift. I nailed the dial in and went on to the next round.
I would say probably that the SRT would walk me down the interstate pretty good though................but I'm in the ball park anyway.
30k for the car and catback (thanks mopar bucks) and maybe 1700.00 for the headers, cai, diablo and tune including labor. I had all the work done by DCX. I could add some boost and still be way under the sticker for a SRT. But w/o the primo Brembo's and stiched leather seats, and the EVIC.
There was a review that put a stock SRT and an R/T on a dyno, the SRT made only 15 more HP at the rear wheel. With auto's and 6 speeds you get into semantics, but auto SRT vs auto R/T with catback and a CAI alone should be enough to run neck and neck with an SRT if not faster. Add a custom Diablo tune and the R/T should be able to take the SRT.