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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever replaced a rear wheel stud? I've got two that I need to replace and am wondering if anyone has any tips/tricks to getting the hub bolts out? I've got the axle nut off and the axle pushed back as far as I can but that CV joint makes getting at those bolts really tight. I've got a 1/4" drive E12 socket on the way because of course I couldn't find one around here and my 3/8" drive socket just isn't going to cut it.

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Can you rotate the hub around and find an "open spot" to push it out. Some cars have like on open area you can do this so you don't have to disassemble the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought of that, because honestly I thought there's no way it's this hard, but couldn't find that spot when I first looked. But after loosening the hub and pulling it out a bit it appears there is a spot at the 6 o'clock position that you can do it. Just have to move the drum brake pads a little to get the head of the stud in.

But for anyone else reading this needing to remove a hub in the future, 1/4" drive E12 socket or a "universal" 9mm socket both work and you'll need a couple wobble bar extensions. I wound up using a 2" and 3". Just make sure your socket is engaged good with the bolt head since your working at slight angles.

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checking in here as I am researching this for a future project. Would you have been able to do this for a 3" long stud as well?
 

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checking in here as I am researching this for a future project. Would you have been able to do this for a 3" long stud as well?
No I think you have to take the hub off for longer studs. There was barely enough room to get the factory stud in and out.

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No I think you have to take the hub off for longer studs. There was barely enough room to get the factory stud in and out.

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10-4 and thanks for the reply. As a follow up, is there anyone that actually make 3" or 3.5" wheel studs for these cars? All i'm finding are the ARP's for mustangs but have a .625" knurl instead of the .630".

Sort of Ironic that I am trying to fit the 17x11 race wheels from racecar on the challenger with 315's. So far, it appears it will work. Just need the studs in place to do final fit testing. And yes, I can already hear the naysayers but this is a custom set of Jongbloeds that clear 14" brakes with ease. even looks like they clear the rear sway bar. They will poke a bit which is fine for a track day wheel considering they are a good 2.5" smaller in diameter than the 20" stockers but it will be worth a try considering the 17x11 with a 315 is right at 9# lighter than the 55.2# OEM 20 lightweight 20" wheels. X'ing my fingers.
 
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