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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey yall. I'm starting to steer away from stock specs for my 2010 RT and need to know if this set up would work. all four are on 245/40R20 right now. I'll prob get different rims, but that same size if this would work.
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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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need to know if this set up would work
work for what?

daily driving back and forth to work? Sure. Go nuts.

clocking low ETs at the drag strip? Eh, there are better options.

sitting in the garage for days at a time, then cruising the back roads to dispose of dead Hooker body parts? Yeah, completely doable with that setup.

What is the desired goal of the mod, is what I’m asking. Limitless questions tend to draw an unlimited number of useless, vague answers IME.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
work for what?

daily driving back and forth to work? Sure. Go nuts.

clocking low ETs at the drag strip? Eh, there are better options.

sitting in the garage for days at a time, then cruising the back roads to dispose of dead Hooker body parts? Yeah, completely doable with that setup.

What is the desired goal of the mod, is what I’m asking. Limitless questions tend to draw an unlimited number of useless, vague answers IME.
im looking for a wider stance than I have now, better stability, hence the deepdish 15mm offsets. i like the staggered look.. but most importantly I just dont want there to be rubbing or any contact. I dont have really any experience at all so... what would you put on it?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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im looking for a wider stance than I have now, better stability, hence the deepdish 15mm offsets. i like the staggered look.. but most importantly I just dont want there to be rubbing or any contact. I dont have really any experience at all so... what would you put on it?
So the mod is geared toward improving the aesthetics of the car, the visual profile of it from a distance? You should be good to go.

If the mod is expected to increase or improve the car's cornering abilities, adverse condition traction, etc., then you can still move forward I think, but keep your expectations realistic about how much this will be able to improve the car's handling and traction.

Suspension in general, and especially on these cars, is mind-numbingly complicated and its reaction to mods is difficult to predict at best. Upgrading multiple components all at once (wheels & tires + coil springs + shocks + struts + whatever) can have unpredictable and undesirable consequences. Changing one thing at a time like you are doing is smarter, and it will leave you better off in the end.

Don't underestimate your desire to continue down this rabbit hole though, once you've upgraded one component and liked the results.

Improving the car's looks and driving experience with a set of wheels and tires can very easily lead to a set of lowering springs and high performance shocks/struts. But if you lower it and stiffen up the suspension, the wheels and tires you previously chose may no longer be the best fit. Now what?

Improving the car's straight-line traction can easily lead to weekends at the drag strip. But 20" wheels are no bueno when trying to clock ultra-low E.T.s in the quarter. Time for 18" wheels with drag slicks. But what if you're still paying off the 20" wheel upgrade?

Straightening out the curves usually ends with a realization that the stock brakes are inadequate for all but stop and go city driving. Swapping in a set of Brembos would yield tremendous benefits in hauling ass and stopping in time, yet the bigger the brake caliper, the fewer wheels you can run. Now you have to sell those 6 mo old wheels you just bought to make it look better.

Plan ahead is all I'm saying...that is, if you're a hopeless gearhead modder like most of us. If you possess some self-control and can say 'no' to the mod bug any time, then disregard what I'm saying. I'm sick in the head and merely trying to help others who may also suffer from my affliction but don't yet know it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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So the mod is geared toward improving the aesthetics of the car, the visual profile of it from a distance? You should be good to go.

If the mod is expected to increase or improve the car's cornering abilities, adverse condition traction, etc., then you can still move forward I think, but keep your expectations realistic about how much this will be able to improve the car's handling and traction.

Suspension in general, and especially on these cars, is mind-numbingly complicated and its reaction to mods is difficult to predict at best. Upgrading multiple components all at once (wheels & tires + coil springs + shocks + struts + whatever) can have unpredictable and undesirable consequences. Changing one thing at a time like you are doing is smarter, and it will leave you better off in the end.

Don't underestimate your desire to continue down this rabbit hole though, once you've upgraded one component and liked the results.

Improving the car's looks and driving experience with a set of wheels and tires can very easily lead to a set of lowering springs and high performance shocks/struts. But if you lower it and stiffen up the suspension, the wheels and tires you previously chose may no longer be the best fit. Now what?

Improving the car's straight-line traction can easily lead to weekends at the drag strip. But 20" wheels are no bueno when trying to clock ultra-low E.T.s in the quarter. Time for 18" wheels with drag slicks. But what if you're still paying off the 20" wheel upgrade?

Straightening out the curves usually ends with a realization that the stock brakes are inadequate for all but stop and go city driving. Swapping in a set of Brembos would yield tremendous benefits in hauling ass and stopping in time, yet the bigger the brake caliper, the fewer wheels you can run. Now you have to sell those 6 mo old wheels you just bought to make it look better.

Plan ahead is all I'm saying...that is, if you're a hopeless gearhead modder like most of us. If you possess some self-control and can say 'no' to the mod bug any time, then disregard what I'm saying. I'm sick in the head and merely trying to help others who may also suffer from my affliction but don't yet know it.
I appreciate the in depth response. I definitely want to build this thing up, but its got some mileage on it and I honestly have no clue where to start, i feel that itch tho. I think the next thing Im getting is an exhaust kit (it has a flowmaster 40 series on it right now) and a handheld tuner. The shift points are all messed up. After that I justttt might be content for a while lol. One more question, if the front rims are 20x8.5 offset 15mm with a 245/45r20 and the rear are 20x10.5 offset 20mm with 275/40r20, the rear wheels would stick out wider than the front, correct?
 

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Hey yall. I'm starting to steer away from stock specs for my 2010 RT and need to know if this set up would work. all four are on 245/40R20 right now. I'll prob get different rims, but that same size if this would work.
Hi & welcome.
I just recently did a new wheel & tire package on my 2016 R/T Plus. Went similar to what you want as far as offsets go. I have no rubs in the back at all & love the stance. Only thing I noticed is the backs tilt in at the top slightly, not bad but I don't know if that's how the camber or toe is setup from the factory & just never noticed it w/ the stock wheels & tires. Anyway, back to the tire shop to find out if it can be adjusted..

Fronts are riding on American Racing VN338 BOSS Graphite w/Diamond Cut Lip. 20x8.5 Offset: +14mm. Wrapped with PIRELLI
245/45ZR20 Tires.
Back is riding on American Racing VN338 BOSS Graphite w/Diamond Cut Lip. 20x10 Offset +20. Wrapped with PIRELLI
295/40R20 Tires.


This is my setup, along with a few pics. Hope it helps & best of luck.

Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Vehicle registration plate
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Vehicle registration plate
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Land vehicle
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Automotive tail & brake light
 
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