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Discussion Starter #1
I want one that looks like the one in the pic. I don't know blowers too well....I don't even know if I can add it to my 5.7 hemi. Somebody help a brother out and give me the crash course on what the blower market offers?

FB_IMG_1591850481744.jpg
 

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That's an old school setup for use with Carburetors. Do a search in the forum on Super Charger you should get quite a bit of info on boosting a 5.7.
 

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If you want a PD type supercharger (I run a magnuson on my 5.7, which I installed myself, because it is quiet, reliable, good street manners, passes IL emissions and relatively inexpensive compared to other PD systems) reach out to Luke @stevewhite, they have install A LOT of superchargers systems.

The old school setup will cost some coin and won't pass emissions in most states.
 

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Imo the one that looks the most like an old style 6-71 blower like the one in the pic is the kenne bells. But you're not putting a blower on just for looks right? It just seems like you may not know what you're getting yourself into with a blower by your post.
 

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Ahh...the the ol’ bug catcher

Judging by the size of that thing, i doubt its still a 5.7 under there
 

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what you see above does not exist, well sort of, customs built and stupid expensive, if thats what your looking for be prepared to spend 20k easily

best bang for the buck,

complete kit 6 psi for the 5.7, including tuning

What's that kit come with as far as the fuel pump? Boost a pump? Everyday I keep switching back and forth between p1x and Magnuson.
 

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no pump, at 6psi not required
Luke
 
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everything needed to install
 

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does not include any fuel pumps

includes tuning
 
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and the 6.4 is fragile, 6psi max with a good fuel pump setup
 

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I go pretty hard on my 8PSI magnuson setup on the track and street. I only see two issues with it. 1. belt slip, 2. there's a flat spot before boost. I haven't seen a dual pulley setup but that would be ideal
 

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Belt slip can be fixed with a heavy duty tensioner like the one offered by thump racing or you can go with an overdrive main pulley and larger SC pulley. As for the flat spot before boost, you need to remove the restrictor in the bypass and tune the air tables so throttle blade essentially controls onset of boost.
 

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Belt slip can be fixed with a heavy duty tensioner like the one offered by thump racing or you can go with an overdrive main pulley and larger SC pulley. As for the flat spot before boost, you need to remove the restrictor in the bypass and tune the air tables so throttle blade essentially controls onset of boost.
I get what your saying, I put the Dayco on when I installed it but an even heavier duty tensioner is still a band-aid. I'm really surprised no one has developed a dual pulley system.

I was told you do not want to be making boost at low RPM, that's why the pill is in there so I don't plan on removing it. My DD is a 3.0T Audi which I think has a similar bypass but there is no flat spot. I think a good tuner might be able to remove that feeling from the car without removing the pill.

I'm wrapping up my home remodel so I'll probably be back to working on the car next summer. The next phase is exhaust and a dyno tune. Later on, I'll do springs and cam but I'm not sure when I'll get to that - I should have done the springs when I did the push rods - live and learn.
 

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The pill is there because the tune offered by magnuson does not alter the air or cam tables.

 

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My tune came from Arlington so I'm not sure about that theory. I didn't see anything in the thread on those tables being missing. Reading more, the Audi has an electric bypass valve so it doesnt rely on vacuum to operate like the Magnuson unit, hence smoother operation of the bypass valve. Is there a senor that measures rotor pressure? The only way to really know if removing the restrictor and straight tuning works is to measure it, else I would assume you are increasing the load on your SC and wearing out the rotors faster while part throttle / cruise.
 

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My tune came from Arlington so I'm not sure about that theory. I didn't see anything in the thread on those tables being missing. Reading more, the Audi has an electric bypass valve so it doesnt rely on vacuum to operate like the Magnuson unit, hence smoother operation of the bypass valve. Is there a senor that measures rotor pressure? The only way to really know if removing the restrictor and straight tuning works is to measure it, else I would assume you are increasing the load on your SC and wearing out the rotors faster while part throttle / cruise.
So did mine (although I think Petty's Garage was providing tuning support to Arrington at the time) and the airflow tables were untouched...same with the cam. It's not that they are missing just that they are left stock. The pill is inserted in an attempt to reduce surge because the tables are left stock. If you read Hemituna's explanations they make total sense as to why you don't want the restrictor and instead control airflow thru air and cam table modification.
 
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