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That sounds good in theory, but it's just coming from one tuner on the internet, not from an engineer at Eaton or Magnuson. Call me a skeptic, but I'd love to see some real world data measurements of the difference in bypass vacuum or rotor pressure at various throttle positions before making the change. I'm certain it feels better, but I'm still skeptical of the load your putting on the rotors without data.
 

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As an engineer myself I always question work of other engineers. I have had many experiences in my career where the so called "expert" was wrong. Eaton/Magnuson may be great at designing PD blowers but when it comes to tuning (have looked at their baseline) they do the bare minimum. Again the restrictor is not there to limit load on the rotors but to reduce the light switch effect when rolling on the throttle. This can be completely solved within the tune.
 

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If they went electronic we could just forget about all of this :ROFLMAO:.

If the dyno tuner I find recommends this, I'll make sure they hook up a vacuum gauge to test. Seems weird that no one has done this yet with making this modification to their car, or maybe they have and they aren't sharing it online.
 

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There are electronic bypass systems available like smooth boost for the magnuson. In fact I bought it but only to use it to control boost levels, kind of like a valet function. Have yet to install it as I want to enjoy the car while the weather is still nice. Plus I have other mods planned so it has taken a backseat.

As for removing the restrictor there are plenty of folks who have done it. There are also plenty of folks you tried kill mode (connect bypass to different vacuum port) or insta-boost mod (inserting a larger opening restrictor or removing restrictor all together or keeping bypass valve closed with a zip tie). Thing is the tune needs to be modified to ensure fueling and spark are appropriate since boost kicks in sooner.
 

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Sweet, I didn't know that. Do you have a link you can share? I would assume most people doing those mods aren't keeping those cars more than 2-3 years and 75k+ miles so they really won't worry about wearing out their rotors or coatings. I probably will, although, I've had it 8 years now and I'm only at 23k miles but they are basically all track or hard driving. I just sent a message to David Freiburger and see if they could test this this stuff out on Engine Masters.
 

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Here is the product.

I removed the restrictor a while ago and never plan to sell the challenger. If your car is running fine with the restrictor installed then I would say don't change it. But if you are looking for a more lively drive experience then removing it and getting a re-tune will definitely put a smile on your face.

I am a big fan of Freiburger and to be honest he is the only reason I subscribed to motor trend. Just finished binge watching roadkill with david and steve (he is growing on me) and I am bummed out because there are no new episodes. I doubt engine masters would do a show on this as they mostly test with carbs which is not possible with a magnuson/hemi set-up.
 

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I get what your saying, I put the Dayco on when I installed it but an even heavier duty tensioner is still a band-aid. I'm really surprised no one has developed a dual pulley system.

I was told you do not want to be making boost at low RPM, that's why the pill is in there so I don't plan on removing it. My DD is a 3.0T Audi which I think has a similar bypass but there is no flat spot. I think a good tuner might be able to remove that feeling from the car without removing the pill.

I'm wrapping up my home remodel so I'll probably be back to working on the car next summer. The next phase is exhaust and a dyno tune. Later on, I'll do springs and cam but I'm not sure when I'll get to that - I should have done the springs when I did the push rods - live and learn.
Is the dayco actually an improvement over the OEM? Or is it an oem replacement? My cars got some miles so I'm sure I'll be due for a tensioner when I add the blower.
 

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I ran a dayco before getting a thump racing tensioner from a member here. Dayco is an improvement over OEM but I found it still will allow belt slip when I would drop down into 3rd and hammer the throttle. If I had to do it all over again I probably would have gone with the setup Luke mentioned where you run a larger overdrive crank pulley and a larger SC pulley. The thump racing tensioner is a beast and I get zero slip but my fear is it could be over stressing the water pump bearing. So far it's been more than a year and the pump seems to be holding up but as you know they are prone to failure even with a stock tensioner.
 
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