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Hi all. My new Scat was delivered to my dealer today and I will be picking it up Monday. My dealer gave me the info packet that was in the trunk with the what I thought included the owners manual but apparently it doesn't. What literature I have doesn't discuss proper engine break-in during the first 500 miles. So I have two questions:

1. Should the car come with a detailed owners manual and not just the vague "Essential Information Guide"?

2. Anyone no the proper procedure for a 2019 6.4 SRT engine?
 

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Hi all. My new Scat was delivered to my dealer today and I will be picking it up Monday. My dealer gave me the info packet that was in the trunk with the what I thought included the owners manual but apparently it doesn't. What literature I have doesn't discuss proper engine break-in during the first 500 miles. So I have two questions:

1. Should the car come with a detailed owners manual and not just the vague "Essential Information Guide"?

2. Anyone no the proper procedure for a 2019 6.4 SRT engine?

You should get an owners manual with the car. The owners manual may have been held back to hand it over to you when the car is handed over to you.


In the meantime, here's the section on engine break in from the 2018 Challenger SRT/Hellcat Owner's Manual (5th edition):


ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS


The following tips will be helpful in obtaining optimum
performance and maximum durability for your new SRT
vehicle.


Despite modern technology and World Class manufacturing
methods, the moving parts of the vehicle must still
wear in with each other. This wearing in occurs mainly
during the first 500 miles (805 km) and continues through
the first oil change interval.


It is recommended for the operator to observe the following
driving behaviors during the new vehicle break-in
period:
0 to 100 miles (0 to 161 km):
• Do not allow the engine to operate at idle for an
extended period of time.
• Depress the accelerator pedal slowly and not more than
halfway to avoid rapid acceleration.
• Avoid aggressive braking.
• Drive with the engine speed less than 3,500 RPM.
• Maintain vehicle speed below 55 mph (88 km/h) and
observe local speed limits.



100 to 300 miles (161 to 483 km):
• Depress the accelerator pedal slowly and not more than
halfway to avoid rapid acceleration in lower gears (1st to
3rd gears).
• Avoid aggressive braking.
• Drive with the engine speed less than 5,000 RPM.
• Maintain vehicle speed below 70 mph (112 km/h) and
observe local speed limits.
300 to 500 miles (483 to 805 km):
• Exercise the full engine rpm range, shifting manually at
higher rpms when possible.
• Do not perform sustained operation with the accelerator
pedal at wide open throttle.
• Maintain vehicle speed below 85 mph (136 km/h) and
observe local speed limits.
For the first 1500 miles (2414 km):
• Do not participate in track events, sport driving schools,
or similar activities during the first 1500 miles (2414 km).
NOTE: Check engine oil with every refueling and add if
necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher
through the first oil change interval. Running the engine
with an oil level below the add mark can cause severe
engine damage.


My advice would be to unless your car's owner manual forbids it to have the oil changed early. I had my 2018 Hellcat's oil changed at around 500 miles, then again at 2K miles then at 5K miles. Car has just around 8K miles on it now and I'll have the oil changed again sometime between now and when it gets to 10K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Rockster. I will make sure I get a proper owners manual on delivery day. As for first oil changes I always changed a new vehicle at 500 miles then follow a 5,000 oci after that. With this car I'll follow what you advised. I already have several oil change worth's of Penzoil 0W40 in the garage. What filter you running, Mopar/SRT filter?
 

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Mine just received a brand new 6.4.I too did 500 mile change.next one at 3000 mark.I was verbally told nothing over 5000 rpms.so far so good.1500 on it.zero oil use thus far.
 

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I believe the srt filter is the better of the two.I think it's larger.guys on here are,a great plethora of all around know how on these beautiful cars.
 

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Owners manual is online and is an app in Uconnect. Doesn't come with a paper manual. 300-500 mile break-in is fun. Basically it says to wring it out. My 18 SP hasn't used a drop of oil in 1200 miles. Suggest you download it on your smart phone so you have it in car. Can't access the Uconnect app while moving.
 

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Call Dodge customer service at 1-800-423-6343 to request your Owners Manual, have your VIN handy and they will send them to you, think it will be three books.

On the oil, remember the 6.4L requires oil changes minimum every 6 months or 6,000 miles, the factory filter is the 899 which you can buy anywhere or the 041 SRT filter is available thru Amazon.



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Call Dodge customer service at 1-800-423-6343 to request your Owners Manual, have your VIN handy and they will send them to you, think it will be three books.

On the oil, remember the 6.4L requires oil changes minimum every 6 months or 6,000 miles, the factory filter is the 899 which you can buy anywhere or the 041 SRT filter is available thru Amazon.



Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Never really got the month thing with Oil changes.Oil does not break down sitting in the bottom of a oil pan. I guess if you are a Taxi driver were your car sits for hours running you could apply the month schedule to the mix.They should put it in as hours like my John Deere.
 

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Never really got the month thing with Oil changes.Oil does not break down sitting in the bottom of a oil pan. I guess if you are a Taxi driver were your car sits for hours running you could apply the month schedule to the mix.They should put it in as hours like my John Deere.
Agree but if the worst happens, they will be looking for service records or twice yearly receipts otherwise they will blame the failure on your "neglect". Once per year with a good synthetic on a low mile car is totally fine but FCA won't buy it strictly because it's an SRT so every owner must be racing it. :rolleyes:

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Never really got the month thing with Oil changes.Oil does not break down sitting in the bottom of a oil pan. I guess if you are a Taxi driver were your car sits for hours running you could apply the month schedule to the mix.They should put it in as hours like my John Deere.
If you have low mileage at the 6 month period, it is assumed that you take a lot of short trips. This can cause water to occur in your oil.

Even in perfectly sealed engines, water intrudes and forms condensation within the engine. For every gallon of gasoline burned, a little more than a gallon of water vapor forms as a byproduct. During the course of longer trips, the engine reaches its ideal operating temperature, and the heat causes any condensed water to evaporate. If the car travels only short trips, abnormal water accumulation can result because the engine does not reach a temperature that is sufficient to burn off the excess water.
 

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If there was a gallon of water in any engine the dipstick would show a milkshake look on it. I have cars in storage that only get driven a few times a year but the few trips they make they always come up to normal temps. Most of those trips a 1/4 mile at a time always burn's off any water that would have formed. Keeps the back tires clean too. I do change the oil once a year in every car I own except my truck it gets changed every 5k if that was a month or six months ..My Scat Pack I traded in had 1450 miles on it it was a 15MY. If I applied the six month rule that would have been 7 oil changes and it would have needed one more in a couple months.I changed the oil one time at 500 miles a year after I bought it and when I traded it in the oil looked like it was just poured out of the bottle.My cars sit in a air conditioned and heated garage no up and down temperature swings to cause condensation to form on anything.
 

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The only Penzoil Synthetic 0w-40 I am finding has European Blend written on it. This can't be correct?
Anyone have a link to correct oil and best filters please?
 

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Google Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40.

Plenty of places to buy it. My little dealer stocks it. Last time I paid around $7.50/quart. Might be even less now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Short trips are indeed a cause for condensation to form. Another point to consider is that blow-by gases cause the oil to turn acidic so even low mile oil could in theory be acidic. In reality changing the oil once a year on a low mile vehicle would likely cause zero engine issue's over the ownership period. However, I'm not gambling my warranty away on the cost of an oil change.

As a side note many years ago I worked in a shop that had a propane powered forklift. That thing never ran for more than 5 minutes at a time, just a quick pallet unload from a truck or to move something from point A to point B in the shop. The oil in that thing looked like mayonnaise all the time. I changed it myself once and what drained out of it was disgusting. I honestly don't know how the engine didn't seize.
 

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Short trips are indeed a cause for condensation to form. Another point to consider is that blow-by gases cause the oil to turn acidic so even low mile oil could in theory be acidic. In reality changing the oil once a year on a low mile vehicle would likely cause zero engine issue's over the ownership period. However, I'm not gambling my warranty away on the cost of an oil change.

As a side note many years ago I worked in a shop that had a propane powered forklift. That thing never ran for more than 5 minutes at a time, just a quick pallet unload from a truck or to move something from point A to point B in the shop. The oil in that thing looked like mayonnaise all the time. I changed it myself once and what drained out of it was disgusting. I honestly don't know how the engine didn't seize.
The engines that are built today do not have the blow by like old engines did and yes short trips that do not heat the motor up to temp will cause some condensation but would burn off the next longer drive if there was one. A dealer can deny a warranty claim for almost any reason they can come up with.Old smelly oil would be a good one but no car I have ever owned has had that happen. Oils today are way better then years ago. Remember the Quaker State oil problems from the 60's and 70"s engines were caked up with sludge after just a few thousand miles with that crap oil.
 

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Thanks Rockster. I will make sure I get a proper owners manual on delivery day. As for first oil changes I always changed a new vehicle at 500 miles then follow a 5,000 oci after that. With this car I'll follow what you advised. I already have several oil change worth's of Penzoil 0W40 in the garage. What filter you running, Mopar/SRT filter?

Not sure what filter is used. I have the car's oil changed at the dealer and the dealer uses whatever filter the factory calls for.



I just checked the service invoices. The dealer used filter part #: 4884899AC. (List cost: $8.95; Net: $5.35)
 

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If there was a gallon of water in any engine the dipstick would show a milkshake look on it. I have cars in storage that only get driven a few times a year but the few trips they make they always come up to normal temps. Most of those trips a 1/4 mile at a time always burn's off any water that would have formed. Keeps the back tires clean too. I do change the oil once a year in every car I own except my truck it gets changed every 5k if that was a month or six months ..My Scat Pack I traded in had 1450 miles on it it was a 15MY. If I applied the six month rule that would have been 7 oil changes and it would have needed one more in a couple months.I changed the oil one time at 500 miles a year after I bought it and when I traded it in the oil looked like it was just poured out of the bottle.My cars sit in a air conditioned and heated garage no up and down temperature swings to cause condensation to form on anything.



I'm sure Cuda340 didn't mean all the water that is produced ends up in then engine just like the something like 19 pounds of carbon in one form or another produced per gallon of gasoline burned doesn't all end up in the engine.


I can tell you over 4K miles of winter driving the oil in my Boxster contained 7% water, which works out to with 9+ quarts total oil capacity around 1/2 quart of oil. Water accumulation in oil is very real.


And from this I'm sure comes that 6 month oil change guideline from Dodge.
 

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I'm sure Cuda340 didn't mean all the water that is produced ends up in then engine just like the something like 19 pounds of carbon in one form or another produced per gallon of gasoline burned doesn't all end up in the engine.


I can tell you over 4K miles of winter driving the oil in my Boxster contained 7% water, which works out to with 9+ quarts total oil capacity around 1/2 quart of oil. Water accumulation in oil is very real.


And from this I'm sure comes that 6 month oil change guideline from Dodge.

Winter driving is the reason a engine mite not never come up to temperature.Especially in something like your Boxster that has a oil cooler to keep the temps down in spirited summer driving So of course it is going to produce some water in the oil. The six months is for a engine's like in a taxi or a delivery vehicle something that runs for long periods of time day and night. I have been building engines for over fifty years and have never had a engine come back to me because of water in the oil from not changing it. Can not rule out the transmission tank that failed in a few radiator's that put fluid into the cooling system.
 

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Challengers from '16 MY forward have the owners manual (digital version) uploaded in the uConnect radio.

There's multiple levels of recommended break-in as well as initial speeds (differential break-in) recommended as well for the 392 / 6.4 engines and the 6.2 'Cats.

The 5.7s have a more brief break-in called out in the first 300mi.
 
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