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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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I'm hesitant to remove the front clip (by myself) since you have a large painted part that could get scuffed. its a job I'd want a helper with to avoid any issues.

so far on the things I've done, haven't removed any front fascias yet

plus there's the rivets that hold the top of the fascia @ the hood seal that you have to replace when you do that operation.
Only rivets I replaced are at the wheel wells. Then again, mine is a 2015 so no experience on the pre-2015 clips. Hardest part is getting to the 2 screws that are essentially inside the front clip but a deep well 10mm socket and stubby 1/4" drive make it easier if you tackle it from the bottom of the car. No need for 2 people BUT there are 2 plastic pins at the top the you need to be careful not to crack. Maybe I am biased because I have removed it so many times but really makes things a whole lot easier.

As a matter of fact this weekend I plan to remove my rear clip to finally install the LED reflectors which I think is harder to do than the front clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Only rivets I replaced are at the wheel wells. Then again, mine is a 2015 so no experience on the pre-2015 clips. Hardest part is getting to the 2 screws that are essentially inside the front clip but a deep well 10mm socket and stubby 1/4" drive make it easier if you tackle it from the bottom of the car. No need for 2 people BUT there are 2 plastic pins at the top the you need to be careful not to crack. Maybe I am biased because I have removed it so many times but really makes things a whole lot easier.
I've removed it twice since installation, once for a cam install and once for the motor swap.
Both times my better half was assisting me with the lifting and setting aside to avoid scuffing, and both times I managed to break the little retainers that attach it to the front of the fender ($15 each from mopar).
I'll need to remove it again eventually, but so far I was able to avoid it.
And yes, there are many more one time use clips that need to be replaced. Probably due to the chin spoiler not being a factory option on my 2010 R/T.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
The radiator upgrade is more than halfway done.
So the factory "seals" that go on the top and bottom of the radiator do not transfer, as the replacement radiator is almost twice the thickness. The only part that does transfer is the drain hose.
I removed the thermostat and flushed the block by attaching a garden hose to the lower radiator hose, this allowed me to flush until everything ran clear.
I purchased replacement upper and lower hoses with ones that were recommended by rockauto when I purchased the upgraded radiator. The water pump connection size is the same but the openings that attach to the radiator are larger (to accommodate the larger upper and lower radiator connection size). The factory hoses would not have fit.
New hose clamps are also needed for the radiator end, I had two stainless steel ones available.
One major difference on the wider radiator installation: I was unable to attach the condenser / power steering cooler to the radiator until it was seated on the radiator support. The extra width prevents the lifting the radiator condenser as an assembly to seat it in the rubber feet, the condenser hits the upper cross member. Not a big deal but added and additional 10 mins to the reassembly.
Still on the list:
Purchase a $10 "fan install kit" to reattach Deralle oil cooler to front of condenser/radiator assembly.
Remove and clean the coolant reservoir.
Re-install fan.
Fill, run, and drain with tap water to ensure all the old coolant is gone.
Fill with Zerex G05
Re-install catch can, shaker, zip tie fuel lines back in place
Re-install belly pan.

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Discussion Starter #44
Finished up with the install last night.
Only had 1 issue, the bleeder plug in the water pump would not budge. Even with the impact it didn't move.
To facilitate bleeding the cooling system I drilled a bleeder hole in the perimeter of the thermostat, the 180* tstat I'm using didn't have one. I disconnected the upper hose at the tstat housing and filled the reservoir, this purged most of the air from the system. The rest I burped by loosening the cap periodically when warm with the car on ramps.
I took just shy of 2 gallons of coolant to top it off, not sure what the capacity is.
I located the oil cooler on the lower right portion of the condenser coil with the fan install kit I picked up for $7.
I'm calling it a win as the temps don't exceed 190 during wot pulls, with the old setup it would hit 200-205*.
The real test will be the upcoming Texas summer.

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Is that the single fan, I think so becuase of the resistor at the top right? If so, you ever think of upgrading to the dual fan?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Is that the single fan, I think so becuase of the resistor at the top right? If so, you ever think of upgrading to the dual fan?
It is the single fan setup.
I was going to upgrade the fan first until I found this 2 row radiator for a great deal on rockauto (see post #24).
A replacement 2 fan setup was ~$250-$300, the radiator was just over $100 shipped.
If more airflow is needed in low speed traffic I'll probably purchase the 2 fan setup that came on the SRT8 later on.

I went for a drive to the car wash (brushless) yesterday, ambient temps in the 80s with 75% humidity.
With the A/C on temps never got over 190*.
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Plus - Billet Clearcoat
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Wouldnt hurt to get a 180 degree T-Stat instead of the stock 203
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Plus - Billet Clearcoat
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Would that go for everyone that does this? Even those not using a tuner.
 

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Would that go for everyone that does this? Even those not using a tuner.
Most likely, especially if you live in the northern part of the states. What will happen is the engine will throw a code for taking too long to warm up.
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Plus - Billet Clearcoat
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Most likely, especially if you live in the northern part of the states. What will happen is the engine will throw a code for taking too long to warm up.
I live in Vegas and it will get to 110+ in summer so was thinking of doing this to mine. Will i have an issue with codes? Mine warms up real fast as it is,.... even in winter. Much faster than my Ram with the same engine. But the Ram has more air flow to it with the big grille and larger engine compartment so it running hot isnt an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Wouldnt hurt to get a 180 degree T-Stat instead of the stock 203
check my signature block
I installed a 180* thermostat years ago, it gets hot in Texas.
I use hp tuners but have not had to disable that code yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
based on a impromptu race in Mexico yesterday I discovered over heating is no longer and issue...nor is spanking a couple of loud 350 / 370 Z cars from 30-140 :)
It's been a while since I did anything that stupid, but there was no traffic and the natural high is awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
update: I installed a 160* t-stat and am now able to keep the temps ~175-180* cruising or WOT with the AC on.
I've adjusted the fan speeds accordingly, and will monitor the oil temps and viscosity.
This should help some with KR and allow me a few more degrees timing, but it will require more frequent oil changes.
 

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update: I installed a 160* t-stat and am now able to keep the temps ~175-180* cruising or WOT with the AC on.
I've adjusted the fan speeds accordingly, and will monitor the oil temps and viscosity.
This should help some with KR and allow me a few more degrees timing, but it will require more frequent oil changes.
The real test will come once you slap on a supercharger....can't wait for that thread. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #56
The real test will come once you slap on a supercharger....can't wait for that thread. :)
That's going to be a minute, my oldest has 2 more years of college to complete.
Any car project money will be redirected until that's finished.
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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Maybe a nice trade school instead ;)

A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Maybe a nice trade school instead ;)

A Guy
lol she doesn't mind getting her hands dirty but she'll be doing IT thankfully
 
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