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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone is suffering from bad wheel hop and is not really sure how to get rid of it, install a set of Whiteline cradle bushings and BMR lower trailing arms and it will be 100% gone.

My car has always suffered from pretty bad wheel hop. I think most of the 6 speed manual guys are probably in the same boat with tons of torque and the 3.91 gears not helping things. Last year I put on a set of Nitto 555R's to finally get some traction and good 60' times, but at the track I was still bouncing so bad I couldn't even do much of a burnout in the water box as the car would just wheel hop like crazy. Needless to say my 60' times were still pretty bad. I tried doing research on how to eliminate wheel hop but there wasn't ever a good consensus, or good concrete answers. Some people said that doing just lower trailing arms would probably solve the problem while others would chime in and say they still had some wheel hop after installing LTA's. Guys would say just run slicks at the track and the softer sidewall would eliminate it, but my thought was what about the rest of the time you're driving on the street? Some guys would swear by the hopnot kit and others would say it wasn't a good solution and wouldn't totally fix the problem. I found one post where a member had installed whiteline cradle bushings on his car and that seemed to fix it, but it was one post out of a ton of threads and comments sections and videos. I pulled the trigger on the whiteline cradle bushings and BMR upper and lower trailing arms. I rented a bay with a 2 post lift to do the install and got the cradle bushings and LTA's in. I ran out of time to do the upper trailing arms, so these impressions are just the cradle bushings and lower trailing arms.

My wheel hop is completely gone. I have not been able to replicate it since the install. The whole rear of the car just feels planted and firm when accelerating hard and launching. The car feels absolutely amazing now and the engine torque feels like it's more in tune with the rear of the car. Just so much more responsive and firm. Yet when driving regularly you can't really tell a difference from stock, the ride isn't really any more stiff or jarring. I tried a hand full of hard launches. I started at 1500, then 5 or so at 2000rpm. I could not get the car to wheel hop, in fact with the nittos it was grabbing so well and launching so good the seatbelts would lock up on me. There was 1 launch in that first set of 2000rpm launches that I did that wasn't on as nice of a section of road and I spun a bit, but I actually spun, not hopped, and then just picked up when I got traction! Finally I decided to try a ridiculous 3000 rpm launch, figuring if I can't get it to wheel hop doing that, it's not going to. I did 2 of these launches. The first one I actually hooked right up and got a great launch. The second one I tried at 3000 I spun a lot, but still no hopping.

I am extremely happy with the results of this install. I've been fighting wheel hop for 11 years now and to finally get rid of it has me just pumped. If you're looking to get rid of wheel hop in your Challenger I can't recommend the the Whiteline cradle bushings and BMR LTA's enough!
 

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I have heard many times that the cradle bushing replacement was the only "REAL" cure for wheel hop, but was under the impression that it was a terrible job to do. Just how much of a pain in the ass was it to do the cradle bushings??
 

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the bushings have to be pressed out of the cradle - so its a lot of work. It can be done, but having the right tools and a lift help a lot.

It can be done with jackstands and a floor jack - but space it more restricted vs. being able to lift the body higher
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the bushings have to be pressed out of the cradle - so its a lot of work. It can be done, but having the right tools and a lift help a lot.

It can be done with jackstands and a floor jack - but space it more restricted vs. being able to lift the body higher
We took a different approach. We saw how insane it would be to try and drop everything including the cradle out pretty much to the ground to use a proper press to take the bushings out we decided it would be way faster and easier with out having to drop anything else out if we just used a sawzall to cut some slits on the inside of the old bushings for relief and then used prybars to pry them out. The first one took quite a while as we were figuring out the best way to approach it, but the rest of the bushings maybe took 10mins each to remove. It was actually surprisingly easy. We just loosened the cradle so there was around a 2" gap between the top of the bushings and the underside of the car so we could safely cut only the old bushings with the sawzall. The new ones just fit right in by hand without any difficulty, and then we just tightened the bolts back up, put the exhaust back in and were good to go.
 

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I made a video of this install if anyone was curious.
This video helped a lot! I have a 2012 SRT8 and was able to cut them out and save so much labor/ time.

I did it on my back, but was able to get the car high enough with jack stands to get the job done. I appreciate your write up and video!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This video helped a lot! I have a 2012 SRT8 and was able to cut them out and save so much labor/ time.

I did it on my back, but was able to get the car high enough with jack stands to get the job done. I appreciate your write up and video!
Glad it helped!
 
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