Who does the best 392 cams?

40745 Views 65 Replies 19 Participants Last post by crystalblue_392, 29 d ago

Spartan040

Discussion Starter · Jul 4, 2020

There's a lot of companies offering cams for the 392 Hemi, but it's hard to know who to choose. B Mason from YouTube has a cam that's offered through Peitz Performance. David Weber from MMX makes cams. HHP offers them. Comp Cams makes a stage 2 HRT kit that's supposed to be an excellent shelf grind that offers an 80hp gain from the cam alone. Texas Speed just started doing gen 3 Hemi cams. Jannetty Racing and Jay Greene do cams.

Who the hell do I go with??

I'm not looking so much for peak numbers, but for reduced 0-60's, more torque in the mid to high RPM range, minimal loss of low end torque and throttle response, and max possible gains throughout the entire power band, while maintaining good everyday drivability and not requiring a torque converter. I'm not even looking for an insane "chop." I don't care if its an NSR cam or not, I'm planning to pull the heads to upgrade the springs and delete the MDS hardware anyway.

It seems the two biggest companies in cams for the 392 are MMX and HHP. Anyone had experience with their cams?

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FreddyG

· #2 · Jul 4, 2020

This is what I'd do and just a suggestion, but e-mail all of the people that you mentioned and tell them what you're looking for and want and let them take it from there. Some might have better pricing than some of the others, some might be easier to tune (I'd guess Jay Greene could tune his own cams in his sleep but that's just a guess) and weigh out the advantages and disadvantages of each person. I'd also search this forum for Folks that have used each of the businesses and how they like them and their products.

Customer Service is a Big deal to me because things don't always go smoothly and the sign of a good business is one that handles those problems in a efficient and Professional manner.

Back to the cam............My thoughts about putting a cam in is that if I'm in for a penny, then I'm in for a pound. I'd want one that has the Rumpity Rump, Choppy sound but not at the expense of being able to drive the thing.

Please let us know which one that you decide to use and which cam that you go with and Good Luck!

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White R/T

· #3 · Jul 5, 2020

A real performance cam for the Gen3 Hemi won't have much rump rump . not to say you can't have that because you can..it's just not best power wise.. today's cylinder heads flow so well that the old school idle overlap that all love so much actually kills performance. decide if you want performance or if you want to be a cruise in poser. contact the cam grinder of your choice and be honest in what you're looking for. Green,MMX,Barton,HHP,OST etc etc.

Hal H

· #4 · Jul 5, 2020

I installed a MMX NSR cam in a friend's SRT 392 - I like the way the cam behaves - no loss of low or mid range and very good driveability. His rwhp is ~ 485 with the NSR cam.

this is in an M6 and you don't have to slip the clutch or go higher revs over what a stock M6 / 392 would drive like so it works great for daily driving

It has idle lope - MMX sells a version that is even more lope, but it sacrifices power.

I have a another friend that is looking at doing a cam swap for his 392, and probably will go with the Max Effort NA cam, which requires springs.

Any of the MMX cams require the phaser limiter which you're probably aware of.

If I were going to put a cam in my own 392, I'd go with the Max Effort NA cam.

Reactions: 2

Spartan040

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jul 5, 2020

Hal H said:
I installed a MMX NSR cam in a friend's SRT 392 - I like the way the cam behaves - no loss of low or mid range and very good driveability. His rwhp is ~ 485 with the NSR cam.

this is in an M6 and you don't have to slip the clutch or go higher revs over what a stock M6 / 392 would drive like so it works great for daily driving

It has idle lope - MMX sells a version that is even more lope, but it sacrifices power.

I have a another friend that is looking at doing a cam swap for his 392, and probably will go with the Max Effort NA cam, which requires springs.

Any of the MMX cams require the phaser limiter which you're probably aware of.

If I were going to put a cam in my own 392, I'd go with the Max Effort NA cam.

I have no issues with swapping out springs so I'd happily go with the max effort cam, as long as it doesn't hurt drivability. What kind of changes to the power band and peak numbers could I expect from that?

Mopar 19 SP

· #6 · Jul 5, 2020

I went with the comp cam 270. Most people going comp cam go 270 or 274. The 274 is a beast to tune. The 270 Offers mid range power gain whereas the 274 offers the gain at a tad bit higher RPMs. The folks above are correct, It was expensive to do with lifters, push rods, mds delete, phase limiter etc. however, it pays off when you think of it as staging. The final product will all add up. Hit me up if you want more info, I have sent a couple of guys my setup with everything you need on an 8 speed 392 cam swap. Part numbers and what it runs about around here in Chicago. If you can do yourself you will save a lot of money. As far as reliability etc it really comes down to the tuner. Again it’s a lot of money for the gain alone but if you think of it as staging it’ll be worth it at the end and the sound is amazing, def not like an old school muscle car but the lope is there.

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Spartan040

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 5, 2020

Mopar 19 SP said:
I went with the comp cam 270. Most people going comp cam go 270 or 274. The 274 is a beast to tune. The 270 Offers mid range power gain whereas the 274 offers the gain at a tad bit higher RPMs. The folks above are correct, It was expensive to do with lifters, push rods, mds delete, phase limiter etc. however, it pays off when you think of it as staging. The final product will all add up. Hit me up if you want more info, I have sent a couple of guys my setup with everything you need on an 8 speed 392 cam swap. Part numbers and what it runs about around here in Chicago. If you can do yourself you will save a lot of money. As far as reliability etc it really comes down to the tuner. Again it’s a lot of money for the gain alone but if you think of it as staging it’ll be worth it at the end and the sound is amazing, def not like an old school muscle car but the lope is there.

I'm not too put off by the cost, because the gain in performance and extra reliability by strengthening the top end of the engine will be worth it (so long as the tune is good).

I've never torn apart and wrenched on an engine, let alone the Hemi, so while I'd love to do all the wrenching myself I just don't know what I'm doing. Don't know anyone around me who speaks Mopar that could help either. Doesn't seem like the type of thing that I should learn on the fly.

So far as the sound, I'm fine with a little bit of chop, but not to the point that it sounds like the engine is going to stall and the whole car is shaking me to pieces at idle.

MMX is looking real good to me right now, they have a shelf grind Max Effort cam (requires springs, but that's fine, I was replacing them anyway) that adds about 100hp to the crank without sacrificing driveability or low end torque and it comes with pre-determined tunes (2 tuning credits) for only $350.

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Mopar 19 SP

· #8 · Jul 5, 2020

Spartan040 said:
I'm not too put off by the cost, because the gain in performance and extra reliability by strengthening the top end of the engine will be worth it (so long as the tune is good).

I've never torn apart and wrenched on an engine, let alone the Hemi, so while I'd love to do all the wrenching myself I just don't know what I'm doing. Don't know anyone around me who speaks Mopar that could help either. Doesn't seem like the type of thing that I should learn on the fly.

So far as the sound, I'm fine with a little bit of chop, but not to the point that it sounds like the engine is going to stall and the whole car is shaking me to pieces at idle.

MMX is looking real good to me right now, they have a shelf grind Max Effort cam (requires springs, but that's fine, I was replacing them anyway) that adds about 100hp to the crank without sacrificing driveability or low end torque and it comes with pre-determined tunes (2 tuning credits) for only $350.

That’s awesome man. I’ve read good things on the mmx cams. I’d double check the hp gain though just so your not disappointed. Most dyno numbers show around 35 to maybe 60hp to the wheels gain on a cam swap alone. There are several threads on here with numbers and some good videos on YouTube regarding actual gain from a cam swap. The range seems to come from tuning, and maximizing while maintaining safe function. Whoever you decide to go with I’m sure it will be awesome. Look forward to hearing what route you went. Best of luck.

Spartan040

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 5, 2020

Mopar 19 SP said:
That’s awesome man. I’ve read good things on the mmx cams. I’d double check the hp gain though just so your not disappointed. Most dyno numbers show around 35 to maybe 60hp to the wheels gain on a cam swap alone. There are several threads on here with numbers and some good videos on YouTube regarding actual gain from a cam swap. The range seems to come from tuning, and maximizing while maintaining safe function. Whoever you decide to go with I’m sure it will be awesome. Look forward to hearing what route you went. Best of luck.

That's about what MMX advertises for their NSR cams, although they do recommend a larger throttle body, a ported intake, and long tube headers for best results. I was planning on all of those things as well. Their dyno videos show a FBO and max effort cam setup making 500 wheel. I'd like to think that that isn't just hype!

I know the $ per horsepower isn't nearly as efficient as going supercharged, or even upgrading to a used Hellcat (which may still have a warranty, or an extended warranty), but I think it'd be cool to have something special and almost unseen these days: a large cube, naturally aspirated V8 with a cam making close to 600 crank horsepower. Of course, I also still have to think about driveability and how the power band is affected.

I wonder if it would be worth the extra 2 grand to get a head port and polish done? As far as I know these heads already flow extremely well from the factory, and too much flow could actually hurt power gains.

Mopar 19 SP

· #10 · Jul 5, 2020

Spartan040 said:
That's about what MMX advertises for their NSR cams, although they do recommend a larger throttle body, a ported intake, and long tube headers for best results. I was planning on all of those things as well. Their dyno videos show a FBO and max effort cam setup making 500 wheel. I'd like to think that that isn't just hype!

I know the $ per horsepower isn't nearly as efficient as going supercharged, or even upgrading to a used Hellcat (which may still have a warranty, or an extended warranty), but I think it'd be cool to have something special and almost unseen these days: a large cube, naturally aspirated V8 with a cam making close to 600 crank horsepower. Of course, I also still have to think about driveability and how the power band is affected.

I wonder if it would be worth the extra 2 grand to get a head port and polish done? As far as I know these heads already flow extremely well from the factory, and too much flow could actually hurt power gains.

I’m with you on having something you put together. I love feeling the change in stages. First thing I did was long tubes catted midpipe and first tune. Which as you know that first tune is pricey, getting the pcm unlocked etc. then I went cam springs lifters push rods and second tune. It’s nice feeling the difference in between stages. At least I like it. Others like it all out the box and that’s totally cool as well. Whatever your preference is, is the way to go. You get to make it your own. Your right I’ve read a lot about the stock heads and many people say the stock ones are impressive.
I’m looking into a stroker kit, ran into a guy with a 426 and wow was that impressive. He also had a pro charger though. He said that was the last thing he did. Have to admit that 426 along with the winding from the sc was so nice. These cars are pretty well built from factory, tons of owners just add the sc and are done with it and it’s still pretty impressive. That’s why I like this forum, you have guys doing all sorts of stuff. Fun to read and keep up with.

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Spartan040

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jul 5, 2020

Mopar 19 SP said:
I’m with you on having something you put together. I love feeling the change in stages. First thing I did was long tubes catted midpipe and first tune. Which as you know that first tune is pricey, getting the pcm unlocked etc. then I went cam springs lifters push rods and second tune. It’s nice feeling the difference in between stages. At least I like it. Others like it all out the box and that’s totally cool as well. Whatever your preference is, is the way to go. You get to make it your own. Your right I’ve read a lot about the stock heads and many people say the stock ones are impressive.
I’m looking into a stroker kit, ran into a guy with a 426 and wow was that impressive. He also had a pro charger though. He said that was the last thing he did. Have to admit that 426 along with the winding from the sc was so nice. These cars are pretty well built from factory, tons of owners just add the sc and are done with it and it’s still pretty impressive. That’s why I like this forum, you have guys doing all sorts of stuff. Fun to read and keep up with.

I bet that was a fun ride! Yeah, those strokers are best suited to superchargers. I'm told that with the intake manifold being a limiting factor for NA cars, they tend to lose some low end torque and tip end throttle response.

SpeedShift

· #12 · Jul 5, 2020

Hal H said:
I installed a MMX NSR cam in a friend's SRT 392 - I like the way the cam behaves - no loss of low or mid range and very good driveability. His rwhp is ~ 485 with the NSR cam.

this is in an M6 and you don't have to slip the clutch or go higher revs over what a stock M6 / 392 would drive like so it works great for daily driving

It has idle lope - MMX sells a version that is even more lope, but it sacrifices power.

I have a another friend that is looking at doing a cam swap for his 392, and probably will go with the Max Effort NA cam, which requires springs.

Any of the MMX cams require the phaser limiter which you're probably aware of.

If I were going to put a cam in my own 392, I'd go with the Max Effort NA cam.

Hall, did the new cam allow for a higher RPM ceiling?

Hal H

· #13 · Jul 5, 2020

SpeedShift said:
Hall, did the new cam allow for a higher RPM ceiling?

I wasn't involved with the tuning a local outfit near me did the tuning for the owner - they've done a lot of Hemis and Hellcats.

From the dyno graphs for MMX for their cams, it looks like the peak hp is 6,125 rpm, so not much reason to raise it beyond the OEM 6,400 rpm setting...IMO

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Chllngrswpr

· #14 · Jul 7, 2020

Spartan040 said:
I'm not looking so much for peak numbers, but for reduced 0-60's, more torque in the mid to high RPM range, minimal loss of low end torque and throttle response, and max possible gains throughout the entire power band, while maintaining good everyday drivability and not requiring a torque converter.

What you stated in the section above is almost impossible to do. When you purchase a cam it changes everything in the way an engine acts. More torque in mid to HIGH rpm is going to require a converter to work properly.
If you want torque and driveability then dont be looking at "2" or "3" stage cams. One step above stock is where you want to look. Then it becomes unreasonable to spend 1000 to 1500 on the parts. Thats not even with labor and tuning. Theres so much more than just changing a cam to get power. Its a package and understanding of what you want the engine to do BEFORE even considering a change. Most cams will require converter and gears plus the rest of the engine components to get power. It takes a complimented engine and NOT just one or two parts to make it work right and actually gain hp and torque. My advice to you is stay stock. Otherwise your going to waste $$ and be slower and disappointed only to pay someone to remove everything youve done. Understand what one component change will do to the rest of the engine. Then decide on what to do, but if i was in your situation. Id stay stock.

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Cominfromcamaro

· #15 · Jul 19, 2020

Spartan040 said:
There's a lot of companies offering cams for the 392 Hemi, but it's hard to know who to choose. B Mason from YouTube has a cam that's offered through Peitz Performance. David Weber from MMX makes cams. HHP offers them. Comp Cams makes a stage 2 HRT kit that's supposed to be an excellent shelf grind that offers an 80hp gain from the cam alone. Texas Speed just started doing gen 3 Hemi cams. Jannetty Racing and Jay Greene do cams.

Who the hell do I go with??

I'm not looking so much for peak numbers, but for reduced 0-60's, more torque in the mid to high RPM range, minimal loss of low end torque and throttle response, and max possible gains throughout the entire power band, while maintaining good everyday drivability and not requiring a torque converter. I'm not even looking for an insane "chop." I don't care if its an NSR cam or not, I'm planning to pull the heads to upgrade the springs and delete the MDS hardware anyway.

It seems the two biggest companies in cams for the 392 are MMX and HHP. Anyone had experience with their cams?

Comp cams has some and I think Texas speed does as well. I’m looking into them but haven’t gathered much info yet either. One thing I’ve learned about this website is that any and every mod you can do is a waste of time and money and you should just stay stock. If you want it, do the homework and get it, lots of people on the internet have done cams with plenty of success.

Spartan040

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jul 19, 2020

Cominfromcamaro said:
Comp cams has some and I think Texas speed does as well. I’m looking into them but haven’t gathered much info yet either. One thing I’ve learned about this website is that any and every mod you can do is a waste of time and money and you should just stay stock. If you want it, do the homework and get it, lots of people on the internet have done cams with plenty of success.

Oh yeah it's absolutely a waste of time and money. Most people, if they want more power, should probably just upgrade to the next trim level. Which I've thought about as well. It's hard to say no to a factory package like the Hellcat. But cammed NA cars are rare, cool beasts these days. Might be fun to have one, even though it would wreck the trade-in value.

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Mopar 19 SP

· #17 · Jul 19, 2020

There’s no right or wrong way. Sure you can stay stock. Sure you can upgrade trims. Sure it’s expensive. But is it a waste of time? I don’t think there’s a right answer to that. Some people aren’t after numbers and would rather build their own car as opposed to going factory upper trim. Some have the money for a hellcat but would rather build another trim. To tell someone what they should do is completely irrelevant. What may be a waste of time for someone may not be for another. Non challenger owners may say the same about our cars; why so much power, why so much for a two door etc.... to them it may be a waste to own a challenger. The point is to each their own. You can do whatever you want with your car. Leave subjective matter out of it and help guide fellow owners objectively.

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Cominfromcamaro

· #18 · Jul 20, 2020 (Edited)

Spartan040 said:
Oh yeah it's absolutely a waste of time and money. Most people, if they want more power, should probably just upgrade to the next trim level. Which I've thought about as well. It's hard to say no to a factory package like the Hellcat. But cammed NA cars are rare, cool beasts these days. Might be fun to have one, even though it would wreck the trade-in value.

Sorry, that was meant to be more sarcastic, I should have been more clear lol. Unfortunately what you see a lot on this website is a lot of people telling you not to waste your time which I find lame. I agree with you and I’m on the same page, I’d like something to be mine. I’m not looking to do mods because I’m trying to become a Hellcat, I would just like to build up the car I love. Mines just for fun because I can and if I can get into the 12’s (N/A in Colorado at 5700’) I will be very happy. I’m looking at learning some more along the way.

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Cominfromcamaro

· #19 · Jul 20, 2020

Mopar 19 SP said:
There’s no right or wrong way. Sure you can stay stock. Sure you can upgrade trims. Sure it’s expensive. But is it a waste of time? I don’t think there’s a right answer to that. Some people aren’t after numbers and would rather build their own car as opposed to going factory upper trim. Some have the money for a hellcat but would rather build another trim. To tell someone what they should do is completely irrelevant. What may be a waste of time for someone may not be for another. Non challenger owners may say the same about our cars; why so much power, why so much for a two door etc.... to them it may be a waste to own a challenger. The point is to each their own. You can do whatever you want with your car. Leave subjective matter out of it and help guide fellow owners objectively.

We 100% agree.

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Mopar 19 SP

· #20 · Jul 20, 2020

Cominfromcamaro said:
Sorry, that was meant to be more sarcastic, I should have been more clear lol. Unfortunately what you see a lot on this website is a lot of people telling you not to waste your time which I find lame. I agree with you and I’m on the same page, I’d like something to be mine. I’m not looking to do mods because I’m trying to become a Hellcat, I would just like to build up the car I love. Mines just for fun because I can and if I can get I to the 12’s (N/A in Colorado at 5700’) I will be very happy. I’m looking at learning some more along the way.

That is awesome man. No I get it completely, tons of people saying don’t do this because it’s a waste of time and that may be for them but not for another. What I do like is when people give objective advise such as one part over another and the whys. That’s good stuff. Good luck on your build

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