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Phantom Black SXT+ 100th Anniversay
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking about replacing my serpentine belt just for piece of mind. My 2014 SXT 3.6 has 50K miles and its a reletively inexpensive part and looks pretty easy to do. I'm guessing if you drive your car hard, it might be catching more of a beating but if you've done it, please post year and mileage. Any model and your recommendations welcome. Diagram is for my 3.6 V6. Thanks, B-
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Replacing the OE belt at 50K is not necessary even if it's been spiritedly driven much of its life up to that point. However, it won't necessarily hurt anything to put a new one in either. If you do change the belt out, it would be a good idea to replace the belt tensioner and idler pulley at the same time. Although, again, they will still have lots of life left in them too at only 50K.

Any of these parts you replace now should be kept for emergency use later in the event of a sudden malfunction down the road. They will be perfectly able to step in and keep the car running should something freeze up or get shredded in the middle of the night or in a weekend when access to a replacement could be a couple days away.
 

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Phantom Black SXT+ 100th Anniversay
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Nuke, as always sound advice that will be taken greatly into consideration. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think what’s going on in my mind is that I’m the second owner of this car and I don’t have any idea about the maintenance history although it looks like new inside and out and under the hood. The oil is clean, the belt looks good, the transmission fluid looks clean and everything is working fine. I’m just the kind of guy that likes to maintain his vehicle and document everything I do to it so I know that it’s been done.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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I was thinking about replacing my serpentine belt just for piece of mind. My 2014 SXT 3.6 has 50K miles and its a reletively inexpensive part and looks pretty easy to do. I'm guessing if you drive your car hard, it might be catching more of a beating but if you've done it, please post year and mileage. Any model and your recommendations welcome. Diagram is for my 3.6 V6. Thanks, B-
What Nuke said.

If the change interval is 60K the belt will go 60K easy. My info is in order to get an engine certified to sell in the USA (at least) the car maker has to run the engine in a representative model of car non-stop -- except for fuel and oil/filter services -- for 100,000 miles. No other services or repairs are permitted. So the belt can go 100K miles.

But I would not press my luck. I've always changed or had changed the serpentine belt on my cars at the factory scheduled time which I believe was always 60K miles. (In the case of a car that had a rubber timing belt I had it replaced at around 70K miles when the factory said it could go to 80K miles.)

However, you should check the serpentine belt occasionally for signs of problems. Maybe every fill up when you open the hood to check the oil?

(With my previous cars the belt was not accessible and I have to admit I never checked the belt in either car. And with my Hellcat I give the supercharger drive belt a quick glance but have not bothered to look at the other belt.)

In any case don't do as I do do as I say...

If either edge is sharp this is from the belt making contact with the side of an accessory drive pulley. It should not make contact. If it does there is likely an accessory drive with bearing play that allows the pulley to move out of position and the belt tracks wrong and in doing so rubs. It can and will fail prematurely if not caught in time. And the bad accessory could fail even sooner.

Another sign is if sections of the small Vs are missing. There can be cracks across the Vs but the Vs should all be intact.

When I bought my Boxster I took one look -- in a magazine picture -- of that serpentine belt and its routing and all the idler rollers and tensioner and bought spares thinking I'd need them. When I sold the car -- with 317K miles on it -- the original idler rollers and tensioner were just fine. The belt had been changed on schedule over the years sure and once when a failed water pump cause the belt to rub as I described above.

However, with another car at least one idler roller bearing (or tensioner roller bearing) went bad about as often as the 60K mile belt replacement interval rolled around.

If you change the belt yourself be sure you note the routing of the belt before you remove it. Draw diagram, take a pic. You want to be sure you install the new belt the right way. If there is a directional rotation requirement -- not likely but... -- be sure you install the belt so it rotates the right direction.

Do not force the belt over a pulley. There should be away to put a wrench on the tensioner and twist the wrench to cause the tensioner to "collapse" and release tension on the belt so it can be slipped off with ease. Installation is the reverse. ('course I may be wrong and there may be another technique Dodge has provided to get the old belt off and the new belt on. Maybe some kind of disassembly? IDK.)
 

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2014 Challenger SRT 8
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simple rule people, smooth side pully to smooth side of belt, grove side pully to grove side of belt. Install counter
clock wise starting with crank pully first

No need to know the routing if u do what I just said.

BTW, 100K miles is a SAFE change point, but seen OEM belts go north of 150K !!
 

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After the SC install on the 09 SRT, a new belt, tensioner and tools to get the job done are on-board if needed, along with a aftermarket spare tire. If that don't work, it looks like It's triple A time. Either way. I'm good to go....







HOT ROD ON...
 

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2014 Shaker Boosted 392 Stroker M6
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I changed mine when I super charged my Shaker. Now I always carry a spare belt and the tool to change it in my trunk.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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simple rule people, smooth side pully to smooth side of belt, grove side pully to grove side of belt. Install counter
clock wise starting with crank pully first

No need to know the routing if u do what I just said.

BTW, 100K miles is a SAFE change point, but seen OEM belts go north of 150K !!
Without knowing the audience I prefer to err on the side of caution and offer up a way that has less chance of being goofed up. If after a change or two someone wants to follow a more streamlined process that's up to him.

While I changed the belt on my Boxster several times it was always years apart and I could after the 1st time refer to the diagram I had drawn on the sheet metal panel that filled the hole between the cabin and the engine compartment. This ensured a correct installation time after time.

100K miles is a "safe" change point only if that is the change interval given by the automaker. Otherwise the owner is relying upon belt service life margin that may not be there. Based on style of driving and other factors belt life can be shortened. The factory takes this into account when it calls for say a 60K mile change interval. While some owners may manage 100K miles or more I would not expect every owner to have the same good luck.

Thus my advice is to at least change the belt on schedule. A bit sooner if one is so inclined but never later.
 

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2014 Challenger SRT 8
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1,205 Posts
whatever, 1000+ belt installed WITHOUT a diagram.

Also U CAN MEASURE serp belt to determine the Wear OF IT ALSO, called tools people.


Never had a serp belt break ever, oh wait I MEASURE it !! LOL Just sayin,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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