[brandy16]

I bought a Zeitronix wide band and it looks like I am going to have to take the drivers side mid pipe out to get the bung welded in. Has anyone done this? any tips on getting it out. Any problems getting the pipe back in with no exhaust leaks. Thanks

 

[fltinstructor]

I did it on my SRT8. It wasn't to hard once the bolts on the header were out. I was at my friend's muffler shop. He drilled out a hole with a hole saw and welded the bung. Took longer to let it cool off to put it back in than take it out. No leaks.

 

[EDDIE T]

its easy as pie put the car up on ramps and remove the lower shield its 4 10mm bolts, then get out sockets and extensions and get busy you will have it off in less than 30 minutes.

 

[brandy16]

Thanks. It looked like it would not be a problem. I have removed some of the older style exhaust and they are a pain. Hard to get the pipes apart after the clamps were removed.

 

[Flat Top]

Brandy is it SRT or RT ?
My RT I didnt drop no exhaust. A 3 beer install.
Use a step bit youll find the step in the bit that fits the bung,,,snug, Tap into pipe hole you drilled and mig around bung. On RT the Cats are also the 90deg bend in the exhaust. The bung location is drivers side at the 2 oclock position just above the cats factory weld by 1/2 inch.

 

[Speedy!]

One other thing for those doing this.

Go by a muffler shop and ask for a bad O2 sensor. Screw that sensor in your bung before welding. It will keep the bung from deforming under the heat. Once welded and cool, remove the O2 sensor and install your wideband.

 

[EDDIE T]

thats right speedy! thats an important part we forgot to mention

 

[TexasMoJo]

Speedy..good word man!! you just saved a few peeps a lot of Coin!!!

 

[fltinstructor]

Most new bungs come with a screw in plug to take care of that. Mine did, in the box with the Innovate LC1 like Speedy has installed.

 

[HemiSam]

X2...haven't seen a bung w/o the plug, but Speedy's point is valid. Put that puppy in there, and make sure the bung is in the top half of the pipe so you're not catching moisture in your O2 sensor...

HemiSam

 

[aarcuda]

why remove the pipe? I welded mine in with the exhaust installed. The muffler shop said they weld on exhausts in new cars all the time and never fried a puter . I did disconnect my battery but im not sure that matters.

hardest part was drilling the holes with the step bit. I toasted 2 of them drilling into the stainless steel borla pipes

 

[brandy16]

X2...haven't seen a bung w/o the plug, but Speedy's point is valid. Put that puppy in there, and make sure the bung is in the top half of the pipe so you're not catching moisture in your O2 sensor...

HemiSam

I got a plug with the bung. I found a picture of a bung install looked like it was near the top of the mid pipe above the cat. I called a good exhaust shop and they said they could do it with out removing the mid pipe. I looked and it seemed to be a tight fit trying to get a mig welder in to it. But I am not a welder. So when you say make sure its in the top half of the pipe I assume you mean near or just a little down from where the mid pipe is bolted on to the exhaust manifold. I attached the picture I was talking about. Thanks guys for all your help.

 

[Flat Top]

OP.Thats exactly where mine is, good. Make very sure the weld dont even have a pin hole, air will leak in causing a/f to not be accurate. Even to know its an exhaust (out), it pulsates to say and will suck air causing issues.

 

[Speedy!]

Yeah you want the sensor in the 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock position. If it gets lower than 3 o'clock moisture from condensation can get on it and ruin the sensor.

Also, like he says watch the pin holes. I had a shop do the one on my 4Runner with the pipe on the car and it leaked. I ended up having to remove the pipe myself, grind it down, and have it re-welded off the car.

 

[HemiSam]

That's where mine's located as well. Moisture is not your friend. Most folks don't appreciate how much water is generated for every gallon of fuel we burn. It's a lot...

HemiSam

 

[brandy16]

That's where mine's located as well. Moisture is not your friend. Most folks don't appreciate how much water is generated for every gallon of fuel we burn. It's a lot...

HemiSam

The picture I posted makes it look like the mid pipe is running parallel with the ground. Mine comes off the exhaust manifold and gos down at about a 45 degree angel. I can put the sensor in the three oclock position but it is not going to be pointing at the ground. I think it will be kind of going at a bit of an angel.

 

[HemiSam]

The higher the better, but I don't believe having it at say 3 o'clock will be a big issue for you. Worse that will happen is you'll get more oxidation on that unit than you would have otherwise, but I don't believe it will be material it sitting at 3 vs 2 o'clock. Below that, and it's a gravity issue.

HemiSam

 

[Flat Top]

If the bung is mounted above the cat its a vertical pipe on an RT. Straight up and down reletivey . Cat is part of the 90deg bend going under the car. It dont matter what o clock position with an RT if you above the cat., the pipe is vertical. 2 or 3 ocolock is the only place for clearence. If your in a horizonal pipe then it matters between 9 and 3 o clock yes for the moisture.
FT

 

[brandy16]

If the bung is mounted above the cat its a vertical pipe on an RT. Straight up and down reletivey . Cat is part of the 90deg bend going under the car. It dont matter what o clock position with an RT if you above the cat., the pipe is vertical. 2 or 3 ocolock is the only place for clearence. If your in a horizonal pipe then it matters between 9 and 3 o clock yes for the moisture.
FT

Thats what was confusing me. You can not mount the 02 sensor before the cat and still have it pointing down. I understand what you are saying and I agree. I can go and get the bung installed now. Thanks

 

[Speedy!]

Here's where mine is. The top hole is the stock O2 sensor, the botton with the bolt in it is the wide band bung.

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