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Hello everybody!
i have another issue with my 2013 Dodge Challenger R/T plus.. I have several old post with people with the same issues as me but no solutions i was wondering does anybody have the remedy for it now.. My windows keep going up and down on their own they don’t go all the way down they just go down a little and come back up and do it repeatedly until the battery is killed by it.. PLEASE HELP GUYS!
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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IIRC there was a recall for the door handles on 2011+ modes that related to this behavior, have you checked to see if yours has any open recalls or campaigns on it?
 
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I found no bulletins for the 2013 Challenger for this. Most often this issue is caused by a bad door latch assembly


A Guy
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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I had this problem a month ago, door latch assembly fixed it. I bet when you pull the door panel off you'll see there's some corrosion on the inside of the latch assembly.
 

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That was my very first problem just one week after purchasing my Green-with-Envy 2011 on Black Friday. My car falls just outside the recall dates. I found a place in Florida which took my money for the electrodes, but then they reimbursed me saying it was a dealer-only recall part and would not sell it to me. I took the car back to the dealer and they installed a new latch unit and split the cost with me 50-50. Still cost me $178 though. :( It's a very frustrating experience. Bite the bullet and have the dealer fix it, get a warranty, and be happy, albeit lighter in the wallet.
 

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That was my very first problem just one week after purchasing my Green-with-Envy 2011 on Black Friday. My car falls just outside the recall dates. I found a place in Florida which took my money for the electrodes, but then they reimbursed me saying it was a dealer-only recall part and would not sell it to me. I took the car back to the dealer and they installed a new latch unit and split the cost with me 50-50. Still cost me $178 though. :( It's a very frustrating experience. Bite the bullet and have the dealer fix it, get a warranty, and be happy, albeit lighter in the wallet.
They ripped you off, I paid $100 for the part. Took 10 minutes to replace with a screwdriver. My dealer tried doing the same and wanted $160 for the part
 

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Furious Fuchsia 2010 Challenger R/T Classic A5
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Had this happen several winters back on my 2010 - it's the window latch. Fix it sooner rather than later so you don't have to buy a new battery (constantly draining it will eventually kill it).
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Now that I’m on my 2nd Charger, I gotta say there are still many things I miss about driving a Challenger.

However, that auto-window up/down functionality, with the myriad of ways in which it can malfunction and leave you full of frustration and aggravation, is NOT one of those things I miss!

#SorryNotSorryNotSorryNotSorry#

(is that how the kids do the tweeps and hash browns thing??)
 
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They ripped you off, I paid $100 for the part. Took 10 minutes to replace with a screwdriver. My dealer tried doing the same and wanted $160 for the part
Maybe we are not talking about the same part. I received the whole latch unit with that included the window electronic module sensor switch that can't be bought separately anymore. Replacing the whole unit required the removal of the door panel, the attaching door lock levers and rods, etc. I could have done it myself, as I had already purchased a Dorman part off of Amazon for $110. But, as it was December and it was already cold and I thought it was too soon after purchasing for a major problem to crop up, I thought they should fix it. Two different dealers would not extend the latch recall from the March 15, 2011 end date to the June 29th build of my car. I was angry and said they had to cover at least half, and they agreed.

It took them much longer than 10 minutes and it would have taken me much longer, because the plastic door pins broke, they had new ones right there, and I would have had to wait to order some and have shipped to my rural home.

I returned the unused latch mechanism to Amazon.

Having that window go up and down, draining my battery, was a pain. I unhooked the battery after work, reattached it to go to work, unhooked it at work, reattached it to drive home, repeat. I used a string cord looped around the trunk's plastic safety pull handle and strung through the backseat to the front. The car was unlocked all day and night. Open the door, pull the string, pop the trunk, reattached the battery, start the car, redo the procedure at home and repeat the next morning and day. One week of that convinced me to have it fixed ASAP.

It's still outrageous that Chrysler lets this problem fester. In my opinion, EVERY door on EVERY Challenger should be recalled. It's just a matter of a cheap Chinese-made part, but they keep replacing it with the same defective part made by the same Chinese factory. A few more pennies spent to do something to prevent corrosion and eventual part failure is all that it would take.

THIS is why Chrysler failed and was first purchased by the Germans, then they dumped them, and now they're owned by the Italians, and even they are looking for French (Peugeot) help to bail them out. They style great looking cars, but then turn to the Chinese parts bin to assemble them, looking to save a few bucks here and there. Shortsightedness causing long-term reliability issues.

I've just spent the last six months doing all kinds of preventative maintenance on my 90,000+ mile driver's-quality car, (by myself, not at the dealer) and I hope to get three years and 30 thousand miles out of it. I pray that nothing major goes wrong, AKA "normal Challenger and Hemi and transmission problems" that I read about on this forum.

Had I done full research on the Challenger and found out about "the rust problem" beforehand, I would not have purchased a Challenger, no matter how much I love the car overall. Mine has the nasty characteristic rust and I had no idea beforehand how extensive it was. Then only to find out Chrysler knows about the problem, yet continued (continues?) the same design/manufacturing defect..it's beyond maddening. Some of us have to actually drive our cars out in the rain and snow and salt and can't keep them locked away in a temperature-controlled garage 24/7. They're CARS not toys.

Rant over.
 

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Maybe we are not talking about the same part. I received the whole latch unit with that included the window electronic module sensor switch that can't be bought separately anymore. Replacing the whole unit required the removal of the door panel, the attaching door lock levers and rods, etc. I could have done it myself, as I had already purchased a Dorman part off of Amazon for $110. But, as it was December and it was already cold and I thought it was too soon after purchasing for a major problem to crop up, I thought they should fix it. Two different dealers would not extend the latch recall from the March 15, 2011 end date to the June 29th build of my car. I was angry and said they had to cover at least half, and they agreed.

It took them much longer than 10 minutes and it would have taken me much longer, because the plastic door pins broke, they had new ones right there, and I would have had to wait to order some and have shipped to my rural home.

I returned the unused latch mechanism to Amazon.

Having that window go up and down, draining my battery, was a pain. I unhooked the battery after work, reattached it to go to work, unhooked it at work, reattached it to drive home, repeat. I used a string cord looped around the trunk's plastic safety pull handle and strung through the backseat to the front. The car was unlocked all day and night. Open the door, pull the string, pop the trunk, reattached the battery, start the car, redo the procedure at home and repeat the next morning and day. One week of that convinced me to have it fixed ASAP.

It's still outrageous that Chrysler lets this problem fester. In my opinion, EVERY door on EVERY Challenger should be recalled. It's just a matter of a cheap Chinese-made part, but they keep replacing it with the same defective part made by the same Chinese factory. A few more pennies spent to do something to prevent corrosion and eventual part failure is all that it would take.

THIS is why Chrysler failed and was first purchased by the Germans, then they dumped them, and now they're owned by the Italians, and even they are looking for French (Peugeot) help to bail them out. They style great looking cars, but then turn to the Chinese parts bin to assemble them, looking to save a few bucks here and there. Shortsightedness causing long-term reliability issues.

I've just spent the last six months doing all kinds of preventative maintenance on my 90,000+ mile driver's-quality car, (by myself, not at the dealer) and I hope to get three years and 30 thousand miles out of it. I pray that nothing major goes wrong, AKA "normal Challenger and Hemi and transmission problems" that I read about on this forum.

Had I done full research on the Challenger and found out about "the rust problem" beforehand, I would not have purchased a Challenger, no matter how much I love the car overall. Mine has the nasty characteristic rust and I had no idea beforehand how extensive it was. Then only to find out Chrysler knows about the problem, yet continued (continues?) the same design/manufacturing defect..it's beyond maddening. Some of us have to actually drive our cars out in the rain and snow and salt and can't keep them locked away in a temperature-controlled garage 24/7. They're CARS not toys.

Rant over.
Yea I got the same exact rust problem, and we are talking about the same part, I found it on either rockauto or one of the Mopar parts sites for cheaper than the dealer. The 2010s weren't even recalled even tho they have the same exact problem as 2011. The rust tho...I'm hoping someone files a lawsuit or something over it because I shouldn't have to pay $3500 to fix something that shouldnt have rusted in the first place. Until the rust bubbles popped up I kept my car spotless, now it feels like a waste of time because it's rusting anyway
 

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2011 RT. Last October, the windows started doing the smart window action, very consistently. It had been doing intermittently during the summer, but not enough to be a bother. About $400 at the dealer to replace the window mechanism.

January, the window would not ooperate. Fortunately, it was in the up position. You can drive with the window stuck up. It's not nice but if its nt raining, it isn't too bad. This the motor froze (not cold, but won't-move frozen). I live in the Los Angeles area. That time they replaced the window motor. Cost about $500.

Three weeks later, the window would not operate. Replaced the door control module., another $400 bill.

I'm tired of window problems. My wife's Acura drivers side rear window went snap when I mistakenly rolled it down and back up quickly. Hers cost about $550 to replace the regulator.

For me, it's been a tough time fro windows. Don't even get me started on MDS.
 

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2011 RT.

For me, it's been a tough time fro windows. Don't even get me started on MDS.
I watched a YooTube video that a guy made regarding changing out MDS solenoids. My Gawd he had to take a sledge hammer to them to get them out! I sure hope mine can last 30,000+ miles without failure. Gives me nightmares if I think about it.
 
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