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Me too here in Las Vegas area. Would be a shame to have to store my Chalenger for 6 months or however long it is. Why do you guys do this? So it isnt driven in the salt if you have snow?
Yup, salt is the enemy, but pales In comparison with the new liquid de-icer stuff that is being used up here. It gets on, and into everything. Really gets interesting when it seeps it’s way into your electrical connections, and rots them from the inside out. The DOT guys make sure our roads are well coated with the stuff, snowing or not, from November thru March or so.
My “Fun” cars come out of storage only after a few good rains wash all the bad stuff off the roads. Yea, it sucks not being able to enjoy our cars year round. But for me, it makes springtime that much sweeter! Kind of like driving your brand new car home from the dealership every year without the big loan payments!
 

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Nobody likes the car capsule?
Yep.I got two of em.The best thing you can ever do for your vehicle that can,t be kept in a climate controlled garage.Mice have never bothered the bubble(knock on wood).Your rotors will never ever even get light surface rust no matter how long you store your vehicle.I use the indoor model and use em in an unattached to the house unheated garage.
 

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"Change the oil and filter..." I change the oil and filter in the spring, before I bring the car out and drive it. I start it in the winter with the remote, which runs 15 minutes, to circulate the fluids. Since the moisture in the engine is going to get into the oil during storage while not driving it on the road and bring the engine up to heat saturation, I'd rather have the old oil in there and make sure to have fresh oil before the spring season.
 

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LT1, that's the exact opposite of what I do. I don't want any acids or other contaminants in there while mine sits for some five months. So it gets fresh, clean oil before the hibernation.

I also would do almost anything in my power not to start the engine during its hibernation, as cold starts are always hard on them, and not getting the oil up to temp creates condensation in there.
Since the oiling system is a relatively sealed setup, there should be no moisture in the engine...unless you park the car in a seasonal stream or something. Or keep cold starting it.
 

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"Change the oil and filter..." I change the oil and filter in the spring, before I bring the car out and drive it. I start it in the winter with the remote, which runs 15 minutes, to circulate the fluids. Since the moisture in the engine is going to get into the oil during storage while not driving it on the road and bring the engine up to heat saturation, I'd rather have the old oil in there and make sure to have fresh oil before the spring season.
And you're doing it all wrong. Oil needs to be changed BEFORE storage, not after.
 

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I've seen this debate for years, and I don't do winter ;) There are arguments on both sides, both on when to change it, and starting it during hibernation. My take on it was change it then park it and DON'T start it during hibernation. Battery tender, prime it when taking it out of hibernation by rotating it without starting, then start.

The reasons stated are contaminants in oil/acids, fuel, moisture...and not starting, even if you get it up to temperature as running it is what causes the previous contaminants?

I doubt you'll find any scientific information either way, and could the issues stated have changed with modern oil formulations?

A Guy
 

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Well, technically we should change the oil, park it, and then change the oil again...or the warranty is toast.
But that's another can of worms.

And I seriously doubt that any scientific information would back up that cold starting an engine is good, or that not getting the oil up to temp is good.

But maybe as long as we don't drain the oil cooler and rev the engine when cold, two wrongs could make a right.
 
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