Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The only instruction manuals available are for 2010 and older R/Ts and 2011 and newer SRT8s. I've got a 2012 R/T so I'm going in a little blind. The R/T instructions don't have you remove the front clip. Will I be able to get away with that on a 2012? Also some of the mounting locations are different. I plan on reusing my Mopar strut brace so I'll be using the SRT oil separator location to leave the firewall free. So far I've got the intake off and hard lines from the water pump. I'm a little afraid to follow any of the hose cutting instructions. Finally, is anyone running a catch can with their Magnuson? If so where did you mount it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Well I'm basically done now and I'll share some info with you guys that might help someone in the future who is installing on a 2011-14 R/T

-You will want to look at both the 2010 and 2011 SRT instructions. The older 2010 instructions make the most sense but there are a few good tips from the SRT manual you may want to follow.
-I'm at almost 2 weeks since I emailed my stock tune to API, was told I should have it tomorrow so send your stock file in as soon as you get your Trinity
-Don't cut anything until you mock it up, I have extra hose and wires because the instructions made unnecessary cuts. Don't pay attention to the length they tell you to remove off a hose, measure it yourself.
-Remove the front clip of the car for this install. Get a long handled flex head wrench to take out the nuts near the headlights behind the fender, trying to do it with out one will probably be futile.
-You will need a friend and jack to remove the fan by unbolting the 4 radiator support bolts from the bottom of the car and dropping the fan once you have enough clearance. The newer fan motor and water pump don't leave enough clearance to pull it out from up top. I used a jack and a piece of wood to hold the radiator assembly from falling down while we were pinning the crank.
-There's a 99% chance you won't get a correct length lower bracket for your heat exchanger. Go to Lowe's and buy a longer carriage bolt and sleeve. I think it was a 2" bolt that i used, worked perfect.
-be very careful when dropping the intercooler on as the IAT sensor is on the bottom (makes zero sense)
-If you buy an API Competition fuel pump the wiring instructions for the fuel pump are for an older model so expect no help from them as the terminals are completely different. I made a guess based on an online photo so I'm hoping it works!
-Removing the cowl cover is a pain but reinstalling it is really quick. If you want to use the included separator I would mount it there so you can run a strut bar. I am running the included separator in line to my UPR catch can. Also, you have to flip the wiper blades up to remove them (they will just pop off)
-You will need to buy a 90° 1/2 to 1/2 inch fitting for the PCV Valve To intake Manifold hose (not in the kit). It is a huge pain in the ass to reinstall the hose after cutting the flared end back, soap helps.
-Must have tools the manual doesn't really highlight are: hose cutters, hose clamp pliers, hose removal tool, long handled flex head wrench, several different clip removers, bleeder for water pump,OTC 6599 Universal Fuel Sender Lock Tool

Overall the install wasn't too bad of a job. You're definitely going to need a friend to help at certain points in the install. I probably could have saved 2-3 hours if the manual had clear and correct instructions and they provided the right tool list vs. having to go back and forth to the store multiple times. Hopefully this will save someone time in the future
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
8lbs, comes stock with a 3.2. I won't mess with the boost until I upgrade the internals which might never happen. I'll probably eventually do shorties or long-tubes with high-flow cats and a CAI but not until I can get it dyno tuned. This car is a compromise car, I really want something that I can still take on long family trips.
 

·
Registered
2015 SRT
Joined
·
178 Posts
This is how I wired mine, I found a diagram from walbro direct.


Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It fired right up so the fuel pump was wired correctly. After about 5 minutes I walked inside to grab a pop and when I came back the car had pissed about a gallon of coolant all over my garage floor when the thermostat opened. I bled all the air out via the water pump and refilled it. I have no idea where the coolant came from because when it happened it was gushing down on the floor and it hasn't leaked since.

The car really pulls at 4k+ but I think my tune from API is too conservative. The car feels slower down low than with my 93 OCT tune. I'm going to do some data logging and see if I notice anything off.

Anyone think could I have blown my head gasket at idle? I guess I can get a kit to test but I'm a bit baffled of where the coolant came from which has me somewhat worried. I took it for a test drive and all my temps were normal, no leaks, no smoke.
 

·
Registered
2015 SRT
Joined
·
178 Posts
Likely an air bubble in the cooling system that needed to be purged. I used a vacuum fill device on mine and no issue.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Likely an air bubble in the cooling system that needed to be purged. I used a vacuum fill device on mine and no issue.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
Yeah I talked to Luke at SW, he said the same thing. Makes sense, I was just being paranoid.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,094 Posts
It's easy to become paranoid when doing something to these new hot rods. The computer still scares the hell out of me. Old days: screwdriver, pliers, socket wrench, timing light good to go. O' and a flashlight. But then again the old muscle didn't do everything except wipe you butt for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Came home to a nice surprise. The Trinity killed my battery. Hopefully I can bring it back.
 

·
Registered
2015 SRT
Joined
·
178 Posts
Came home to a nice surprise. The Trinity killed my battery. Hopefully I can bring it back.
I had the exact same thing happen to me last week. Won't make that mistake again. Just put a trickle charger overnight and it should be fine.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Dodge Challenger
Joined
·
257 Posts
Not sure if you sorted out your catch cans but this is how I have them set up.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Battery came back, so I'm pretty happy about that. I installed a Barton Friday and I should have bought one years ago. I drove it about 160 miles yesterday and everything worked fine. Im still disapointed witn the tune from Arrington but maybe they can send me a revision. On another note, I get so much wheel spin now that my best 0-60 increased by about 1.3 seconds.

I did notice one issue that I'm not sure is a problem or normal for a supercharged engine. Sometimes if I'm accelerating at part throttle and I don't open the throttle more it feels like it goes out of boost. Does anyone have any gauges suggestions I should data log to identify issues? I guess I could log the kpa and throttle position and see if that's happening
 

·
Registered
2015 SRT
Joined
·
178 Posts
I have been working with Arrington on my tune, basically they are looking for logs of WOT and where ever you have an issue. I have a few part throttle quirks on my whipple that are a function of having a vacuum controlled bypass. Adding an orifice fitting can help the quirks but the boost doesn't hit as hard and fast at WOT.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2014
Joined
·
126 Posts
Sometimes if I'm accelerating at part throttle and I don't open the throttle more it feels like it goes out of boost.
That's what happens with partial throttle boost. The boost comes on whenever the engine is starved for air (vacuum actuated).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Couple things:

I put in 3 gallons of 93 OCT and I am getting knock retard at WOT, up to 7 degrees. After noticing that I stopped at another station and put in 3 gallons of 110 OCT and it looks like it fell by 1 degree. Is there anyway I can fix this or is the engine going to continue to pull timing because I'm in a 6 speed?

I keep nailing the rev limiter because the new tune lowered it to 5700. I was used to shifting around 6100, is that going to be safe with boost if I raise it or do I need to upgrade springs?

On another note, the drivers side Hemi tick on my car is definitely more noticeable now, I'm assuming it's because because I've got no engine covers on it. Anyone using half covers? Wondering if I should pick some up.
 

·
Registered
2019 Dodge Challenger 1320, high octane red, Race Stars and Mickey Thompson et rs, hurst shifter.
Joined
·
527 Posts
It fired right up so the fuel pump was wired correctly. After about 5 minutes I walked inside to grab a pop and when I came back the car had pissed about a gallon of coolant all over my garage floor when the thermostat opened. I bled all the air out via the water pump and refilled it. I have no idea where the coolant came from because when it happened it was gushing down on the floor and it hasn't leaked since.

The car really pulls at 4k+ but I think my tune from API is too conservative. The car feels slower down low than with my 93 OCT tune. I'm going to do some data logging and see if I notice anything off.

Anyone think could I have blown my head gasket at idle? I guess I can get a kit to test but I'm a bit baffled of where the coolant came from which has me somewhat worried. I took it for a test drive and all my temps were normal, no leaks, no smoke.
take out your bypass restrictor if you want instant low end boost and throttle response
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top