Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2012 3.6L SST - basically the SXT Plus with performance brakes and suspension (which i believe equates to R/T parts).

So my brakes have been squealing like a pig for close to a year now. Always had squeal since i put the brakes and pads in 2 years ago, but much more pronounced lately. And i finally had weather warm enough to pull the wheels off and get my head in there.

The rears were a bit rusty but more or less in good shape. Rotors seemed fine and pads looked like they'd barely been used... maybe 1/8" or 1/4" of wear. So lots of pad left. Which i found strange. Ive put atleast 60,000kms on these and they havent worn out at all? Is this normal?

So i get to the fronts. Which are the dual piston R/T calipers/Pads/Rotors and I see that the rotor has been worn down where the pad makes contact about 1/8" deep but there is a raised plateau near the center of the rotor and the outer lip is raised as well. See pictures for reference.

I look at the pads and also notice that there is matching wear to the rotor. (again refer to pictures).

Now in the pictures it kind of looks like a little groove, but its not a groove, its like a plateau.

Both driver and passenger side wear is exactly the same.

Now the pads (EBC yellow) are the right size, and the rotors (EBC Sport) were the same size as the stockers that i had taken off. But i have never seen something like this. Is this normal?

Would you assume that this is the cause of all the squeal? And would you suggest that i replace the pads and rotors to try and alleviate the squeal and leave the rears? Or do all 4.

In the interim i put some brake lube on the backs of all the pads, will see how long that lasts. All pads were in decent shape, the pad clips were a tad stiff and rusty but i think they were okay.

Input appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,668 Posts
The race oriented pads are carbon metallic and they more often than not squeal and use up brake rotors at a faster rate.Plus they dust.

Personally I don't use carbon metallic for the street because of the things mentioned above through experiance.
I now always use carbon ceramic.The Power stop Z23 is the best pads I have ever used.No squeal,no dust,stop much better than OEM,and they were the only ones eliminating the constant rattle in my Charger with three different brands.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I was considering the power stop Z26 to replace these. Would you recommend the z23 over the z26?

And these pads/rotors are basically garbage now right?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,668 Posts
Thanks. I was considering the power stop Z26 to replace these. Would you recommend the z23 over the z26?

And these pads/rotors are basically garbage now right?

Thanks.
Their both made of the same composite.I think the only difference is the backing plate.The z23 is rubberized and the z26 has a stainless backing plate to resist heat.I haven't tried the z26 but the rubberized would be less prone to noise.I guess it comes down to how much hard braking you do.

Your pads look OK but then your back where you started.Rotors I would say should also be changed.There's a lot of uneven wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,668 Posts
They're not garbage. You have uneven brake pad material. Clean the rotors good and bed in the brakes. Should be good as new.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Or you could do this.^^^There's plenty of life yet.Their mated surfaces.But the squeal probably will return.
I threw a nearly new set of Auto Zone golds in the trash because of noise.I hate brake noise!

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ill try bedding them in the hopes that it works. Otherwise ill grab a set of the z23's.

Any suggestions on rotors? i dont track. Cars not driven very hard. Its almost all city driving and only a few days a week. I see a lot of the z23's packaged with the drilled and slotted powerstop rotors, but i feel like that might be overkill for me. Might be better just getting new pads and solid rotors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,456 Posts
Arvin, it's not about getting new pads and rotors. That's like putting on a bandage. The same will happen again. You need to educate yourself about how this stuff works and how to avoid letting it to get to this point. These are common issues. Unfortunately most people have no clue why it happens, how to avoid it, and how to fix it. This was me over 15 years ago.
Anytime you get a new, used, and/or do a brake job you need to bed in the brakes properly. Plus you need to know how to brake properly to avoid hot spots, glazed rotors, uneven brake pad transfer onto the rotors which most people call it "warped" rotors and etc. For example, if you brake like a granny you will most likely over time get glazed rotors which reduces your braking bite. Save your money, the stock rotors are good. Just take them off, clean them, put them back properly, torque the wheels to spec, bed your brakes properly, and you'll be good to go.
For proper bedding you'll need an empty stretch of road. At least 5 miles. Brake hard from 60 to 20 about 8-9 times. You'll need to get the brakes hot enough to have that even brake pad material transferred onto your rotors. After the last 8th or 9th time, don't touch the brake pedal for at least 3-5 minutes. Most people do the improper bedding by braking hard a few times and think that's it. No. You'll need to smell those brakes and they will feel mushy. This is how I clean my rotors. Typically the rotors last a good 50k+ miles depending on your driving.
ImageUploadedByAG Free1497571878.720751.jpg
ImageUploadedByAG Free1497571908.222063.jpg
ImageUploadedByAG Free1497571924.887485.jpg
ImageUploadedByAG Free1497571940.124997.jpg
ImageUploadedByAG Free1497571956.224959.jpg
https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/top-10/top-10-ways-to-make-your-brakes-last-longer.html
Lots of great info online. Take an hour and just read. It'll save you ton of money for the rest of your life.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Your last 2 pics are signs of a sticking caliper or pistons. Had the same thing on my Doge Ram 2500.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Arvin, it's not about getting new pads and rotors. That's like putting on a bandage. The same will happen again. You need to educate yourself about how this stuff works and how to avoid letting it to get to this point. These are common issues. Unfortunately most people have no clue why it happens, how to avoid it, and how to fix it. This was me over 15 years ago.
Anytime you get a new, used, and/or do a brake job you need to bed in the brakes properly. Plus you need to know how to brake properly to avoid hot spots, glazed rotors, uneven brake pad transfer onto the rotors which most people call it "warped" rotors and etc. For example, if you brake like a granny you will most likely over time get glazed rotors which reduces your braking bite. Save your money, the stock rotors are good. Just take them off, clean them, put them back properly, torque the wheels to spec, bed your brakes properly, and you'll be good to go.
For proper bedding you'll need an empty stretch of road. At least 5 miles. Brake hard from 60 to 20 about 8-9 times. You'll need to get the brakes hot enough to have that even brake pad material transferred onto your rotors. After the last 8th or 9th time, don't touch the brake pedal for at least 3-5 minutes. Most people do the improper bedding by braking hard a few times and think that's it. No. You'll need to smell those brakes and they will feel mushy. This is how I clean my rotors. Typically the rotors last a good 50k+ miles depending on your driving.
View attachment 817762
View attachment 817770
View attachment 817778
View attachment 817786
View attachment 817794
https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/top-10/top-10-ways-to-make-your-brakes-last-longer.html
Lots of great info online. Take an hour and just read. It'll save you ton of money for the rest of your life.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Totally understand what you mean. I did bed them properly when i installed them. Unfortunately I didnt have the time or the extra cash over the last year to delve into this further, was busy planning a huge wedding. So when i pulled them off this week, it was definitely a WTF moment. lol. But this isnt an issue of how i brake, and its not an issue of not having bite. The car stops fine. Its just noisy as hell sometimes. Im trying to figure out why the rotor cut an arc into the pads, and why that is on both driver and passenger sides equally.

Im going to try to bed them in again as you suggested, but i think theres more to this than just braking style.



Your last 2 pics are signs of a sticking caliper or pistons. Had the same thing on my Doge Ram 2500.
I was thinking that, but the car doesnt pull, or give indication that the caliper would be stuck. No excessive heat from what i can tell, and no wobbling/vibrating/pulsing upon brake application.

And with it being a dual piston, wouldnt the wear be uneven from one side of the pad to the other?

And why would both passenger and driver side have the exact same wear pattern? I doubt both calipers would be shot at the exact same time in the exact same manner. Right? Thats the part thats throwing me off.


Thanks
Arvin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
2012 3.6L SST - basically the SXT Plus with performance brakes and suspension (which i believe equates to R/T parts).

So my brakes have been squealing like a pig for close to a year now. Always had squeal since i put the brakes and pads in 2 years ago, but much more pronounced lately. And i finally had weather warm enough to pull the wheels off and get my head in there.

The rears were a bit rusty but more or less in good shape. Rotors seemed fine and pads looked like they'd barely been used... maybe 1/8" or 1/4" of wear. So lots of pad left. Which i found strange. Ive put atleast 60,000kms on these and they havent worn out at all? Is this normal?

So i get to the fronts. Which are the dual piston R/T calipers/Pads/Rotors and I see that the rotor has been worn down where the pad makes contact about 1/8" deep but there is a raised plateau near the center of the rotor and the outer lip is raised as well. See pictures for reference.

I look at the pads and also notice that there is matching wear to the rotor. (again refer to pictures).

Now in the pictures it kind of looks like a little groove, but its not a groove, its like a plateau.

Both driver and passenger side wear is exactly the same.

Now the pads (EBC yellow) are the right size, and the rotors (EBC Sport) were the same size as the stockers that i had taken off. But i have never seen something like this. Is this normal?

Would you assume that this is the cause of all the squeal? And would you suggest that i replace the pads and rotors to try and alleviate the squeal and leave the rears? Or do all 4.

In the interim i put some brake lube on the backs of all the pads, will see how long that lasts. All pads were in decent shape, the pad clips were a tad stiff and rusty but i think they were okay.

Input appreciated.

Thanks in advance

By your pictures to me you have the wrong pad(part number). Alot of the rotor is not even touched nearest the middle of the rotor and is evident by the pad wear.

That what I see.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top