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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
What you need to understand what this does is either plug in computer speakers or maybe a good set of headphones. The Corvette vid I posted in my first post captures what this does. Watching the vette vid you should notice a big difference in deepness. I know the speakers on my laptop didn't show it but plug in speakers do. They have way more base. The vid I took doesn't really show it because my camera didn't pick up the base, only the sharp sounds.

I am happy with it. I would do it again in a second. With the tranny in sport mode, sounds really good on decel or high rpms of that particular gear slowly cruising along. Not quite a burble but real close. Maybe you could call it a deep fluffy burble. I have played around with the guys at work watching. I asked them to tell me specifically if it sounded good or not. Honest answers. Everyone said it sounded really good. After driving it now for a while without any drone, I am also certain the 5/8s I went is not the end game. 3/4s works for vettes and I'm willing to bet it works here just fine as well.

I'll try to put numbers to it. 0 drone. 20% louder. 40% deeper. If you are not willing to get a full new exhaust system or are not willing to risk drone by replacing the resonators, this is one of three options:

Option one: remove mid mufflers and straight pipe. Drawback: raspiness under throttle. Listen to the youtube vids with good speakers to see if this is your bag or not. $100-$150
Option two: replace mid mufflers with smaller mufflers. Drawback: Only a slight difference in sound. Does not quite get you to where you want to be. $250-$300
Option three: Drill and plug the resonators. Drawback: Soft edged sound. Not the hard sound some people may be looking for unless you are under heavy throttle. This is a ping pong paddle hitting a cushion. It is not a ping pong paddle hitting a leather couch. $20
 

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I did a different version of this half ass cheapskate mod... tools needed 13 mil socket extension, ratchet.
1Remove your tips.
2 oxygen/acetylene torch insert in rear of muffler. cut the pipe past the weld inside the resonator using torch (doesn't have to look pretty this is just a half ass sound mod) only cut 3/4 around the pipe cut deep around make some big holes if you feel the need. just leave the bottom section intact. no exterior button needed and cant tell by the exterior that this was done.

allow time to cool and reinstall your tips... Bam instant thrush turbo muffler sound. I have not noticed any interior resonance noises form mds activation. total time for this is less than 10 minutes cooling time well that takes a few minutes. experiment cut a small hole start it up see if you like then cut bigger holes. good luck...
 

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It was pretty good, I enjoyed it, but I also prefer a bit louder. Ended up going with Flowmaster Super 10s. :)
 

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I know I'm resurrecting an old thread.. Drex, would you happen to have your original pictures still? It looks like photobucket screwed us, and I'm really interested in your mod.. The only thing I can find anywhere else is a guy that drills into the chamber @ the back of the car inline with where the incoming pipe dumps into this chamber.. I'm guessing that your mod is the better one since you are re-introducing some of the frequency's trapped in that chamber back to the stream out.. If you still have your pictures, I'll pm you with a google drive location or something to share them with me.

Thanks,
Ed




I came across a resonator mod they've been doing on Corvettes for the past 10 years. Drilling into brand new C6 and C7 vettes. I recently reviewed some glasspacks I put on and after doing this, putting those mufflers on was a waste of money.

No rasp, no drone, deep rumbling sound, even at idle on my 2016 A8 RT Shaker, in a half hour, and almost for free. This is magic. I'll post links to the Corvette thread and to a Corvette vid below. The pictures are mine. The Corvette resonators are somewhat the same as those on the RT's with a front and rear chamber.

It is so simple. You just drill a hole into the rear chamber of the resonator at a 45% angle and then through both sides of the tail pipe as it passes through the rear chamber, then you cap the hole you initially drilled through the outside case of the resonator. What this does is allow a percentage of direct sound in the rear chamber to go straight out your tail pipe.

The Corvette guys found that a 3/4" hole was where they started to see the slightest bit of drone. I myself have stopped at a 1/2" hole because it already sounds good but I have the plugs for a 5/8's hole if I decide to go further later on. The plugs can be bought at any auto parts store. They are called button plugs. You want the nickel plated ones, not plastic (duh). Cost $2 for a pair. I sealed them on with some RTV sealant. I had grey in my garage which is good for 625 degrees and is muffler grey, lol

Just a note that I jacked the back of the car up a few inches to do this and drilled a smaller hole before the 1/2" bit. I eyeballed the angle by looking down the tailpipe. Like I said, I'll probably move up to a 5/8's hole now that I know a 1/2" works good. I intially went with 3/8's holes and plugs before moving up to 1/2.


This is a before/after vid from a Corvette. This takes our RT from zero idle sound all the way to close to this. (You need good speakers to get a full understanding what it does.)


Finally, here is a Corvette thread on this that has been running for 10 years. When they started, it was kind of archaic but they have refined it to what I just showed you. It is hours of reading so I suggest you start on page 15-20 if it interests you because that is the point where they figure out to use the button plugs
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Man, I haven't been on this forum in a long, long time. I got a PM which sent me an e-mail, which brought me here. So I guess you guys are interested? I guess I should update. First I should tell you it seems you can hack up that inside pipe in the rear-most chamber all you want and not get drone. What you do to that inside pipe is just a volume switch. I'll explain.

In my first year, I did this mod and reported here. Towards the end of that year, I decided to try bigger. I used my same drill bit and although I kept it the same diameter through the casing, inside I started angling the bit and sawing, rounding out the inside holes through the pipe. I have mentioned you can see what you do by shining a flashlight down your tail pipe. I know I hogged my first holes to over an inch in diameter.

Then this year, my 2nd year of ownership, I decided I wanted even more. How could I do that? A second hole, from the bottom, back across through the pipe at a slight angle the opposite way of the first hole. It kept me happy all year and I have no thoughts of doing anything else. It's more than loud enough and sounds good. The cost of this mod as it stands now, $4 for button plugs and $10 for grey RTV sealant. The vette guys knew what they were doing.

All you end up with is two little plugs in your resonator that nobody would even notice as out of the ordinary.

So I guess I'll go back though this thread and see what pics are missing that you guys need
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
What a ####show. Photobucket hijacked all my pics. Found them all, re-sized, re-hosted. I'm not reading this whole thread again. Start from scratch.

Cut away. Exhaust dumps into rear chamber, is bounced into front chamber pipe which carries it through the rear chamber and out. The goal is to allow some of that exhaust originally dumped into the rear chamber to just exit through the holes you drill in the pipe as it comes back out through the rear chamber without a trip through the front.

Now, pay attention! Look at the pic of the hole I drilled. It is up against what we'll call a rib of the casing. A dented out protrusion. You can see a couple of them. Drill your hole to the rear side of that rear protrusion. Drilling into that protrusion, or towards the front of that will drill into either the dividing wall of the chambers or into the front chamber. Just stay in the area in my picture and you will be fine.

As a last note, that button cap stands out in my pic because it is new. It will turn the same color as the casing quickly. Hope I helped!

Edit: Tip: Start with a pilot hole. Say 3/16 or something to get you through the casing and the first side of the pipe anyway. Then you can find the next size up long enough to carry you through the second side of the pipe. Then you can finish off with the drill size that matches whatever plug you chose. I'm guessing most would go with 1/2 inch as it's usually the biggest size in a drill bit set. Really, once you have looked at my pics and compared to your car so that you understand what you will be doing, you will be packing your tools up in under 45 minutes and you always have the option of going bigger later down the road if you so desire. That takes even less time.











 

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You-da-man, Drex.

I sent the PM because i saw the value in what you started. There has always been a lot of interest in exhaust mods on this forum. But we all know how expensive they can be. To get similar results for pennies is well, priceless.

I also belong to the fjrforum. They did a similar mod called the "trooper mod," named after the fella who came up with it. It was a huge hit. Only made sense to me that what you did would be huge as well, but unfortunately Photobucket killed it.

Thank you for taking the time to fix this.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I realized after I should add something else.

A 1/2" hole through the pipes is what you need to move up the "make a difference from where I am" scale. Everybody has a different idea of what they want. I'll add the best way to step up a level now that I've gone through it. My advice is if you're buying those 1/2" button plugs to do this, buy 4 of them in case you want a bit more.

Level 1: 1/2" hole through the pipes, just as I described.

Not quite enough? You have 2 more plugs, run a second hole opposite of the first ones. (think of it like drawing an X with your drill bit)

Level 3 would be going and picking up 5/8's plugs and a 5/8 drill bit.

I currently have a 5/8 hole running one way (hogged out inside to about 1") and a 1/2" hole running the other way. That makes it such that a cold start in the morning where it idles fast probably pisses my neighbor off a little. Once it drops to normal idle, it's fine.
I work with 50 guys and if this sounded like ass, I would hear about it. It's sounds good.
 

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I realized after I should add something else.

A 1/2" hole through the pipes is what you need to move up the "make a difference from where I am" scale. Everybody has a different idea of what they want. I'll add the best way to step up a level now that I've gone through it. My advice is if you're buying those 1/2" button plugs to do this, buy 4 of them in case you want a bit more.

Level 1: 1/2" hole through the pipes, just as I described.

Not quite enough? You have 2 more plugs, run a second hole opposite of the first ones. (think of it like drawing an X with your drill bit)

Level 3 would be going and picking up 5/8's plugs and a 5/8 drill bit.

I currently have a 5/8 hole running one way (hogged out inside to about 1") and a 1/2" hole running the other way. That makes it such that a cold start in the morning where it idles fast probably pisses my neighbor off a little. Once it drops to normal idle, it's fine.
I work with 50 guys and if this sounded like ass, I would hear about it. It's sounds good.
Can you post a video of how it sounds now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Let's be very clear. Small speakers do NOT represent the sound of exhaust. This mod gives a very deep exhaust note. Phones do not play deep sounds. Laptop speakers do not play deep sounds. Even when I plugged in a little speaker bar with approx 1" cones, it did not sound anything like real life.
ONLY when I plugged in speakers that are about 3" x 5" with 1 1/2" cones did I get what it actually sounded like. As for volume, I suggest you use the background noise before the car starts to dial your volume in for an approximation

https://youtu.be/myQk_eTwF20
 

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Thanks Drex for the pictures, this is what we needed. Working on it tonight.
 

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Sorry to resurrect this thread but... Does anyone have a working video of this modification? Looking to try it out.
 

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I noticed that Drex's vid is dead as well. Sad to see this. However, consider the advice that he gave. Start off with a small enough hole that you'll barely be able to tell the difference. You can increase the sound gradually until it reaches the level ya like. Seems like a low price, low risk, easy-peasy mod to try out. I did the same thing on my FJR Yamaha. I stopped way short of opening things up as much as others had done because I reached a level that worked for me. This is the same kind of mod. Maybe start with just a 3/16 hole, doing "before and after" comparison. Let us know what ya find out.
 

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