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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
BEFORE YOU START YES I KNOW there's a lots of threads, posts, videos, and sites on this,BUT they don't cover what I want, I looked everywhere!
After collecting Hopefully a mass amount of info, I want to make a ONE STOP for NOOBS like myself, to truly start from. *will give credit of course to the really good threads and posts I see*

TOOLS: Griot's Garage 6" Polisher(W/ LC 5in plate), Lake Country Pads 5 1/2" 6xOrange(compounding) 1xyellow (incase I need stronger than orange for a section) , 4xWhite(polishing), 1xBlue(waxing), and for the glazing idk

Product: Meguiar's M105 Compound, Meguiar's M205 Polish, Meguiar's M7 Glaze, Liquid Glass (for the wax best reviews ive ever seen in any wax, and YES I KNOW its not technically a wax *TOO some* but to me yes)

So lets start, I made this even with the thousands of shit on this topic already because I want certain details I could not find or could not find repeatedly as a verification.

1. Compounding - imma start off with my experience, so original had a yellow Meg's pad, a $30 black&decker orbital and Meg's Ultimate Compound. I used 3/4 of the bottle on my ONE CAR ( that has to be wrong right ??) btw its a 2015 Challenger Scat Pack. it had a shit ton of swirls, I spent an hour on the hood and that results are these
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=819562&stc=1&d=1498024748
my wife took the pick I'm underway (I'm in the US Navy) posting this on my ship.

ANYWAYS, ik the polisher I had wasn't good but hot damn 1 whole hour to 1:30 just on the hood & that's my results!! rest of the car isn't too bad .

SO LONG STORY SHORT

1. COMPOUNDING what's your technique/ recommendations to the following

A) How much you use I seen vids where its 3 dime sizes or 5 dime sizes or long ass globs WHICH IS IT???

B) I know you overlap 50% but how many FULL laps do you do or should be able to get to or "do you stop and wipe" or "add more compound" when its clear or hazy?

C) how big should my sections be I hear 1foot by 1foot to 2foot by 2 foot or bigger? to me the first two seem like that's really small and will take years idk lol.

D) DIRECTIONS single directions or double directions and Speed for my GG6 *starting & Mid*

E) Should I wipe after every application or keep wet and about how many times for wet option ( and when would I re-wet when its clear or hazy on the paint)

F) I feel I should be using a lot less than 3/4 of 16 oz bottle of compound on ONE CAR .. am I right??

THANK YOU FOR KEEPING UP YOU SO FAR!! promise the rest wont be so complicated, but I feel compounding is the most technical and serious part of detailing because of cutting

NEXT
2. POLISHING - truth time ... ugh okay I DIDNT POLISH in the that pic above, I ran out of time and went straight to waxing! *phew* glad that's off my chest. BUT I've seen in videos of ppl getting rid of their swirls with just compound so wtf happened with me!?

A) QUICK OPTION is this treated the exact same as compounding as the above answers?

B) If not Tell me amount, directions, speed, how many FULL laps, amount of times to re-wet or is there NO RE-WET just wipe, section sizes?


See that was easy!


NEXT
3. GLAZE - from what I seen looks easy still want you technique guys, never done this, so help me out so I can help others with the soon to be made thread!


A) amount looks like enough to make a thin coat

B) time I saw was 15 minutes left on the paint

C) any tips or left out info please do tell??

NEXT
4. WAX - okay my experience easy enough but I went thru 3/4 of one can Meg's ultimate past wax I feel like I used way too much am I right????

A) how much like a very thin coat that you can barely see, or thin coat you can see easily or paste that Sh*t on there like I did

B)so I know for regular wax you leave on there for about 5 minutes slide your finger up and if the path is clear its time to wipe, RIGHT? ... BUT any Liquid Glass users here that can tell me how to use it correctly??

C) Liquid glass Questions: same as "WAX a)how much" and CURE TIME I've read that 30 minutes in the sun to 3 hours in the sun and I've read wipe off within 30 minutes then put car in sun for 3 hours is that what it means by curing?

that's it guys IM FINISHED sorry for the long story but I want a single thread that covers damn near all of the questions I got and I know others have

SO THANK YOU for reading and especially those that comment!!!! also please tell me if made some spelling errors or anything
 

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I did 2x2 areas, I would do what ever you feel comfortable doing and a small enough area so the compound, polish, wax etc. does not dry out. I do 4-5 passes for each over lapping and changing direction each time. Using too much will not hurt anything just waste material. I used about a 1/4 of 16 ounces on my 68 Charger. Car does have a vinyl top. Also you almost have to use polish as compound leave small fine swirl marks. To do my Charger it took at least 8 hours, compound, polish, glaze then wax and sealer. Took about 5 hours for my Challenger with no compound. For compound and polish, I do the section and then wipe off moving around the car. for the steps after that I just do the whole car then wipe off. I overlap about half the width of the polishing pad. As for the paste wax I would say you used too much, but it won't hurt anything. The more you do it the better you will get. The guys in the videos have done quite a few cars. Also I always use the pad prep spray form chemical guys before doing anything, helps to moisten pad and seems to make pads last longer and not absorb as much of what you are using. My guess is most of your compound etc was sucked up in your pad, that is why you used so much. Also recommend chemical guys pad cleaner just in case your pad gets a heavy build up on it.
 

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Furious Fuchsia 2010 Challenger R/T Classic A5
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First, AutoGeek is a fantastic forum to learn the basics up to advanced. DetailingWorld, a UK forum, is also very insightful. Each manufacturer tends to have their own enthusiast forum as well. For videos, look to Larry of AmmoNYC and the Junkman.

Second, in the pic you linked it looks good below the beltline but unacceptable (to me) above and on the hood. A test spot would've shown you if your pad/compound-polish combo was adequate for the results you desired. If not you need to up one or both to get the cut right. Did you do a test spot?

1a. Do a spiral and spread it out to prime the pad; after that 3 dime sized drops for each panel; don't forget to clean the pad after each panel with a pad brush or microfiber towel (I do it after the panel wipe so it has time to dry before brushing).

1b. 50% overlap and say you start horizontal that's pass 1; next you go vertical that's pass 2; it depends on your combo and test spot, but 4-8 passes is common; just don't work it if it's dry because it'll just dust; don't keep adding compound because you need to see your results - why abrade more clearcoat away if you've removed the swirls?

1c. Generally 2'x2' but I say it more depends on the panel you're working on; I personally never go larger than 3'x3' for paint correction; biggest takeaway is to not let it dry out.

1d. Tap your 3 dots over the panel you'll be working then put the DA on 2, put against the paint, turn on and spread over the working area without splatter; bump it up to 5 (again it depends on your combo, test spot and expectations) and start the first pass.

1e. After your passes use a 15-50% IPA solution/Menzerna Top Inspection-er-Control Cleaner/Meguiars MirrorGlaze #34 Final Inspection/OPT Paint Prep/CarPro Eraser/Gtechniq Panel Wipe/et cetera to wipe the panel free of polishing oils for inspection of expected results; if it's free of scratches but hazy then you'll need to finish up with a low cut/finishing polish (like Meg's M205) to fully bring out the glossy shine.

1f. Yes.

BONUS
Don't forget to decontaminate your car before polishing so you save your pads and machine time; iron remover, tar remover and clay bar or a newer rubberized towel/pad/block.
 

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Furious Fuchsia 2010 Challenger R/T Classic A5
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CONTINUED...

2a. Yes but again depends on your technique, combo, test spot and expectations.

2b. There's not really a definitive line between compounds and polishes so all are cutting and finishing to a degree; some define them by what sandpaper grit scratches can be removed; what to use also depends on how hard or soft the paint is - on a scale of 1-5 I'd say 4 for my 2010 Challenger; compounds cut well but typically leave a haze whereas polishes cut enough to only just remove that haze leaving amazing, glossy paint; I've used my Menzerna 1500 Super Intensive Polish both as a 1-stage product (removed scratches with an acceptable finish) and as step 1 of a 2 stage polish (removed scratches but not an acceptable finish).

3abc. Glazes are to fill in swirls; if you polish correctly you shouldn't need it; polishing makes the paint shine so much that residual scratches (like random isolated deep scratches - RIDS) are much less apparent; to each their own but it's a step that wastes my time in machine polishing; I can see its practicality if tediously hand polishing.

HOW ABOUT SEALANT? (Or even expensive coatings for that matter.)
There are several fantastic sealants out there (Ultima Paint Guard Plus, OPT Opti-Seal, Sonax Polymer Net Shield, CarPro Reload or Hydro2) that are Wipe On Walk Away (WOWA) or Wipe On Wipe Off (WOWO) that require no buffing unlike waxes; they don't leave residue on rubber or plastic trim!; they go on VERY thin - a little goes a long way and the bottle/can last seemingly forever; generally expect 6 months of protection vs. the 3 months of a wax; some decribe a sealant like a "hard candy look" and a wax as "deeper, warmer, wetter" (um, are we still talking about auto detailing products?) so there may be some prederence there; bottomline: a sealant is too fricking easy so why not?

4a. Yes, waxes are supposed to go on thin; the thicker a wax is applied the harder to buff it off; a thicker application does not add more protection - a second coat would; I only do this by hand as I don't feel a machine is the proper tool for the job; some brands are easier to work with than others - online store and forum reviews can help you there; Collinite liquids and pastes, Dodo Juice pastes, OPT spray wax and DuraGloss AquaWax are my go to products.

4b. Buff off as soon as it hazes; I'm not a Liquid Glass user.

4c. I've never used Liquid Glass; did you call the manufacturer? If they don't have time to help their customers then are they really in it for you and your car?

FINALLY
Now learn about the various proper techniques for wash (foam prewash, top down, mitt just for the bottom, 2 buckets with GritGuards) and maintenance (electric leaf blower and clean, soft microfibers and lubricous soap/quick detailer) to keep swirls and thus swirl removal to a minimum! After a correction you should only be looking at light maintenance polishes each year going forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
CONTINUED...

2a. Yes but again depends on your technique, combo, test spot and expectations.

2b. There's not really a definitive line between compounds and polishes so all are cutting and finishing to a degree; some define them by what sandpaper grit scratches can be removed; what to use also depends on how hard or soft the paint is - on a scale of 1-5 I'd say 4 for my 2010 Challenger; compounds cut well but typically leave a haze whereas polishes cut enough to only just remove that haze leaving amazing, glossy paint; I've used my Menzerna 1500 Super Intensive Polish both as a 1-stage product (removed scratches with an acceptable finish) and as step 1 of a 2 stage polish (removed scratches but not an acceptable finish).

3abc. Glazes are to fill in swirls; if you polish correctly you shouldn't need it; polishing makes the paint shine so much that residual scratches (like random isolated deep scratches - RIDS) are much less apparent; to each their own but it's a step that wastes my time in machine polishing; I can see its practicality if tediously hand polishing.

HOW ABOUT SEALANT? (Or even expensive coatings for that matter.)
There are several fantastic sealants out there (Ultima Paint Guard Plus, OPT Opti-Seal, Sonax Polymer Net Shield, CarPro Reload or Hydro2) that are Wipe On Walk Away (WOWA) or Wipe On Wipe Off (WOWO) that require no buffing unlike waxes; they don't leave residue on rubber or plastic trim!; they go on VERY thin - a little goes a long way and the bottle/can last seemingly forever; generally expect 6 months of protection vs. the 3 months of a wax; some decribe a sealant like a "hard candy look" and a wax as "deeper, warmer, wetter" (um, are we still talking about auto detailing products?) so there may be some prederence there; bottomline: a sealant is too fricking easy so why not?

4a. Yes, waxes are supposed to go on thin; the thicker a wax is applied the harder to buff it off; a thicker application does not add more protection - a second coat would; I only do this by hand as I don't feel a machine is the proper tool for the job; some brands are easier to work with than others - online store and forum reviews can help you there; Collinite liquids and pastes, Dodo Juice pastes, OPT spray wax and DuraGloss AquaWax are my go to products.

4b. Buff off as soon as it hazes; I'm not a Liquid Glass user.

4c. I've never used Liquid Glass; did you call the manufacturer? If they don't have time to help their customers then are they really in it for you and your car?

FINALLY
Now learn about the various proper techniques for wash (foam prewash, top down, mitt just for the bottom, 2 buckets with GritGuards) and maintenance (electric leaf blower and clean, soft microfibers and lubricous soap/quick detailer) to keep swirls and thus swirl removal to a minimum! After a correction you should only be looking at light maintenance polishes each year going forward.
thank your for your post
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thank you guys for all the post and help. this is amazing and im really happy I made this thread . I don't even think I need to make another one noobs and even novice could probably grab something from this thread especially if more keep posting
SO IF YOU GOT MORE TO SAY. more is always better
 
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