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Discussion Starter #1
So I had my first oil and filter change today since I got my new car on 10/3/2017. It had about 3300 miles when I got it done. I was told since it's fully synthetic oil I don't need to change it until 6000 miles. And that i'd just be wasting money since this stuff ain't cheap.

However I read that I needed to change my no later than every 6 months. My car was built around May or something and had been sitting on the lot until I took it home in October. So seeing that it's been over 6 months even though i've only owned it for 3 I got the oil change. It was free for my first service so I didn't mind.

Now after I got my car back they put a sticker on my car to bring it back after 13,300 miles so after 10,000 miles.

Question:

1. Would you have done your first oil change 6 months after the car was built? If not when?
2. Why did they tell me to come back after 10,000 miles? Shouldn't it be 6,000 miles or 6 months whatever comes first?
3. Do they want me to void my warranty?
4. They used the following for my service:
4884899BC: Filter: Engine Oil
68171066PA :OIL: 0W40
Is that the right stuff for a 6.4L?
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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So I had my first oil and filter change today since I got my new car on 10/3/2017. It had about 3300 miles when I got it done. I was told since it's fully synthetic oil I don't need to change it until 6000 miles. And that i'd just be wasting money since this stuff ain't cheap.

However I read that I needed to change my no later than every 6 months. My car was built around May or something and had been sitting on the lot until I took it home in October. So seeing that it's been over 6 months even though i've only owned it for 3 I got the oil change. It was free for my first service so I didn't mind.

Now after I got my car back they put a sticker on my car to bring it back after 13,300 miles so after 10,000 miles.

Question:

1. Would you have done your first oil change 6 months after the car was built? If not when?
2. Why did they tell me to come back after 10,000 miles? Shouldn't it be 6,000 miles or 6 months whatever comes first?
3. Do they want me to void my warranty?
4. They used the following for my service:
4884899BC: Filter: Engine Oil
68171066PA :OIL: 0W40
Is that the right stuff for a 6.4L?
My info is the factory -- in the owners manual -- says to change the oil every 6K miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Since I am a firm believer in (pretty much) doing what the factory says I would do as, well, as the factory says.

My 2018 was built in August. February will be 6 months. I am not going to have 6K miles on the car by then. Currently it has just 1200 miles. However, I am changing the oil this weekend.

Ask the dealer why it says bring the car back in 10K miles when the factory says 6K miles. Have the owners manual with you and the page with this info on it bookmarked.

It is possible with all the different models and service intervals someone just got confused. Shouldn't happen but dealer employees are only human.

Do not think anyone there wants to cause you to void the warranty. How's the saying go? "Never attribute to malice what can be explained by incompetence." Unfortunately, you may have encountered a bit of incompetence, or at the minimum some sloppiness.

The filter part # looks familiar. The oil part # I don't recall ever seeing it before but the oil viscosity 0w-40 agrees with the factory's recommendation to use "0w-40" as in Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 Full Synthetic oil in the 6.4l engine.
 

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that oil on the service invoice is Pennzoil OW40 Ultra Platinum - factory fill oil, so its correct

the 899 filter is whats used on the 6.4 (and 5.7 as well)

you intervals are 6mos / 6K miles

they used the 10K figure which is what the 5.7 intervals are - so you're correct every 6K should be when you change oil.
 
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Yes, that 899 is the part # on the box.

In my Challenger file I have the invoice for the filter and oil....

Filter part #: 484899AC
Oil part #: 68171066PB; and the oil is definitely Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 Full Synthetic.
 

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My Challenger GT's factory oil change interval is 12 months or 12,000 miles. But I changed it at 1,000 miles in March the 2nd change at 6,000 miles in October I will be Changing it every fall and spring from now on. My Scat Pack gets changed twice a year and it's stored all winter. The longer idle time to warm the car and short 13 mile drives between home and work is not going to burn off all the condensation in the crankcase So I will start winter with fresh clean oil and begin summer the same way.
 

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My Challenger GT's factory oil change interval is 12 months or 12,000 miles. But I changed it at 1,000 miles in March the 2nd change at 6,000 miles in October I will be Changing it every fall and spring from now on. My Scat Pack gets changed twice a year and it's stored all winter. The longer idle time to warm the car and short 13 mile drives between home and work is not going to burn off all the condensation in the crankcase So I will start winter with fresh clean oil and begin summer the same way.
I wonder why the GT has a longer in between period. I mean the Scatpack I use has to use full synthetic stuff. I thought that stuff was the best.
 

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I wonder why the GT has a longer in between period. I mean the scatpack I use has to use full synthetic stuff, i thought that stuff was the best
I think the GT's change interval is the same as all the 3.6L V6 Challengers. I guess they are wanting to lower the operating cost on the v6 models to compare better to the other car makers competing models.
 

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My Challenger GT's factory oil change interval is 12 months or 12,000 miles. But I changed it at 1,000 miles in March the 2nd change at 6,000 miles in October I will be Changing it every fall and spring from now on. My Scat Pack gets changed twice a year and it's stored all winter. The longer idle time to warm the car and short 13 mile drives between home and work is not going to burn off all the condensation in the crankcase So I will start winter with fresh clean oil and begin summer the same way.

That makes sense to me, I would do the same in your situation.
 

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I wonder why the GT has a longer in between period. I mean the Scatpack I use has to use full synthetic stuff. I thought that stuff was the best.
Assuming the Scat Pack engine oil: Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 Full Synthetic; is the best, it still has a limited service life. That you can go 5K or 6K miles between oil changes vs. maybe only half those miles with a lesser oil is proof enough of that.

The 3.6l engine has a 10.2:1 compression ratio. The 6.4l engine has a 10.9:1 compression ratio. (Nearly 11:1... that's getting up there.) The 6.4l engine will all other things being equal experience more blow-by and the oil will get more contaminated. The only way to remove these contaminates is to drain the oil and replace it with fresh oil.

I have no experience with the 3.6l engine but my short time with my Scat Pack and monitoring oil temperature even in mild weather (50F to 60F) I often see oil temperatures of 220F and a bit higher. Now the oil is supposed to be "hot". With 0w-40 oil that "40" is the oil's viscosity index at 212F. The oil is designed to work at 212F. So 8F or even 10F above that is not the end of the world. Still that is a bit elevated and I might be tempted to have an oil analysis done at the end of 5K miles just to see what the oil's condition is after 5K miles.

I like to remind car owners that the oil is the sacrifical item in the engine and engine oil partnership. Oil is "sacrificed", drained and replaced periodically, to help extend the service life of the engine.

One of my previous cars covered over 320K miles. The engine received 5K mile oil/filter services (8 quarts of a synthetic oil) (and other services were done on schedule or a bit early). Even with this many miles on the engine, the engine still runs just fine, still hits redline (7200 RPMs) with ease, uses about the same amount of oil as it ever did, doesn't smoke, in short in no way manifests any signs of the nearly 1/3rd of a million miles (and probably 10,000+ hours of engine run time) it has covered.
 

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My Challenger GT's factory oil change interval is 12 months or 12,000 miles. But I changed it at 1,000 miles in March the 2nd change at 6,000 miles in October I will be Changing it every fall and spring from now on. My Scat Pack gets changed twice a year and it's stored all winter. The longer idle time to warm the car and short 13 mile drives between home and work is not going to burn off all the condensation in the crankcase So I will start winter with fresh clean oil and begin summer the same way.
Both your GT and the SP have engine oil water-to-oil coolers. So the coolant helps warm the cold oil up and maintain a consistent temperature (vs. not having a cooler, like the 5.7 RWD cars are)

You're driving enough distance that the oil should be warmed up. When temps have been in 'teens - low 20s I've observed my SP will get that oil to 215* after a few miles and maintain that temperature.

I've done drives <10 mi and the oil gets to that temperature. [I don't need to idle for warm-up, just wait for fast idle to settle down and then drive away]. I go to a Cars & Coffee meet every Saturday (weather permitting) and I run the virtual gauges all the time, so I see what things are going on.
 

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I changed my R/T at 1300 to remove the factory oil and went with Syn.Oil Next change was at 3600 and the next one is going to happen as soon as it warms up and I currently have 5300 on it. Had dealer change those first 2 but I'm doing the next in the garage. Is Pennzoil the best Syn currently on the market?
 

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Can't answer the question if Pennzoil is the best oil on the market. It is the oil Chrysler recommends for the Scat Pack engine.

Chrysler is unlikely to recommend a crummy oil so I would hazard a guess if it is not the best it is close to it. The difference between the oil Chrysler recommends and the best (better) oil is probably not that much.

Besides if there is a better oil which oil would it be? There are about a zillion oils out there.

While you get a lot of "I use this oil" or "that oil" and then followed by essentially "and the engine didn't blow up" that is not quite a strong enough recommendation for me.

I have no desire to use my brand new car as an oil test platform. The automaker has made an oil recommendation and has used its engines to help make this selection and I intend to stick with it.

Have to add that even the very best oil still needs to be changed periodically. Oil changes made at reasonable intervals goes a long way to getting the most out the engine with the least amount of effort.
 

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Oil quality has vastly improved in the last 40 years. Add this to engineering improvements in motors and you end up with a much longer safe operation interval.

Dodge goes with whoever has the best deal for them. Only a few years ago they recommended Mobil 1. The Mobil 1 Euro spec stuff is supposed to be outstanding but I use the Pennzoil product like many of you. I don't use the 899 filter though. I use the SRT filter which seems to maintain a few extra PSI of oil pressure over the 899. It should be a better filter than the 899 based on the available information.
 

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I changed my R/T at 1300 to remove the factory oil and went with Syn.Oil Next change was at 3600 and the next one is going to happen as soon as it warms up and I currently have 5300 on it. Had dealer change those first 2 but I'm doing the next in the garage. Is Pennzoil the best Syn currently on the market?
Mobil 1 (full syn - not the blend) and Pennzoil Ultra are two of the top synthetics available in the mass market.

SRT moved to Pennzoil (Ferrari was using Pennzoil for a number years already) and SRT spec'd a higher moly level over what Mobil 1 utilizes. The '05 - '10 SRT recommend Mobil 1, then from '11 onward switched to Pennzoil Ultra.

There's others out there - and others will post that. For what you can find online or get readily in the parts stores (or at dealer) those two brands are readily available.
 
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On my grand cherokee, 5.0 f150, and 6.1L srt magnum, i do/did 10,000 mile oil changes with mobil one synthetic in the appropriate weights for each vehicle... at 10k on each one, the oil was still super slick and clean.. I will do the same on my 6.4L challenger.
 

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I haven't driven my Scat Pack in weather this cold so I don't know how fast they get the oil up to temp. but the 3.6L in the GT I use the remote start about 10 min. before leaving work at midnight and when I get in the car the oil is between 105 and 120 and the highest it has ever been when I pull into my garage is 187 after the about 15 min, drive home. The temp here in Dayton has been in the teens for a week so I have been using the engine block heater at home and on start up to go to work the oil temp. is around 50 to 55 and still in the 180s when I get to work. I guess more displacement and 2 more pistons warm up a little faster.
 

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One other question will the SRT filter work on my R/T 5.7 2015 and it that a dealer only purchase

Yes, the SRT filter works just fine on the 5.7. Used them on my '10 R/TC. I pay about $13.50 at the dealer for them.
 
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Chrysler owned my vehicle for the first 40,000 miles, as a pilot/test vehicle. They did the first two oil changes at around 6000 mile intervals, and then went WAY longer after that. They also replaced the engine at 29,000-ish miles. I doubt one is related to the other. What I do know, is that they didn't care as much about 6000 mile intervals as they want you to.
 

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I doubt one is related to the other. What I do know, is that they didn't care as much about 6000 mile intervals as they want you to.

Exactly, it’s all about the money. They just want your money. You can use the least expensive brand out there with the correct weight and I guarantee there won’t be any major issues. Changing the oil every 6 months is ridiculous. Especially synthetic.
I used only regular oil in one of my fleet cars that we put 250k hard miles on when I sold it. Bought it brand new and changed the oil every 4K miles. The engine was still as strong as day one. No catch can either.
What’s the market share of Pennzoil? Exactly.
How many other car manufacturers recommend Pennzoil? Exactly
How many hot rod shops recommended Pennzoil? Exactly.
You get the idea. Just my .02
 
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