Welcome to Challengertalk Whenever we see multiple issues, we first ask if you have confirmed proper battery voltage?

A Guy

 

Yes a new battery has been put in, new batteries in the key fob, but it still keeps doing it.

 

Not to beat a dead horse, you put in a new battery but did you fully charge it? Batteries usually aren't fully charged when they are purchased, most have enough to get you started and out the door. I typically put a new battery on charge before I install it. Easier on the charging system and they seem to last longer. Good luck👍

 

In the morning after the car has not run for hours, turn the car to on without stating it (don't but foot on brake).

Navigate the EVIC to battery voltage. What does that show to the nearest 0.1 V. 12.6 is a fully charged wet-cell battery. 12.7V is a fully charged AGM battery.

Or use any cheap voltmeter to measure it right at the battery, key point is to measure when the car has not run for a while. This is an indicator of true charge, not a substitute for a load test but a very good indicator of true state of charge.

What you are describing is typical for a failing or partially discharged battery. There are other causes, but need to start with this. A solid battery is needed both for proper operation and as a foundation for troubleshooting.

Report back.

 

Was anything electrical recently done beside the Battery? Stereo, Lights, etc.,?

 

Typically that's a sign of a bad ground. Given the age of the car, it's not uncommon to find loose or corroded grounds. Check them all, particularly the ones at the engine block.

As a side note: Yes we call them grounds, but they are actually not grounds at all, they are negative battery connections. That's why things go hay wire when the connection becomes bad. Pretty hard to have a ground when you're sitting on 4 rubber tires.