You'll need to purchase a camber kit to change it. I how there is at least one kit out there. I thought about it on my car to see if it will help the tires last longer.

 

Yes, 2.3 is too high. I would have it checked on a modern alignment rack. If needed, there are aftermarket links and bushings to correct camber.

 

That's what I thought. It wasn't lowered, so I don't get why the camber is on the higher end? I have seen other Challenger's with camber like mine, but not many. I will say though, that it rides and handles like a dream! I just want more tread on the pavement. I've taken it by two local Dodge dealerships, and the response was pathetic. A dealership near Daytona told me to bring it in for a full inspection.

I saw a Challenger at Bahama Breeze this afternoon. The camber looked just as extreme as mine.

 

With the factory installed suspension, there is no provision made for adjusting rear camber except by replacing the camber link. The specs for rear camber are pretty wide (-1.75*, +/- .55*). So if your Challenger is at -2.3*, it is over. I aligned my Challenger myself (I work in the service department), and ended up replacing the camber link on both sides. Aftermarket camber links or bushings can give a greater degree of adjustment, but I didn't want to get into installing aftermarket parts on a new car when I could get the factory parts. I have seen many Challengers with what looked like excessive negative rear camber that check out within specs once I get them on the rack. That is why I suggested having it checked on an alignment rack. If your tire wear is good, you may not want to spend the money to tweak the alignment.

 

Okay, thanks. I'll take it to Daytona Dodge and let them check it out. If it's out of max spec., Dodge should cover it under warranty.

 

Running an extreme amount of negative camber will eventually result in ruined tires. The inner 1” or so of the tread will wear down to the steel belts, necessitating replacement.

That can be hard pill to swallow - replacing a tire due to wear - when the other 75% of the contact patch has plenty of tread on it.

A certain amount of mitigation is possible by running the tires’ pressure +7-8 PSI, but the car’s ride suffers as a result for sure.

 

I tried 38psi and it rode like a brick. 33psi seems perfect. I'll have Dodge do a thorough check. I think the car was lowered at some point, which may have caused the additional camber. I don't know? I sure love the way it handles, but like you said, I don't want to burn-through tires prematurely. It's also a little sketchy on wet pavement. We stopped by Dodge and checked the camber on five Challengers, and none of them were over 1.7 degrees RW camber. I spoke with my brother-in-law (former race car driver) about it this evening. He described 2.3 degrees RW camber as "dedicated track" camber. He also said that if it were set-up for track, the FW camber would be more negative than the front, which it is not. FW camber is 1.5 degrees. It's always something...

 

Wet roads will be sketchy since the tires’ full contact patch isn’t at work removing water as it rolls through it.

Check the color of the coil springs, front and back. If they aren’t black, they’re lowering springs. Even if they’re black they could still be aftermarket lowering springs, but non-black ones definitely will be.

And there’s also the possibility a previous owner cut a coil off the OE springs to lower it. You wouldn’t be able to tell just by looking at them though (maybe the front ones, but it would require very close inspection of the topmost coil’s end which will be butted up against the spring boot and partially obscured).

Honestly just looking at the wheel well gap above the tires should make it pretty clear if it’s riding at stock ride height or not.

Assuming the car didn’t come with STP suspension from the factory, the stock ride height will leave about 2-3 inches of space between the top of each tire and the bottom of the wheel well.

Anything less and it’s either been lowered or it came with STP from the factory (but that can be checked by a quick of the factory build sheet or even checking the color of the shocks - yellow means Bilstein and that’s only on STP suspensions).

 

I run -2.1* rear, lowered on Eibach springs and have perfect tire wear. Earlier someone stated -1.75 +/-0.55 is the spec which would put -2.3* right at the upper limit. Too many people are scared of negative camber due to experience with non performance cars. I’d be more worried about why -2.3 at stock ride height, not just the -2.3.

 

I think the car was lowered by 1". Will lowering a car by 1" affect the RW camber?

Wet roads will be sketchy since the tires’ full contact patch isn’t at work removing water as it rolls through it.

Check the color of the coil springs, front and back. If they aren’t black, they’re lowering springs. Even if they’re black they could still be aftermarket lowering springs, but non-black ones definitely will be.

And there’s also the possibility a previous owner cut a coil off the OE springs to lower it. You wouldn’t be able to tell just by looking at them though (maybe the front ones, but it would require very close inspection of the topmost coil’s end which will be butted up against the spring boot and partially obscured).

Honestly just looking at the wheel well gap above the tires should make it pretty clear if it’s riding at stock ride height or not.

Assuming the car didn’t come with STP suspension from the factory, the stock ride height will leave about 2-3 inches of space between the top of each tire and the bottom of the wheel well.

Anything less and it’s either been lowered or it came with STP from the factory (but that can be checked by a quick of the factory build sheet or even checking the color of the shocks - yellow means Bilstein and that’s only on STP suspensions).

Black springs, STP w/Bilstein suspension.

 

Black springs, STP w/Bilstein suspension.

So it’s already “lowered” then, just done so by the factory. Really the best of all the possibilities honestly.

 

Yes, factory lowered. Thing is, why would Dodge not us an alternate control arm length to correct the additional negative camber effect? Do they think -2.3 is acceptable?

 

Camber doesn't affect tire wear as much with the modern radial tires as it did back in the day with bias ply or bias belted tires. Tire pressure and toe settings are more critical for good tire wear now. If the camber on my car was in specs, even on the high or low end of the acceptable range, I would leave it alone.

 

The real culprit of premature wear is toe, not camber

 

^^^^^!!!

 

You replied to his?

A Guy

 

Umm... This is my thread?

Yonko

 

Really depends on what you are doing with it. Or what is acceptable to you. It's not factory but it should handle better like that. Toe affects tire wear more than camber. Being at -2.5 front and -3 rear but having my toe settings done well my tread depth of my street tires (Michelin PS4S 275/40R20) after 16k miles has only a 1/32 difference between the inside and outside of the tires (4/32 inside, 5/32 outside).