I've had both Front and Rear Mopar Strut Braces on my 13' Charger Daytona R/T. The Front Strut Tower Brace is pretty easy to install although the Mopar one requires you to drill into the firewall. The Rear Strut Tower Brace is a PITA to install and you lose some trunk space. If I do decide to add one again it will only be for the front. I may also not go for the Mopar one since I want to keep clearance in case I end up with the Mopar Shaker Kit.

//edit -- Boy I miss seeing ol' Blue!

 

Are there ones available where you don't have to drill?

 

IMO, yes. Any Challenger will benefit from front and rear strut tower bracing.


I've got the Mopar front, and Petty 4 point rear on my R/TC, and they made a solid car, even more solid.Worth every penny to me, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.


More torque means more stress on the unibody.............bracing will help keep the body stiffer. Stiffer body = better control and handling.


Best of luck deciding

 

You don't have to drill into the firewall, it's just the factory cross bar that can be replaced if you ever want to return to stock...

 

Had one on all my Challengers and Charger, they work and yes you can tell its there. Front makes more of a difference than the rear.

 

I've had the Petty 4 point front strut tower brace and also the 4 point rear brace by them on my 09 R/T and it made a huge difference. Eventually I want to get it down with my scat pack. Like others have said, the rear bar is more of a pain in the ass than the front one. I would do both though.

 

I have the Speedlogix front strut bar (which is made by Razors Edge) and I did notice a difference immediately. Here in Portland, people can run studded tires in the winter, which causes the roads to develop ruts over time. Before the strut bar I never really noticed the ruts, because the front end must've been slightly wandering due to the flex. AFTER I installed the strut bar, I notice the ruts as they try to grab my wheel and force it whatever direction. I was really surprised by this reaction to the street deformations. It definitely feels more responsive! Razors Edge makes 2 models, one for cars without a supercharger or one with. Make sure you specify which one you will need. Either will work on a non-supercharged car.

 

Brandy, I bet if you put them on, you'll change your mind. I don't think I could hit 1+ G on the track without the front and rear braces. You'll also notice the difference on the street driving. Trust us.


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Brandy, I bet if you put them on, you'll change your mind. I don't think I could hit 1+ G on the track without the front and rear braces. You'll also notice the difference on the street driving. Trust us.


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Very well put.

 

If anything they make the engine bay look cool......

 

Just found the Razor's Edge two point rear strut tower bar, it looks like it could be a space saver. Might end up with that and the Petty in the front.

 

Very cool. I'm surprised that the SRT models didn't come with the front from the factory.

 

You keep saying 3 mode suspension. Its misleading. It's actually 2 mode suspension. The 3rd mode only applies to the A5s that basically changes the gears at higher rpms. So 3rd mode doesn't do anything to the suspension.


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You keep saying 3 mode suspension. Its misleading. It's actually 2 mode suspension. The 3rd mode only applies to the A5s that basically changes the gears at higher rpms. So 3rd mode doesn't do anything to the suspension.


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3 mode not my words but dodges You have normal sport and track. They are all different so hence 3 mode.

 

Arrington look the coolest

 

The 3 mode is a very good suspension for stock but the flex in the body and on the towers are still noticable IMO there is a lot more than just strut braces to improve the handling. I have run the Pettys and Speedlogixs on mine up front and the Pettys 4 point in the rear tremendous improvemnt but if you want to really make it stick also do the sub frame connectors...

 

The 3 mode is a very good suspension for stock but the flex in the body and on the towers are still noticable IMO there is a lot more than just strut braces to improve the handling. I have run the Pettys and Speedlogixs on mine up front and the Pettys 4 point in the rear tremendous improvemnt but if you want to really make it stick also do the sub frame connectors...

The sub bracing is on my bucket list to. The final key for a stiff unibody.


Only reason that I have pulled the trigger myself, is that I'm slowing weighing the difference/advantages/disadvantages of welded in, versus bolted on.


Preparation is a major thing for me, so either mounting method has to have areas prepped, primered, and painted. Long term rust in these areas do concern me. That's my anal spot on sub bracing, and it may not be for others.


Your unibody can never be too stiff. It takes the abuse from everything.

 

Yes the front and rear braces make a big difference, the car feels flatter in turns. Very noticeable

Petty's builds nice bars with great welds and finish, recommended

 

Yes the front and rear braces make a big difference, the car feels flatter in turns. Very noticeable

Petty's builds nice bars with great welds and finish, recommended

Just a question. Why is every one who responds to the ops question driving an R/T or an older SRT with out the 3 mode. I am sure your R?T or 2011 and older cars are seeing a big difference with the strut brace but the newer cars with the 3 mode are not.

 

Don't listen to anyone on this thread who does not have this done. Listen to those of us who have. Two words - Do it..

 

:werd:

 

My strut brace looks just as good in my non 3 mode suspension as it would in your 3 mode suspension.

Mines always in sport mode.....

 

Would only installing the front be beneficial? Really no desire to lose trunk space or go through the trouble of installing the rear.

Always looking for a better handling ride; and a better looking engine bay.

 

Yup, I did the front first and then a few months later the rear. Felt a difference with each brace

 

The way to test the chassis is to install strain gauges between the towers and towers to frame to see how much the chassis flexes under load. This has been done by Hemissary on the LXForum. Summary: Not worth it.

 

Maybe I'll chime in with my lowly, outdated 2010 R/T STP, but I noticed a nice change when I put the Mopar front strut brace on. The car feels more rigid.... and during hard turns the car feels like it tracks/sticks better to the road. And yes, I did notice an improve in steering feel with my outdated 2010 pizza pan steering wheel.

And yes, I would take the opinions of guys on here who have actually done it to their cars, then read some magazine. All my mods were picked because of testimonials of regular guys like us. I also wanted to buy as many all-American aftermarket parts that I could.

 

Maybe I'll chime in with my lowly, outdated 2010 R/T STP, but I noticed a nice change when I put the Mopar front strut brace on. The car feels more rigid.... and during hard turns the car feels like it tracks/sticks better to the road. And yes, I did notice an improve in steering feel with my outdated 2010 pizza pan steering wheel.

And yes, I would take the opinions of guys on here who have actually done it to their cars, then read some magazine. All my mods were picked because of testimonials of regular guys like us. I also wanted to buy as many all-American aftermarket parts that I could.

what has your outdated as you put it 2010 R/T suspension got to do with the OPs question. He has a 2015 SRT. he wanted to know if the strut brace was worth the money on his car not yours. You don't have a 2015 SRT and your suspension was very different from the factory than his is. He has a much better factory suspension that will not benefit from having a strut brace.

 

:deadhorse:

Since you have never actually installed or driven with braces on your magic 3-mode suspension that miraculously stiffens the frame, I suggest the OP reject your insistence it does nothing. Check back when you have actual experience with what you are talking about.

 

:deadhorse:

Since you have never actually installed or driven with braces on your magic 3-mode suspension that miraculously stiffens the frame, I suggest the OP reject your insistence it does nothing. Check back when you have actual experience with what you are talking about.

Every one here who has said the brace works has a R/T. You don't have the 3mode so you cant comment with any authority. I have owned a 2009 SRT and it did benefit from the brace but it did not have the 3 mode. My 2012 has the 3mode and many other suspension upgrades from the factory and will not benefit from a strut brace. If you don't own a SRT with the 3 mode refrain from commenting on some thing you don't now have or never have had. You have zero experience with the newer SRT suspension and the 3 mode.

 

I did not make a recommendation to the OP, since I don't have that exact model.
I only suggested he not listen to someone who also has no experience with this model AND strut braces TOGETHER....which you DO NOT, therefore, you are no more qualified than I am to make that recommendation.

 

I have had two SRTs one 09 and my present 12 with the 3mode so yes I do have experience. His is a 15 SRT with even better suspension. The model is a challenger which is what I have. So what are you talking about. I have a 12 now which has the same 3 mode his car has and a 09 before which did not have the 3mode I said I put a brace on the 09 but my 12 doesn't need it. He doesn't need the brace its a waste of money for him to buy.

 

Dear OP

Gee! what a thread and debate over that stuff;

Get the REM/Speedlogix gear or the 4 point rear Petty tower brace but REM/Speedlogix do the same and even better designed and manufactured and i think supporting women ran/owned businesses and/or small businesses like Paul's Razor Edge is way cooler

Petty shits on my girlfriend Danica, and I can't have that, period; so no love from me to the old man; Great racer though

....or buy it all from Wretched Motorsports; he is a also a sponsored vendor here and Rob Anderson is the sh@t in suspension install and set up for the Challenger

i just spent thousands of dollars on suspension meaning there is absolutely nothing stock left in my car to the exception of some bushings that are not yet manufactured (ie: front lower control arm, front tension strut) and the conclusion for me being that now I am pulling >1.15g and more, easy, I have been spanking 4x4 Subaru, Lancers on the track and old corvette gens see my ass rather than me, feeling sorry; (ok i run 18's with 275's track tires and the car is 3 inches off the ground... so i am bragging all the way...lol)

on the street with my stock SRT suspension, the front tower brace did not make much of a difference;
it looked good but did not help me to be quicker on the street; damn it is the street what do u expect....

ok may be tiny bit by making me feel more confident, but at the end with a good job at trail braking a corner, this was not an investment to be remembered by....when it was on its own

on the track i did pretty much the HPDE 2 season on stock SRT suspension and my one front tower brace;

that baby was useless; i was still all over the place and i think even more so because my front tower brace made everything rigid in the front and made my rear feel so soft in comparison i really burnt through tire and brake pads and rotors at Thompson speedway; the car was no longer balanced;

i remember running my 2012 SRT at Monticello on stock EVERYTHING except tires and having more fun

then came the investment; the biggest of my life for a piece of steel on wheel; even my wife does not get that kind of love...

the rear brace was most noticeable; with all that torque, power on the rear especially getting into turns, downshifting, then applying power, the rear brace made everything even with the front; that brace I noticed 20 times more than the front; THEY NEEDED TO BE ADDED TOGETHER

so if you have a 2015, and go push that button that makes compression in the shocks go stiff and rebound tighter, then by all means get BOTH tower braces, the front AND the rear AT THE SAME DAMN TIME;

then you will see the crazy difference with the front and the rear working in harmony, the braces sending back body deflection attempts back into the suspension geometry keeping everything leveled at all times;

you will be steering in there like a king and if you learn how to trail brake, you will be way ahead of the pack, killing it

the engineers at SRT designed the suspensions to create minimum deflection and if deflection is there the active dampening is so fast that it compensates for tons of suspension events occurring per seconds

just know that the stiffer the suspension set up will be, the more the deflection on the body will be important, hence having tower braces for spirited drivers is always a good thing, keeping the geometry of the suspension, with minimal mechanical performance distortion

so here is my experience after 2 years on the street and 1.5 year on the track (15 track days)

do what you gotta do

Cheers

ODP

 

Not sure about the drama between you and Petty, but I sincerely thank you for your detailed response!! :thumbsup:

 

to complete on the subject of suspension, oversteer and understeer, may i recommend the "ENGINEER IN YOUR POCKET" A practical guide to tuning the race car chassis and suspension, by CARROLL SMITH

it is small enough to be next to your smart phone and will learn a lot on how to understand your car dynamics

well worth the money and the guy is a legend

ODP

 

I have to support O_Racing, he has it down, the stock SRT8 and I've owned both R/T, SRT are still compromising the ride quality for comfort. Cornering and skidpads are being quoted but I think should be noted, anytime there is flex, and or pitch and yaw, energy is being wasted in regards to the forward motion The various braces and bushings put more of the power down, it's all about cutting down wasted power weather your going straight or aroung a curve, you're just not going to get the most power on the ground until it's straight,aligned and level,

Thanks

 

I understand from everyone who has actual experience with and without strut bars that they make the suspension tighter (those with NO experience disagree) but I've never driven my car without the brace and my question is... would a front brace make the car noticeably stiffer over road irregularities (bumps, potholes) or is that not affected? I test drove 2012 R/T's with STP and they seemed very comfortable when encountering cracks, small irregularities in the road, my 2013 will jar your teeth loose on the smallest of irregularities in the road but it feels tighter and flatter while turning and curves and such than the 12's I drove.... am I feeling the full effects of the front strut bar or do the 13's just feel a bit more stiff without it? I'm not a racer and I've only been on TMS for a charity event but if the bar is affecting the ride quality I'm wondering if I need it?

any comparisons in ride quality with and without a front stut bar?