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Brown Tires? Information on "Blooming"

18K views 25 replies 16 participants last post by  '09inferno  
#1 · (Edited)
I found this very good write up on tire "blooming" and tire care. I just wanted to share it as it is very well-written and easy to understand explanation of why tires turn brown and steps to take to properly care for your tires. :rocker:

Tire Detailing

Tires are critical to the overall appearance of a car and yet are often overlooked. Considering the fact that tires are in continual contact with the road and suffer from adverse effects of road tar, dirt, grime, water, salt, brake dust, grease AND ultra violet radiation (UVR), ozone, and oxygen, it is understandable that they require great care. Over time, tire rubber simply degrades. As a matter of fact, vehicle manufacturers recommend, independent of tire mileage, that tires be replaced, typically after six years, as a means of preventing sudden failure!

From a detailer’s perspective, not only do we want tires to look nice (i.e. appear new), but we also want to protect them from the elements identified above. A properly cared for tire will add significantly to the overall appearance of a well-detailed vehicle. With this in mind, let’s first try to understand one of the most obvious negative visual features of a tire: tire browning.

Tire Browning: Blooming

Modern rubber formulas used by tire manufactures contain an ingredient called Antiozonant. An antiozonant is a chemical that tire manufacturers add to the tire rubber to help prevent rubber degradation (cracking, splitting, oxidizing, and overall deterioration) due to the rubber’s interaction with ozone (an odorless gas that is part of the air we breathe). Quite interesting is the fact that tire rubber is designed to constantly work the antiozonant to the outside of the tire as it rolls – in this way, the outside surface of the tire is continually replenished with fresh antiozonant. This process provides the positive result of ozone protection, but the negative result of tire browning – once the antiozonant gets exposed to the ozone in the air, it turns brown due to oxidation. The technical term for this effect is blooming. The next time you are in a parking lot, observe the tires on the vehicles you pass – most likely you will see a brownish film on the surface of the tires. As we will discuss in a moment, you can wash your tires with car wash soap or an all-purpose cleaner (APC), e.g. Purple Power Cleaner Degreaser, to remove some of the film, but it will simply return in a few weeks! Every time you drive your car, the antiozonant migrates its way to the outside of the tires. One thing you might be aware of is the fact that vehicles that sit for extended periods of time (months or years) often have tires that show evidence of cracking and drying (dry rot). This cracking occurs due to the fact that there is no opportunity for the tires’ antiozonant to migrate to the surface to provide protection.


An example of tire blooming/browning

Image


Tire Cleaners

So, how can you successfully clean and protect a tires surface? As mentioned above, using car wash soap or an APC will enable you to remove some of the brown film from tires and this, in most cases, is all you will need. A word of caution. A trip to your local auto parts store will yield a number of products designed to clean tires. Some of these products contain harsh cleaners and detergents – using a harsh tire cleaner may also remove the outer layer of tire rubber and may have the detrimental effect of increasing tire blooming as more antiozonant will migrate and permeate the tire surface during flexing. As with every aspect of a car, use the least aggressive method first! This simply means to use the least aggressive cleaner and least aggressive cleaning method – if this does not work, move on to the next aggressive product and/or method.

As a first step, you will need to gently clean the tire surface. The tire cleaner you use needs to be strong enough to remove existing contaminants but not so strong that it damages the tire or wheel coating. I typically clean my tires using the same soap as I would use to wash my car (Meguiar’s NXT, Meguiar’s Gold Class, Optimum No Rinse, Pinnacle Body Work Shampoo, P21S Total Auto Wash, etc.) along with a soft bristle brush or wash mitt (the type of wash mitt is not crucial). As long as you use a reputable car wash soap, you should not have problems. Keep in mind that completely removing the ‘browning’ may not be possible – that is OK. Once you apply a tire protectant (dressing), the browning will disappear.
Tire Dressings

Prior to the application of a tire dressing, you need to make sure the tire is cleaned as per above to properly prepare your tire for application of a protectant or dressing (and that the tire is dry). Keep in mind that tire dressings won’t adhere to or create the right shine on a dirty rubber surface. As is the case for tire cleaning products found on the market, there are also a plethora of tire dressings.

There are two types of tire dressings you will find on the market: water-based and solvent based. Water-based dressings, often a milky-white liquid, should not harm rubber over time. Water-based dressings are typically a combination of naturally occurring oils and synthetic polymers that provide a very nice non-greasy, satin-like finish – very similar to the look of a new tire. Some water-based tire dressings also contain UVR blocking agents to help keep tires from cracking, fading and hardening. As an added bonus, most, if not all, water-based dressings are friendly to the environment. I have had excellent success with Meguiar’s Hyperdressing, an extremely nice all-around rubber dressing that doesn’t ‘sling’ off tires as you drive. Stoner More Shine and Meguiar’s Hot Shine are also nice tire dressings but tend to leave the surface of the tire too shiny. Perhaps the best product I have used is 303 Aerospace Protectant…spray on the tire, leave for 5 minutes, and then wipe off the residue. Solvent-based silicone dressings, often a clear, greasy, sticky liquid, leave a wet, glossy film on the tire surface. Be careful, some solvent-based dressings contain petroleum distillate solvents that, over time, may lead to premature drying and cracking of the tire surface. The difference between water- and solvent-based dressings is simply in the ‘carrier’ system used. Solvent-based products use a hydrocarbon silicone to suspend the product whereas water-based products use water. When you apply these products, the carrier evaporates leaving behind the intended protectant – silicone oil; this oil is not friendly to the environment and may harm the tire. In addition, solvent-based silicone dressings have the tendency to sling off the tire onto the paint (as shown below).


Evidence of solvent-based tire dressing sling

Image


While application of a tire dressing is quite easy, there are a few points to keep in mind. First, don’t apply too much dressing. Simply apply some dressing to a dedicated tire rag, towel, or foam applicator and wipe the dressing on the tire to provide a nice, even coverage. Be careful not to get the dressing on the car or the wheel – particulary when using an aerosol spray. Stoner More Shine and Meguiar’s Hot Shine both come in aerosol cans. Meguiar’s Hyperdressing typically comes in a gallon size container. Hyperdressing needs to be diluted as it is very concentrated. I dilute it 1:1 and have had excellent results. Some other detailer’s dilute it 2:1 (2 parts water, 1 part Hyperdressing). Either way, you will need to find what is best for you and what look you are trying to achieve. A gallon of Hyperdressing will last a long time and is very cost effective. Third, a few minutes after you apply the dressing, wipe the tire with a clean rag or towel to remove any residue. And fourth, try to keep the tire dressing off of the tire tread. Tire dressing, either water- or solvent-based, will make the tire tread slippery.

While all of the above may sound a bit complicated, the procedure is actually quite simple and will only take a few minutes per tire. In the end you will end up with a well protected tire that looks like it came out of a show room!
 
#2 · (Edited)
I'd be curious to know what you guys have found has worked for you to keep your tires looking new?

I have read many ideas, some good and some interesting. One old-timer said that they
had always used kerosene back in the day with great success. I'm sure that's not the best option today, but it worked for them back then.

Please share any tips and tricks you use to keep your tires looking great. Maybe there is an idea out there that we all could benefit from. :clap:
 
#3 ·
303 Aerospace Protectant is, by far, the best product on the market for tires. I have been using it on all of the rubber, vinyl, leather and plastic parts on all my cars for close to fifteen years, and the results are amazing. No cracking or deterioration on any of the parts I've treated.
 
#4 ·
I've actually been looking at the 303 Aerospace Protectant. What is your method to applying it to your tires? Have you ever had any get on the wheels? I'm curious how hard it is to get off the chrome and if it is at all harmful for the wheels? Does it leave a matte finish or will your tires shine a good bit? How long does an application last?

Thanks! It really looks like some good stuff!
 
#5 ·
Getramd,

I usually apply it by spraying 303 into a 3x3 inch cube of sponge cut off from a larger block. Be sure to place the nozzle of the 303 bottle against the surface of the sponge when spraying, as any breeze tends to carry little drops which will invariably land on areas you don't want them on - paint, windows, et al. I then gently press the sponge against the tires or other surfaces to be treated in an even fashion, making sure the product spreads out. You don't want to see any little pools where the product's white color shows, just a clear, even, wet gloss that indicates that the 303 will be absorbed in an equal amount. As it gets absorbed the gloss will dissipate, leaving behind a satin finish that looks like new tire, no BS Armor-All gloss or sticky residue. Upon drying, the surface will be smooth to the touch, as if nothing at all has been applied. Simply AMAZING!

Since 303 is not a silicone based product, getting over-applicaton off of wheels, chrome and paint is far easier than with other products. Simply spray a good Final Inspection detail spray like Mother's or Meguire's onto the surface and wipe with a clean microfiber towel and you're done.

On my Challenger's interior, I applied 303 to every piece of plastic, rubber and leather about 3 months ago, and it still shows off a satin luster as if it was applied just a few days ago. It effectively resists coming off on your clothes or hands, because unlike other products, 303 bonds molecularly, and doesn't sit on top of the surface. Seriously amazing technology with the highest UV protection on the market. And I have no affiliation with the company other than religiously using their stuff.

Hope this helps, brother.

Rob
 
#6 ·
Getramd,

I usually apply it by spraying 303 into a 3x3 inch cube of sponge cut off from a larger block. Be sure to place the nozzle of the 303 bottle against the surface of the sponge when spraying, as any breeze tends to carry little drops which will invariably land on areas you don't want them on - paint, windows, et al. I then gently press the sponge against the tires or other surfaces to be treated in an even fashion, making sure the product spreads out. You don't want to see any little pools where the product's white color shows, just a clear, even, wet gloss that indicates that the 303 will be absorbed in an equal amount. As it gets absorbed the gloss will dissipate, leaving behind a satin finish that looks like new tire, no BS Armor-All gloss or sticky residue. Upon drying, the surface will be smooth to the touch, as if nothing at all has been applied. Simply AMAZING!

Since 303 is not a silicone based product, getting over-applicaton off of wheels, chrome and paint is far easier than with other products. Simply spray a good Final Inspection detail spray like Mother's or Meguire's onto the surface and wipe with a clean microfiber towel and you're done.

On my Challenger's interior, I applied 303 to every piece of plastic, rubber and leather about 3 months ago, and it still shows off a satin luster as if it was applied just a few days ago. It effectively resists coming off on your clothes or hands, because unlike other products, 303 bonds molecularly, and doesn't sit on top of the surface. Seriously amazing technology with the highest UV protection on the market. And I have no affiliation with the company other than religiously using their stuff.

Hope this helps, brother.

Rob
 
#23 ·
#9 ·
Rob,

I found this thread doing a search. Are you still happy with the 303 Aerospace Protectant? I am looking for something that completely dries. If you run your finger over it the next day do you feel any slickness at all, or is it actually dry to the touch?
 
#19 ·
Yes, I still use it exclusively. If you let it absorb overnight, there is very little in the way of slickness at all. Try it. You will not be disappointed.
 
#10 ·
IMO/IME, 303 does add a bit of a slickness to some surfaces as well as a satin-like sheen. .....even when buffed thoroughly as directed. I am a long time user as well but this is one reason I don't like it for interiors. Its just personal preference. I prefer products that leave a clean OEM finish like Einzsett (1z) C0ckpit Premium or Meguiars Quick Interior Detailer which is very similar to the former but costs much less when purchased by the gallon.

Having read some of the remarks in this thread, I think there are a couple of points that need clarification.....

First, the article the OP posted is good information and I agree with nearly all of it. I wish the OP would have credited the author though by providing a link or at least their name. One thing I wish the article would have expanded on was silicones (a commonly misunderstood subject). While not necessarily inaccurate, he only mentions silicone when discussing solvent based products. The fact is that those water based dressings (and yes, even 303 AP) contain silicone as well. The difference is the type.

PDMS - Polydimethylsiloxane are the type typically in the water based products he mentioned and DMS - Dimethyl silicone is typically in those solvent based products he suggested you avoid for these applications.

On another note, I also use Meguiars Hyper Dressing and prefer it over 303 for use on tires. Mainly for the the same reason the author mentioned (you can dilute it based on the finish/look you're going for). However, he only mentions ratios of 1:1 & 2:1. The fact is that the recommended dilution ratios go as far as 4:1. Personally, I prefer 3:1 perhaps a bit more (diluted). That ratio leaves a nice matte finish once wiped down.

I use a method similar to Rob for applying dressings to tires. I buy grout sponges and cut them down to small blocks that I use as applicators. Very cheap and (IMO) quite effective. I then spray the product on to the applicator and apply liberally to the tire. I follow up with a folded towel that is lightly misted with product to "knock down" the finish, even it out and absorb any excess product.

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#11 · (Edited)
I've had good luck using Vinylex (UV 60) by Lexol that's used in the boating/RV world. Vinylex by Lexol

Seems to work really well on tires and outer rubber seals around side windows if the car is stored outside. It's water based silicone since it's milky white and can be ordered online and picked up at Wally World or on amazon.

Vinylex Protectant cleans and protects with a one-step formula that actually nourishes vinyl, rubber and plastic surfaces. It reduces cracking by penetrating below the surface layer to nourish and revitalize underlying plasticizers. Vinylex is ideal for your RV, Boat and Tonneau Covers!

For the interior I use Meguiars Natural Shine protectant with Scotchgard for the dash and door panels - doesn't leave any residue on surfaces and has UV protection.
 
#14 ·
Yep, after I started this thread I purchased some 303 and I haven't looked back.

In fact, I'm on my second gallon. We use it on many things around the house and on all of our vehicles. I have been very impressed.

TONS of options out there. 303 is tops on my list.
 
#15 ·
303 protectant is the best. I will be using it exclusively on my new Challenger. I have used it on my 2003 GMC Sierra 4X4 and have lived in climates that are high desert hot and high desert Cold freezing. All of my rubber looks brand new, soft and new looking. The make the 303 in Redding , calif. actually Palo Cedro which is next to redding. the 303 is is hard to find here in Nevada where I am so I guess I will have to mail order it.
Bert
 
#17 · (Edited)
Hopefully someone will chime in. I have limited experience in this case (I don't like high gloss products so I never sought them out). One such product might be Duragloss 253. When used it I noticed a potential to provide a higher level of shine but I would knock it down during application (looking at the msds it appears to be water based).

I currently use Meguiars Hyper Shine from their Detailer line. It is water based and can be diluted depending on the the level of shine you want. I typically dilute it a little less than 4:1 to give a very matte finish. I've never personally tried it at a low ratio (like 1:1) but I have heard others claim it adds a decent gloss. The "problem" with most water based dressings is that they tend not to last as long as their solvent based counterparts.

One thing I would suggest is once you narrow down your choices, I would do an image search on Google to find some examples of the product applied (to see if you like the finish). You may also want to do some searches on detailing-specific forums like Autopia.org using keywords like "high gloss dressing water based" to see if you get any hits on some products that might work for you.

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#18 ·
Aerospace 303 is an excellent product, but after using Adam's Super VRT (vinyl, rubber, trim) dressing, my Aerospace 303 has sat on the shelf. I find the Super VRT easier to apply, lasts longer, and gives SPF 65 protection (I believe 303 is SPF 35). I use Super VRT on the tire, front grill/headlight surround, tail light surround, front spoiler and rocker panel cladding, front facia where the windshield wipers are, any plastic piece in the engine bay... Any place with black plastic.
 
#21 ·
....Ace Hardware also carries (if they have stores in your area) and I have seen it at some home improvement centers. Marine and RV supply outlets are also good places to look. However, you'll likely only find the gallon size online. .....which is more economical once you decide if you like it. I always have a jug in one of my detailing cabinets.

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#22 ·
"Be careful not to get the dressing on the car or the wheel – particulary when using an aerosol spray."

I measured my rim size at the tire, and cut out a round shield from cardboard the same diameter. I hold that against my wheel as I spray my Stoner tire dressing on there. Boom, no dressing on my nice clean rims!
 
owns 2023 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack Wide Body
#24 ·
Pinch, poke...

"Be careful not to get the dressing on the car or the wheel – particulary when using an aerosol spray."

I measured my rim size at the tire, and cut out a round shield from cardboard the same diameter. I hold that against my wheel as I spray my Stoner tire dressing on there. Boom, no dressing on my nice clean rims!
I had the same idea and cut out a couple of cardboard wheel covers myself for applying tire dressing. But it was aggravating to hold with one hand and try to spray dressing all the way around the tire and past that arm holding the cover, so I devised a solution - a bungee cord and a zip-tie (see attached pics).

Now, I can wrap the hooks around one of my wheel spokes and hook to each other, then cinch up the slack on the backside, and the cover will then stay in place over the wheel without me having to hold it.

It makes it much easier to apply the tire dressing evenly, for me anyway.

Nuke
 

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