Replace it.

 

Lois rough, replace it is my vote.

 

Ok, deal. I had a OEM lined up and went to buy (finally had the money) and found the price raised by $250, so looking at alternatives. Are there any to stay away from? Car will be street, could see a strip a few times but not often, V8 - gonna use right foot, but not abuse more than 'normal'. Found kit on Rockauto and eBay with bearings, slave, alignment tool, etc. Kicking myself for pulling the trigger yesterday for the Mopar on eBay for $625.xx

 

MMX sells OEMs for decent prices:
MMX clutch
You can find alignment tool for $5-10, there's some posts with a few options--but it's kinda hard to search for on google.

 

They are reasonable. Thanks! Thoughts on replacing the slave/bearing?

 

It's an option on that MMX listing, just check the box to add one.

 

does are take off crate motors

 

how crazy is that

mopar ships a gen III crate motor with a flywheel and a clutch?



oh yeah... sorry steve... ya cant call it a motor here unless it is electric

got some sticklers

some stiflers too : )

 

Got one ordered. Shipping is fierce but total is reasonable. New OEM, hard to beat that!

 

ok crate engine

 

Due to a GREAT deal of research, I have come to a couple conclusions IMHO: (for Hellcats)
A) Any, and I mean ANY clutch that has a pressure plate that is floated off of the flywheel by pillars of any height instead of bolting directly to the the actual body of the actual flywheel is to be avoided, hands down, without giving it a second look. They will go from functioning to being The Rattler, Clutch Version in short order.
B) Avoid McLeod. Bad reputation, much grief. Too heavy, overpriced, oversold. Their one claim to fame, of adding yet more weight to an existing flywheel by bolting another flywheel to it, is just laziness and marketing.
C) Avoid Mantic and Bad Boyzzz because of (A)
D) SPEC seems to be able to put together a clutch you will like. My preference would be non-organic friction pads on a sprung clutch disk.
E) I avoid any clutch disk or assembly that uses organic AND ceramic friction pads, also.

 

You'll want to get some of this: Sachs spline grease

 

we routinely sell and install

Mustang Clutch Kits and Mustang Performance Clutches - RAM Clutches

ramclutches.com

and we race with them,

 

I didn’t figure I’d be too far off base by going OEM, especially with a more powerful engine. I have the slave and pilot ordered for rock auto. It was the PD, which I was under the impression they made OEM. If not good I’ll return and get something else. Don’t really want to drop the trans again for some dumb failure like that.

Is there anything else I need to know before putting things together? TTY bolts, torque specs, do’s and donts? I’m planning to pull the front of the car and slide the whole engine/trans unit in, bolt and hook up the engine and attempt to fire it.

How do you check the oil in the transmission? Pull plug on side and stick a finger in? Since the oil had been drained from the engine I thought I should check and/or change oil in the trans too.

 

drain plug and fill plug, bottom and side, simply fill until it drips out of fill plug

 

I had the flywheel resurfaced today. Just to clean it up and make sure it’s not lumpy. They had to pull those pins out and damaged 2 of them. Any suggestions on getting a couple of these or what to use?

 

Thanks 2ndgen for the lead. Got some ordered. Do we use loctite on the bolts?

 

I've no idea what the manual says, but anything that spins, bumps, flexes, or otherwise moves it couldn't hurt to put some blue loctite on--so long as it doesn't mess up a tight-tolerance torque spec.

 

The new clutch from MMX showed up yesterday. I wish I’d waited before having the flywheel resurfaced. $80 shot. Ah well, maybe I can sell it on eBay. The new clutch came with the flywheel so problem solved. So far I’m impressed with that company. It’s rare anymore to get more than expected. 5 stars ⭐ ⭐⭐⭐⭐

⭐

 

The new clutch came with the flywheel so problem solved. So far I’m impressed with that company. It’s rare anymore to get more than expected. 5 stars ⭐ ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

I would hold off on the 5 stars until you give the clutch 5k miles....

 

So I found this in the trunk. Obviously need a seal. What would I even ask for at a dealer or online? Sure I can find the complete drive shaft but why would I want to pay $300 when all I need is a $5 rubber seal??

Edit: driveshaft boot. Found it.

 

I sure hope I didn’t get something defective. Supposed to be OEM. Says 6.4L on the box so hopefully it’s built a little heavier. I hope to start putting together this weekend if something doesn’t rob my time.

 

The 5.7 and 6.4 both use the same clutch: a Sachs 240mm twin disc. HC uses a Sachs 258mm twin disc. 26 spline input on both. (10 spline on the earliest model years)

alignment tool:

• 26 spline
• 1.125 diam.
• 0.750" pilot
• has to be long enough (the GM ones are too short)

RAM pn 5107
Centerforce pn 51075
McLeod pn 105313-M

 

The clutch in a Hellcat is a lot heavier. It might mess with folks who are dailying the car and aren't used to it. IMO, I wouldn't upgrade to a HC clutch in a car that doesn't need it.

 

But, it would last far longer and have more headroom for modifications.

 

I have all my pieces in for the clutch. Now a question. What is the best way to do the install? Remember the engine and transmission are both out of the car. I don’t want to put things together only to find I have to take apart because they won’t go in together. Thought about putting the FW, clutch and bell housing on then slide the transmission in under the car.

i originally was going to pull the radiator support but noticed a bunch of brake lines crossing so I’m kinda thinking maybe not. I could bleed but don’t know if they took something simple and complicated it somehow to need special equipment, dealer or something.

 

Standard brake system like any car.
If you do drain it, you'd probably want to be sure to cycle the ABS when you refill and bleed it--for which you need an OBD tool to run the procedure.