I can't wait to see this.. if it looks good I might have to have you do mine in translucent orange!

I think it's just a couple nuts but you have to pull back the inner fender liner to get to them.

 

Wish I knew but subscribed to see outcome

 

Not sure but, would think from inside the trunk, after pulling the side trunk linner.

 

Here is the removal procedure:

1. Open the fuel door and remove the cap. Very carefully unscrew the two fasteners securing the existing door. It is awfully close to the paintwork and it would be a shame to slip. If you're worried, tape the area with masking tape.
2. Carefully peel back the inner fender liner to gain access to the back side of the remaining fuel door "cup." The liner is made from flexible plastic so don't worry about bending it or breaking it. You may need a small screwdriver to pry the liner inward to initially get your fingers under the liner. Shove your arm up inside and feel around for four clips. From the front, looking at the door's chrome face, the clips are at the 11:30, 1:30, 5:00, and 7:00 o'clock positions. Depress the clips and pull and wiggle the fuel door with the door open. (Grabbing the open door gives you the needed leverage to wiggle things around.) You'll feel them let go one at a time. Grasp the "cup" from behind and push it outward. It just pops out
3. Then remove the gas cap and pull the door and rubber grommet assembly off the gas filler tube. The gas cap retaining lanyard simply pops off with a screwdriver.
4. Position the new fuel door assembly (from the outside) and simply snap it into place. There are no screws. Ensure the rubber grommet fits nicely over the fuel tube.
5. Reposition the fender liner and enjoy your new fuel door.

 

i never performed #1. I just started at #2. :shrug03:

 

There were no screws when I removed mine either. But, David, the door may not want to pull out easily after depressing the clips, and by the way you can depress two at a time and keep some outward pressure on the door till you depress the remaining two. After I did a couple of them I realized the rubber around the filler neck was sticking. If you can, find an appropriate plastic tool, try to work the rubbber outward over the opening of the filler neck before trying to release the clips and the door should pop off much easier.

 

No Screws in mine either!

I just found out that mine does not have those two screw either, thanks for the info you just gave me through, I really do appreciate it!

David in El Paso

 

We made it a 2 person job. one making sure there was slight pressure pulling out, so that the clips wouldnt re-seat, and the other reaching up to depress the clips. I think it was easier.

 

Thank you both Cuda340 & gtdrivr for posting that...:banger:

 

Just so you all know if your going to powdercoat your fuel door and it involves putting it in an oven to bake it you're going to need to take it completely apart, there are plastic grommets and little springs holding it all together and they will melt inside and you won't be able to open the door, you can take the plastic plunger off fairly easy but getting the chrome door separated from the chrome ring is a pain, do it in a room that has nothing in it because when you think you got it figured out and you go to separate the two parts the plastic grommets and this little spring will go shooting all over the place and you need to be able to find the parts because you cannot buy them from Dodge. I would go as far as suggesting doing it in an empty closet because the first time I did it it took me 2 hours to find the spring and 1 grommet, it was more than 30 ft from the table I was working at. Good Luck, if you totally lose the parts you will need to buy a new gas door. Another tip would be to tape the sides of the hinge area so you don't get a buildup of powder, it won't go back together otherwise, I think this is why Dodge gets 420.00 for the gloss black door in their parts dept.

 

I'll keep everyone updated!

I'll post a picture of the gas door (if I can fig. it out how to do that in this forum) but for now I've been working on my new wheels getting them ready for powder coating it has been taking me about 2.5 hours per wheel just to do the masking due to the fact that high-heat tape has no flexablity at all and doing curves is a pain I'll post pics of the wheels next week if everything goes as planned!

David in El Paso!

 

I've learn many things in the "School of Hard Knocks"

:bangin:Thanks for this info better to read it here than learn it through the School of Hard Knocks! I'll re-think this and worst case, I'll Paint it!

David

 

Thanks for the write up. We made it a 2 person job. Quick and easy!

 

subscribed so I can find it!