Oh definitely. That amp's made for running active. It's got built in DSP even if your deck didn't.
Here's a quick guide on setting up your 2 way +sub system actively. There are more detailed versions on car audio specific forums, but this will get you started.
Put your woofers on channels 3/4 and set the high pass for ~80 Hz to start. Set the low pass to around 2500-3000 Hz. Whatever it gives you for an option around there. Then run your tweeters on channels 1/2 and set the high pass filter for wherever the woofers are low passed. The lower you can get away with crossing your tweeters the higher your stage will seem. I recommended 2500-3000 as a starting point. Go lower if you can, but be careful about distortion. You can go lower if you have steeper crossover slopes (6 dB, 12 dB, 18 dB, 24 dB, etc.). I like steep slopes. It helps with imaging.
Start with a baseline for time alignment. Hop in the car with a tape measure. Sit exactly how you'll normally be listening to the system. If you only listen while driving, put your arms and legs where they'll be. If you spend time in your car just listening, you might want to position your knees and arms in different places. I do all the time. With your head in it's listening position take a tape measure and measure the distance from between your eyes to each component driver. My tendency here is to accidentally lean toward the center of the car more than I normally would and it will make a difference to be off by a few inches. Enter that in for the distance input on the time alignment for each. If your DSP doesn't do distances you can also do specific time delays. Let me know if that's the case and I can give you an equation to follow based on the speed of sound in air. Most these days are already in distance from the listener.
Not done yet. Grab a CD or some other high quality recording of a male vocalist that doesn't have a lot of instrumentation in the background. I've got an IASCA test disc with some excellent tracks on it, but I've also got a Zac Brown Band live album with a few quiet songs I've used before. Turn off subs and woofers. If you can't do that with software then turn the car off completely, no electrical activity, count to 10, and then unplug the RCAs from the amps. If your amps are on you can damage your RCA outputs on the head unit, even if there's no sound. Only plug in the tweeters. Wrap the unused RCAs in paper towels or clean rags. Don't let them touch metal when they're live. Now you're ready to hop back in the car, pop in the male vocalist, close your eyes, and point to where the sound is coming from. Be 100% honest with yourself. You're trying for the nub in the center of the dash where the center channel hole is. If you're left of that, you need to delay the left more. If you're right of that, you should delay the left less. Keep doing this with just the tweeters until you've got a stable image on top of (or behind) that nub. If you can't get it by adjusting the left, reset the left to your baseline measurement and make adjustments to the right. You might have a phase issue. If neither one of them sounds good no matter what you do, swap the positive and negative wires on both tweeters and start again with the baseline TA numbers. This is called flipping the speaker's polarity and causes a 180* phase shift. It won't hurt anything when done to speakers. It's one of the "oldest tricks in the book". It will hurt things with your amp's big power and ground wires, so don't switch those.
So one of those hopefully got you some good results with the tweeters. Now turn the car off completely, give it a 10 count again, unplug the tweeter RCAs and plug in the midbass RCAs. Do the same thing. These may or may not benefit from a polarity flip since they're mounted down in the doors. Sometimes flipping polarity brings the image up higher. Sometimes it just clouds up the image. Definitely try the midbass both ways. My 8" door midbasses are "in phase", but your case might be different. I've got a 3 way front.
After that, power down the car, plug in all RCAs including the sub. Play the male vocalist again and be impressed by the wonders of good time alignment for a few minutes. Then power the car down, flip the polarity on your sub(s), plug everything back in, and see if that got even better on the low end. Sub's polarity is a huge deal so try them both ways and see which one sounds more up front and blends better with your midbass. One will sound natural. The other will sound hollow. My subs are the only thing with reversed polarity in my system. Since you probably don't have TA ability on your sub amp just make sure you've got the phase set right.
So that's how you do basic crossover setup and intermediate polarity/phase and time alignment setup in a nutshell. Equalization is an art. I recommend a calibrated microphone if you're serious about the best results because even the best ears can fool you. If you have independant left/right EQ ability things can get really interesting here with band limited pink noise and fine listening, or full on measurement mic testing.
Damn. I didn't think I wrote that much. I try not to go off like that.
A few last minute pointers on TA. You can temporarily drop the high pass filter on the tweeters if it makes hearing the TA better. Just don't crank up the volume with them set low. Same goes for raising the midbass' low pass. The 1k-2k range is particularly sensitive to directional cues so it can make it easier for tweeters.
