Dodge Challenger Forum banner

Differences between 2010 and 2012 Challenger RT

15K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  deranged  
#1 ·
I am looking to get a Challenger RT with plans to do a bunch of mods to. Supercharger, exhaust, suspension, etc. I am looking at a 2010 for $26500 with 23k miles and a brand new 2012 for $28500. Are there any major differences between the 2 years besides the computer?

I would imagine I could get the price lower on the 2010 when I show them the price on the '12 but it would be nice to have a brand new one. Miss that new car smell.

Thanks for any advice you can give :)
 
#2 ·
The other item is the changes to the suspension:

*negative camber on front suspension
*more negative camber on rear
*changes in spring / shock tuning
*faster steering ratio on '11+ (electro-hydr. p/s on R/T)

the visual changes:
*steering wheel (smaller diameter, 3 spoke design, thicker rim)
*nose badge deleted
*Keyless Enter & Go door handles, trunk ('11+)
 
#16 ·
The other item is the changes to the suspension:

*negative camber on front suspension
*more negative camber on rear
*changes in spring / shock tuning
*faster steering ratio on '11+ (electro-hydr. p/s on R/T)

the visual changes:
*steering wheel (smaller diameter, 3 spoke design, thicker rim)
*nose badge deleted
*Keyless Enter & Go door handles, trunk ('11+)
...and to add to Hal's visual list - the 2012 has the "grimace" lower grille, where the 2010 has that "goofy smile".

2012

Image


2010

Image
 
#4 ·
For the $2k in price as much as I love my 2010 I'd say 2012 with a warranty is the way to go. Not sure how the supercharger idea will affect the warranty though? :dunno:
 
#6 ·
go wioth the 12. the engine is also different with the VVT. most of the cams out right now are only 08-10 bc of this. However with the new release of CMR tuning, we should see the market increase support for the 11+ regarding CAMS and SCs.
 
#8 ·
#11 ·
Well, think ahead if you need to sell or trade it in, the '12 will be worth alot more, plus i just like to start with my own car. That way you KNOW exactly when, where and what.
 
#12 ·
2010 was my favorite year for the R/T. I prefer the larger 4 spoke steering wheel, because I can rest my hand in the 6:00 position. Great for cruising around like that.

Also the 2010 had the BEST selection of colors available!

I understand the 2011+ suspension is slightly better, but if you get a 2010 with the super track pack you're good to go.

Didn't have to wait for tuning with the 2010, it was already there when the cars rolled out! :woot:
 
#13 ·
I am looking at a 2010 for $26500 with 23k miles and a brand new 2012 for $28500. Are there any major differences between the 2 years besides the computer?

Need more info on the 2010. Is it standard R/T or Classic? What color is it? Manual or auto? Fully optioned or ?? Does it have any mods to it, exhaust, cai, etc..

For 26500, you might be getting a great deal.
 
#14 ·
In addition to the already mentioned changes here are a few more:

Front lower grill is upside down on 11+
Heater / AC has thermostat, rather than hot/ cold (this is nice)
20" chrome clads are newer style. They're beveled on the edges.
Gauges are slightly different font.
Different door handles w/ lock button.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for all the info!! I really appreciate it! I went with a 2010 RT 6spd. Coilovers and sway bars will be first. Going through all the suspension posts now to decide which ones and what extra parts will be needed. Looking like either ST or BC so far.
 
#19 ·
Wise choice grasshoppah. Best year IMHO. Sorted out-bugs wise, but still raw enough to give an old school feel. See mods, do mods. Great starting point to improve the turning left and right stuff. :browsmiley:

Heads up, if the ECM has never been reflashed by the dealer-NEVER LET THE DEALER DO IT!
 
#17 ·
Matches my grin!