[Trickster729]

Trick, good to know the Pioneer does the job. Just in case I get different results, I have a 10" cube enclosure from a prior car that I can easily swap in, but I really want to avoid sticking a box in my trunk. I'm not looking to blow the doors out with bass anyway, just some low end fill.

Wiring codes? I avoid that issue (and avoid cutting factory wires too) with a small compromise. I cut into my Metra harnesses, run the input side back to the trunk along with return runs back to the speaker. Yeah, with the factory wiring, plus wiring from each speaker to the trunk and back I've got longer runs. But I'm boosting the signal through an AudioControl LC7i and the Alpine amps I'm putting in are certified for actual power at ~20% over published specs, so I should not have any meaningful degradation. Besides my 52 year old ears are not what they used to be, thanks in part from other systems I've had over the years.

You're right about these old ears (56)...I had to rewire because that damn headunit didn't have any RCA in or outputs....so I had to use a PAC SNI-35 line out converter. And being that I was using the Clarion EQS746, all I need was the front speaker hook up because the EQ converts everything into 4 channels plus a subwoofer. ....so all of my speakers were rewired to the amp and the rest is history. (Well, a little more details but you know....lol)

 

[15RT]

So glad to see this thread is still getting action. You guys are so right about factory systems being pretty much crap.

I wouldn't call the 2015 Alpine system crap (can't speak for prior years), but my point is if I want something more than the base system I'm going to the aftermarket rather than paying the OEM for a nominal upgrade. The power and resulting dynamics and headroom are not there, but the factory Alpine system is pretty clean.

My upgrades which includes 6 speakers (Alpine, JL) , a sub (Pioneer), 2 amps (Alpine) an active LOC (AudioControl LC7i), wiring, interconnects, etc is costing me around $900 and I am more than confident will blow away the slightly lower cost SGII or the slightly higher cost HK system once I'm done.

Of course and to be fair, I'm doing the install myself and saving a few hundred there
I should have my affirmation this weekend :grin2:

 

[Indeva]

So the center speaker in the dash is 3.5" just like the left and right dash? Any ideas on the small speakers in the rear sail panel? They look like they might be 3.5" as well.

Yes, to clarify the factory SGII includes for:
(2) 3.5" in the dash
(2) 6x9" in the doors
(2) 3.5" in the rear sail panels
(2) 6.5" in the rear deck lid
(1) 8" sub in the rear deck lid

 

[dodgetimes2]

Looking at this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNk9REkNNyM) that has a printout from TechConnect it shows there's a 3.5" in the center of the dash as well. Can anybody confirm this?

 

[Indeva]

Yes, there is a 3rd 3.5" in the center of the dash. For what it is worth, it runs on half the power of the 3.5" in the corner of the dash.

I disconnected it and upgraded the corner 3.5".

 

[Indeva]

Updated:
The factory SGII includes for:
(3) 3.5" in the dash
(2) 6x9" in the doors
(2) 3.5" in the rear sail panels
(2) 6.5" in the rear deck lid
(1) 8" sub in the rear deck lid

 

[Indeva]

2015 SGII Upgrade

First off, I must give credit to 15RT for his thorough step by step post. I followed his steps for the dash and rear deck. Please note that I did not upgrade the 6x9 door speakers.
With that being said, here is my 2015 SGII upgrade. I have $636 into this system. You could save a few $ if you go with a cheaper sub.
The 2015 SGII has the following factory installed speakers:

• (3) 3.5” speakers in the dash
• (2) 6x9” speakers in the doors
• (2) 3.5” speakers in the rear armrest/sail panels
• (2) 6.5” speakers in the rear deck lid
• (1) 8” DVC subwoofer in the rear deck lid

I purchased the following part #’s.

• (1) Metra 71-039C for the 3.5” speakers. I too could only find these from Crutchfield.
• (1) Metra 72-6514 for the rear 6.5” speakers.
• (3) Infinity 3002CFX. These are the 3.5” speakers. You will need to buy 3 sets, or disconnect the center dash speaker and run only 2 sets. FYI, the center dash speaker runs on ½ the power of the two side speakers in the dash. Upgrade at your own discretion.
• (1) Infinity 6032CF. These are the 6.5” speakers.
• (1) R500X1D Mono Amp.
• (1) 12TW1-4 subwoofer.
• (1) Sheet of ¾” MDF wood from local hardware store.

First off, the reason why I went with Infinity Reference loud speakers is that they are 3 Ohm speakers. When connected to the factory thin wiring, the Head Unit registers the speakers as 4 ohm. Without any scientific data to prove this, I gained approximately 15-20% in clean volume without modifying the factory power. Here is a little fun fact, even though my door panels have the “Alpine” badge, every speaker I pulled from the car had Chrysler written on it…
Ok, on to the install. Follow 15RT dash install. Pull the plastic trim piece, pull the 2 bolts/screws, and disconnect the factory wiring clips. Here is where I got cheap, I bought 1 set of the Metra 71-039C connectors then color coded the factory wiring for all 3.5” speakers. Then I cut and crimped connectors to the factory wires instead of buying another $20 bucks in connectors. Decide if you want to replace or disconnect the center dash speaker as it runs on ½ the power of the 2 corner speakers. Once connections have been made, re-install using the factory bolts/screws.
I skipped the doors because the 6x9” run low pass only.
Follow 15RT recommendations for the rear deck lid. The rear armrest/sail panels have a 3.5” speaker that is screwed into the panel from the back side. Carefully pry the panel away from the car until all snap pins have been released. There is a screw that is found under the factory sill guards on the backside. Pull the sill guards and remove this screw before pulling the sail panels. The sail panels will pull away about a foot, which game me enough room to unscrew the (2) factory screws that hold the 3.5” speaker to the panels. Once replaced, leave the panels resting against the car and pull the rear deck lid down to give access to the rear deck lid. My amp came with a remote gain; I suggest you run that wire before putting your panels back on.
Follow 15RT recommendations for the rear deck lid. Remove the factory 6.5” and the 8” sub. The 6.5” speakers where the hardest install as the factory speakers are closer to 7”. I had to cut a sheet metal adapter for the 6.5”. Remove and cut the two subwoofer wires. The green wires for the sub are positive. Crimp (2) speaker wires leads to each set of factory subwoofer wires. These two leads will run to the mono amp. Reinstall the rear deck lid and all panels.
Onto the trunk portion. Completely remove the trunk cover to give access to the spare tire well. My car did not come with a spare tire, so this area was best served for a sub box. I built a sub box with outside dimensions of 26”x14”x6” out of ¾” MDF. I bought the MDF sheet from a local hardware store and had them cut most of the pieces while I was there. I donated the rest of the wood. This box left me enough room to wrap a towel around the air pump and store it next to the sub box (those cups are for closing the headlight air intake while at the carwash).
The amp is so small that I mounted it to the side of the sub box. However I’m having a difficult time tuning the amp because I have to pull the sub box each time so keep that in mind when mounting your amp. I bought a 4 gauge amp wire install kit. You only need 4’ of wire though and a fuse. I connected the amp remote wire to one of the ignition wires that run along the main harness from the battery. The amp came with a remote bass gain that I ran to the driver’s seat. The amp also came with High input wires. Run the (2) speaker wire sets from the factory sub directly into the high input wires on the amp. The factory sub was DVC, so you will get (2) single inputs acting as the left/right input into the amp.
Mount the sub box once all 4 corners are touching the bottom metal of the spare tire well. Again, this left me enough room to mount the amp to the top of the box before I mounted the box.
Conclusion: This is how the factory SGII should have been :grin2:. The factory EQ is now set to Bass 0, Mid +2, Treble 0. The factory HU was over tuned on the treble side due to lack of tweeters IMO. I’ve gained 15-20% in crystal clear sound volume. I run an iPod through the USB and volume 25 is now loud, 28 starts to hurt, and 30+ will cause crystal clear hearing damage real quick. The remote subwoofer gain is a must! Whether I’m listening to Boston, Metallica or the wife’s R&B crud, it takes ½ of a second to adjust the bass accordingly. Also, surprisingly the bass does not drop with increased volume. I was afraid that the factory HU would lower the sub signal with increased volume but that is not the case. The best part aside from how well it sounds is that you cannot see the sub when I open the trunk. This system sounds almost as good as the full $2,000.00 MB Quart system I ran 6 years ago back when MB was still German made.
Lastly, I built the box during the week. Therefore I only had 3 hours into the entire installation for all speakers including the amp and sub. I will note that the rear tray no longer rattles…I still haven’t mounted the remote bass; I wrapped it in black carpet and wedged it between the seat and center console while I determine the best mounting spot. I might just leave it there though.

 

[15RT]

Indeva, great addition to the thread. There are a lot of SGII owners out there who I'm sure will benefit from your work & pointers.

I also made use of the spare well by mounting my amp rack down below, but that left no room for my sub.

 

[stealthmouse]

Well done. I think that is the best set of photos I've ever seen in a car DIY. Just got my beast and I'm already Jonesin' for my MB Quart speakers and Zapco amp. Fortunately, the Challenger does have a solid head unit, and though I have a subwoofer I could add, I'm a bit concerned, with the car's existing formidable bass output, that it will shake so hard that nothing will be left but metal shavings.

Thanks for saving me literally hours of toying with panels and frames, and the trepidation that I might break an irreplaceable grommet somewhere. Excellent!

 

[Doc Fluty]

I was thinking of pulling the trigger on a set of JL c5-653

However, they have a 4" woofer for the mids... do you thikn that would still fit be able to massage into the stock 3.5" dash location?

I was thinking of mounting the tweeter in the a-pillar and the mid bass in the doors for a nice 3 piece set up... do you think the 4" woofer would fit.. it measure at the outside diameter at 100mm?

 

[Indeva]

I was thinking of pulling the trigger on a set of JL c5-653

However, they have a 4" woofer for the mids... do you thikn that would still fit be able to massage into the stock 3.5" dash location?

I was thinking of mounting the tweeter in the a-pillar and the mid bass in the doors for a nice 3 piece set up... do you think the 4" woofer would fit.. it measure at the outside diameter at 100mm?

You will have to bust out the dremel. The 3.5" that I put in were tight, but a right angle drill could open up the holes a bit. It only takes 5 minutes to pull the dash apart to test fit a 4" speaker.

 

[Hazardous]

Many thanks to 15RT for posting the outstanding instructions along with the pictures and explaining the harnesses required to plug-and-play the speakers in these awesome rides.

I took the plunge and purchased upgraded speakers from Crutchfield. I wasn't looking to go big bucks on this one but definitely wanted an improvement over the factory setup. All in so far I spent less than $200.

Dash: Kicker 41DSC354 3-1/2" 2-Way Speakers
Doors: Kicker 41DSC6934 6" x 9" 3-Way Speakers
Rear Deck: Kicker 41DSC654 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers with Scosche SAC656 Speaker Adapter.

I installed the dash speakers tonight with very few issues. Previously owning an early 2000's Jeep, getting to these speakers is a piece of cake in comparison.
The one issue I did have was with the clips in the A Pillars. I had no problems taking them out but for some reason I had a some difficulty getting them to go back in. I almost broke one of them in the process.

Although the stock speakers are far and away better than the bottom of the rung factory speaker i've ran into in the past, the new speakers in the dash already sound 100 times better.

Taking the others one at a time as the temperature here in South Carolina is freaking hot as a firecracker on the 4th of July.

After the speakers I plan to look at a processor so that I can determine what frequencies go where.

 

[car68]

8 inch sub swap

has anyone tried just swapping out the 8 inch sub? does it help much if I just put in the pioneer one that is recommended on here? Do i have to install an extra amp etc? just want a bit more punchy bass

 

[Hazardous]

Installed the rear deck speakers tonight but in the process I busted one of the fir tree pins. Any ideas on how to obtain a replacement for one of these?

 

[dodgetimes2]

Installed the rear deck speakers tonight but in the process I busted one of the fir tree pins. Any ideas on how to obtain a replacement for one of these?

I've bought them at Autozone before.

 

[Hazardous]

I've bought them at Autozone before.

Thanks I'll check em out.

 

[murderedRT]

Right now I want to put all Infinity Reference X(Harmon Kardon) speakers for the car, including the 8" sub in the rear deck. I want to install the factory 368 watt amp to make use of the factory harnesses. But can't find the harnesses anywhere. Does anyone know if they're already in the car? I've looked through all the diagrams, and as far as I can tell all the 2014 wiring harnesses included all the wiring for the 18 speaker premium systems. Just didn't include the amps, or speakers on certain cars.

Not really looking for a thumping system. Just want much better sound than the 6 speaker setup that didn't come with an amp.

 

[goldenrichard]

Replacements for trunk-mounted subs for 2015 HK system

I have a 2015 SRT 392 with the HK system. I'm currently replacing the stock speakers (thanks for the awesome thread--very helpful) with Infinity Reference series to see how far I can get before I find I must break down and have a DSP installed.

I'm now looking at the subs. Has anyone done any research on:

o roughly how much power is going to the dual sub box in the back, next to the tire pump?

o aftermarket subwoofers with specs that are compatible with the volume available in the under-the-mat enclosure? I'd rather give this replacement option the best chance of success by choosing subs that will be as happy as possible in the available space, rather than ad hoc selections based on price or other factors. I'm essentially hoping there are lurkers who have already experimented. If not, I'm happy to get the research going.

If the box is truly underpowered, in the future I will consider adding another amp, but I'd like for the subs to stay where they are, because I can't (essentially, won't) sacrifice any trunk space for another enclosure.

Motivation: Improve the bottom end and tighten things up. I don't need a rear mirror shaking monster for my purposes.

Thanks, all!

--Golden

 

[moparSRT]

I'm not sure I see what you guys hear cause my Mirrors shake and this HK system has great sound.

 

[SublimeScat15]

I have a 2015 SRT 392 with the HK system. I'm currently replacing the stock speakers (thanks for the awesome thread--very helpful) with Infinity Reference series to see how far I can get before I find I must break down and have a DSP installed.

I'm now looking at the subs. Has anyone done any research on:

o roughly how much power is going to the dual sub box in the back, next to the tire pump?

o aftermarket subwoofers with specs that are compatible with the volume available in the under-the-mat enclosure? I'd rather give this replacement option the best chance of success by choosing subs that will be as happy as possible in the available space, rather than ad hoc selections based on price or other factors. I'm essentially hoping there are lurkers who have already experimented. If not, I'm happy to get the research going.

If the box is truly underpowered, in the future I will consider adding another amp, but I'd like for the subs to stay where they are, because I can't (essentially, won't) sacrifice any trunk space for another enclosure.

Motivation: Improve the bottom end and tighten things up. I don't need a rear mirror shaking monster for my purposes.

Thanks, all!

--Golden

There is a thread on here somewhere where a guy replaced the subs with some different ones and put them in the same location under the floor. He also added an amp to it as well. No trunk space sacrificed.

Edit: here is the link to that thread. http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350330